I probably just need to pull the board out and eyeball the trace from the LED pins. I’m just lazy and don’t want to take all my knobs off the remove the PCB from the enclosure. I also sort of hoped there might be a more up to date schematic floating around somewhere.
it is R63, verified the traces on a spare board. Did you wire the button direct or molex?
Molex, but I’m not testing with the connector. For now I’ve got direct wires on the pins going to a socket that I can try out various LEDs with - so I can find the best option. If it’s r63 I’m very puzzled by the fact that jumping that resistor made zero difference in the brightness of any of these LEDs.
So issue #1 is that this image from earlier in the thread wasn’t correct. At least on my board. After pulling the board and looking at the traces myself, 3 & 4 are the LED pins and 1 & 2 go to the trigger/gate circuit.
However, I’ve got less than 1v and negligible current on the actual LED pins so I’m not any further along. I’ve just gone over the entire board with a magifying glass just to ensure the solder joints all look good. I even swapped the op-amp that outputs into the button LED just to be sure it wasn’t bad. I haven’t adjusted the trim pots yet, but I can’t see how that would affect anything in this area at all, so I’m not focusing on that yet. The other two osc LEDs seem to be working just fine.
Is your attack all the way counter clockwise?
Each time I test I move all the knobs to their extremes as well as manually trigger the button. I’ll repeat the test and focus on the attack though.
Didn’t make a difference. Voltage actually seems to go negative about -0.03v at its extreme when I turn the filter mod env though. Zero current
Edit: the cutoff is what makes it swing positive/negative
solved my LED issue. In addition to the image earlier in this thread being incorrect, I had also done some dumbassery and reversed D2.
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Someone needs to invent unpolarized diodes.
2 Likes
I tried. Apparently there’s more to it than pure brute force.
3 Likes
Hey,
Have started with ordering all components to build the Fart Box (which was a bit of an job in it is own). So like to share here the order list in multiple formats to share the effort.
The AS 3044 chip is not available in Tayda, so that still needs can be ordered somewhere else:
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/savecartpro/index/savenewquote/qid/57853939731
Or for copy pasting into the quick order option:
qty,sku,name
15,A-7637,RESISTORS 100k R19 R52 R53 R20 R43 R42 R54 R29 R55 R21 R56 R41 R40 R45 R39
13,A-7636, 10k R25 R28 R14 R12 R16 R30 R49 R15 R27 R23 R64 R59 R57 R58
3,A-3408, 20k R10 R9 R51 R17
4,A-2246, 220R R24 R11 R8 R26
4,A-3777, 1.8k R2 R44 R38 R13
2,A-3418, 470k R18 R22
2,A-3458, 24k R34 R4
2,A-2351, 5K6 R35 R6
2,A-2151, 1M R33 R46
5,A-2265, 470r R32 R1 R7 R36 R50
2,A-2753, 680R R62 R5
1,A-3855, 1.5M R3
2,A-2123, 1k R65 R5
1,A-3413, 47k R37
1,A-2726, 18k R47
1,A-3431, 82k R48
11,A-2907, VARIABLE RESISTORS 100k
11,A-5527, dust cover
2,A-1157, 1M Attack Release
1,A-2511, 4.7k Cutoff
2,A-7738, 20k Trimmer
2,A-7740, 100k Trimmer
3,A-557, CAPACITORS 1nf C6 C16 C2
1,A-568, 470nf C9
1,A-413, 4.7nf C8
3,A-564, 100nf C7 C1 C15
4,A-559, 10nf C10 C3 C11 C12
2,A-4554, 10uf C4 C5
2,A-3933, 4700uf C18 C17
2,A-8508, 1uf C14
6,A-156, DIODES 1N4004 D10 D11 D14 D12 D13 D9
8,A-157, 1N4148 D1 D2 D8 D7 D16 D3 D4 D15
2,A-8000, LED D6 D5
1,A-207, VOLTAGE REGULATORS L7812 U8
1,A-505, L7912 U9
3,A-037, INTEGRATED CIRCUITS TL072 U7 U4 U3
1,A-1138, TL074 U5
1,A-900, LM13700 U6 missing 2 AS3340 U1 U2
2,A-143, TRANSISTORS BC558 Q1 Q2
1,A-8369, BC107 Q3
6,A-4567, SWITCHES SPDT (On-Off-On) SW2 SW1 SW5 SW3 SW4 SW6
5,A-5773, MISCELLANEOUS 2pin Header J2 J3 J5 J4 J1
1,A-7565, 4pin Header J6
1,A-7427, Big Button
4,A-7896, I/O Jacks
4,A-7899, Jack Nuts
1,A-4118, Power Jack
5,A-8498, 37mm knobs
9,A-5965, 30mm knobs
3 Likes
Welcome @mich!
