I probably just need to pull the board out and eyeball the trace from the LED pins. I’m just lazy and don’t want to take all my knobs off the remove the PCB from the enclosure. I also sort of hoped there might be a more up to date schematic floating around somewhere.
it is R63, verified the traces on a spare board. Did you wire the button direct or molex?
Molex, but I’m not testing with the connector. For now I’ve got direct wires on the pins going to a socket that I can try out various LEDs with - so I can find the best option. If it’s r63 I’m very puzzled by the fact that jumping that resistor made zero difference in the brightness of any of these LEDs.
So issue #1 is that this image from earlier in the thread wasn’t correct. At least on my board. After pulling the board and looking at the traces myself, 3 & 4 are the LED pins and 1 & 2 go to the trigger/gate circuit.
However, I’ve got less than 1v and negligible current on the actual LED pins so I’m not any further along. I’ve just gone over the entire board with a magifying glass just to ensure the solder joints all look good. I even swapped the op-amp that outputs into the button LED just to be sure it wasn’t bad. I haven’t adjusted the trim pots yet, but I can’t see how that would affect anything in this area at all, so I’m not focusing on that yet. The other two osc LEDs seem to be working just fine.
Is your attack all the way counter clockwise?
Each time I test I move all the knobs to their extremes as well as manually trigger the button. I’ll repeat the test and focus on the attack though.
Didn’t make a difference. Voltage actually seems to go negative about -0.03v at its extreme when I turn the filter mod env though. Zero current
Edit: the cutoff is what makes it swing positive/negative
solved my LED issue. In addition to the image earlier in this thread being incorrect, I had also done some dumbassery and reversed D2.
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Someone needs to invent unpolarized diodes.
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I tried. Apparently there’s more to it than pure brute force.
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