I was recently gifted a Fart Box PCB and I’m now in the process of ordering some components I don’t have on hand. I noticed that the BOM specifies ceramic capacitors for the non-polarized capacitors; I have some of the values on hand in ceramic, but I have a couple of the listed values in film capacitors (left over from building the Twin T).
Is there any particular reason not to use film capacitors in this circuit? I remember, for example, that film capacitors were recommended in the Twin T build as ceramics created noise in the circuit.
Okay, so. Following up on this; I don’t have an LED pushbutton, but I do have a momentary button and I have lots of LEDs. Would wiring an LED and a standard momentary pushbutton work? Looking at some of the other builds I’ve seem I’m thinking this would be the way to wire it up, but I’m not sure:
Thanks! I noticed that for all the two pin molex connections they’re arranged with a round and a square pad. Looking at the PCB it seems like the round connections are going to ground, but - again - I’m not sure.
I had downloaded the schematics from Patreon about a year ago (that is when I started building it) and they seem to be out of date. There is no front panel wiring and it is slightly different from the fart box 1.0 veroboard layout.
give it 20 mins itll be on the fart box page of the website. good to get it fixed. it is somewhere on this forum. i cant remember, i have put it on here a few times. but to save confusement. check the site in 20 mins
Thanks very much! The panel is 1.5mm black anodised aluminium, with the lettering / graphical elements cut on a CNC router with tiny 0.4mm cutter. The cutter has a flat profile, i.e. isn’t a V-shaped engraving tool, and cuts a tiny amount into the surface. Just enough to take the black layer off - something like 0.05 or 0.10mm.
The crucial bit is making sure the CNC bed is accurately flat - I usually take a skim off with a big 50mm cutter before getting started, to make sure the bed is level.
The holes and perimeter are then cut with a 3mm cutter, and the edges folded on a folding machine.
Fantastic, thanks so much for taking the time to make that video. I’ll definitely change that diode if the problem appears again in future. Just watched your Geiger module video too - nice idea to include an output with envelopes, and thanks for mentioning the Nervous Squirrel module!
Anyone know which resistor on the PCB version of this is for the pushbutton LED? On the schematic it’s listed as R63, but I am not confident that matches up with the PCB or if that schematic pre-dates it.
I cannot for the life of me get the LED in the pushbutton to brighten. It lights up, but is super dim no matter what size/color LED i put in. Jumpering the 1k R63 didn’t make a difference.
I created this to help me dubug my second FartBox. Oszilator 1&2 got mixed up in the annotaion but otherwise it matches the shematic. R63, the one you are hunting did not get “assigned” to a functionality group, i missed it. maybe it helps.