Thanks for your lists. Do take a look in the DIY section or use the search function to track down BOMs for other modules. There are many here who have shared their basket list or orders from a number of suppliers. Keep us posted and let us know how you get on.
Get building!
2 Likes
I received the components, so excited. But I also see now that some components don’t exactly fit the PCB. To start I see that the potentimeters are too big……to be continued…….
Not sure if there is a way to update my previous post to add a warning.
100K OHM Linear Taper Potentiometer Round Shaft PCB 9mm
i think those are the one fitting the footprint
2 Likes
Revision 2:
A new Tayda quick order list with some corrections for issues encountered when mounting the parts in the fart box V1.2:
qty,sku,name
15,A-7637,RESISTORS 100k R19 R52 R53 R20 R43 R42 R54 R29 R55 R21 R56 R41 R40 R45 R39
13,A-7636, 10k R25 R28 R14 R12 R16 R30 R49 R15 R27 R23 R64 R59 R57 R58
3,A-3408, 20k R10 R9 R51 R17
4,A-2246, 220R R24 R11 R8 R26
4,A-3777, 1.8k R2 R44 R38 R13
2,A-3418, 470k R18 R22
2,A-3458, 24k R34 R4
2,A-2351, 5K6 R35 R6
2,A-2151, 1M R33 R46
5,A-2265, 470r R32 R1 R7 R36 R50
2,A-2753, 680R R62 R5
1,A-3855, 1.5M R3
2,A-2123, 1k R65 R5
1,A-3413, 47k R37
1,A-2726, 18k R47
1,A-3431, 82k R48
11,A-4729, VARIABLE RESISTORS 100k REV2: replacing too big A-2907
11,A-5527, dust cover
2,A-8005, 1M Attack Release REV2: replacing too big A-1157
1,A-6139, 4.7k Cutoff REV2: replacing too big A-2511
2,A-7738, 20k Trimmer
2,A-7740, 100k Trimmer
3,A-557, CAPACITORS 1nf C6 C16 C2
1,A-568, 470nf C9
1,A-413, 4.7nf C8
3,A-564, 100nf C7 C1 C15
4,A-559, 10nf C10 C3 C11 C12
2,A-4554, 10uf C4 C5
2,A-3933, 4700uf C18 C17
2,A-8508, 1uf C14
6,A-156, DIODES 1N4004 D10 D11 D14 D12 D13 D9
8,A-157, 1N4148 D1 D2 D8 D7 D16 D3 D4 D15
2,A-8000, LED D6 D5
1,A-207, VOLTAGE REGULATORS L7812 U8
1,A-505, L7912 U9
3,A-037, INTEGRATED CIRCUITS TL072 U7 U4 U3
1,A-1138, TL074 U5
1,A-900, LM13700 U6 missing 2 AS3340 U1 U2
2,A-143, TRANSISTORS BC558 Q1 Q2
1,A-8369, BC107 Q3
6,A-4567, SWITCHES SPDT (On-Off-On) SW2 SW1 SW5 SW3 SW4 SW6
5,A-5773, MISCELLANEOUS 2pin Header J2 J3 J5 J4 J1
1,A-7565, 4pin Header J6
1,A-7427, Big Button R2: THIS IS NOT SO BIG
4,A-7896, I/O Jacks R2: DONT FIT!!! TOBE REPLACED
4,A-7899, Jack Nuts
1,A-4118, Power Jack
5,A-8498, 37mm knobs
9,A-5965, 30mm knobs
Seems the correct footprint but 6.35mm shaft.
I assume it is not compatible with the 6mm knobs.
I am creating a new list with some revisions and added now
100K OHM Anti-Log Taper Potentiometer Spline Shaft PCB Mount 9mm there which I hope the PCB and the knob fits.
be carefull about the “Anti-Log”, i don’t remember what type is required on each position of the FartBox but the “Lin” type is the more common.
[(Anti)Lin/Log] describe the travel direction and steepnes of value change.
1 Like
Thanks, updated list now with A-4729
ive almost finished my fart box build but im yet to buy a power supply. ac/ac power supplies seem to be few and far between but I found one for a reasonable price from cpc farnell. just wondering what the amperage needs to be cus this one is 500mA. (im assuming that is enough but maybe its a super power hungry design!)