Look at the datasheet. AIZ versus DIZ are different tolerances, the AIZ is more precise.
You got it backwards, the LMNC VCO specifies AIZ and the wave shaper specifies DIZ. The VCO uses a trim pot to set the voltage reference so the tighter tolerance of AIZ really isn’t required, a DIZ should work fine. Of course an AIZ can always substitute for a DIZ.
Added: Oh, and the 4.1 means 4.1 volts, the 10 means 10 volts. For a voltage reference, that difference is kinda important.
thank you sharing your time / retirement with us , your knowledge and just plain not being lazy and looking things up LOL has been a help to everyone here for sure ! . I know there are others who help but you really stand out . on behalf of everyone here THANK YOU Richard .
Agreed. Thanks muchly for all you do!
And thanks in advance for all of the waveshaper questions ill likely be bothering you with soon - consider this a preemptive apology.
After a lot of wrestling with the 3d printed rails, I have pretty much thrown in the towel in trying to fix them. I did a lot of clamping and heat gun usage… but they are pretty far gone.
I broke down and ordered some rails from mouser.
In the meantime I think I’ll build an APCx3
Psst: have you tried wooden rails and velcro?
It pains me to say but its just not worth the effort to try and fix at this time. I’ll keep them around for a bit longer in case I change my mind but I might just mark this up as a painful and expensive learning experience.
I have moved on a little bit - rails, nuts, and knurlies have all arrived from the various corners of the earth.
I printed some brackets to hold the rails - but did not consider the clearance that the knurlies require to slide past each other. Thankfully the brackets are a miniscule print and the ‘bad’ prints can actually still be used to hold other rails later.
I ordered a few more boards from sam - including the spring reverb! - but like a dummy, forgot to add one of the simple mixers as I intended to. I guess it will have to be ordered if/when the mega drone comes back in stock!
Build update! In video format this time.
Don’t mind the dirty workbench!
On a scale of one to ten (ten being excellent and one being plonker), how good of an idea is it to plug an LED lightstrip into the same FC Routemaster as my modules?
1 if you try it and it works, 5 if you try it and it doesn’t, 10 if you don’t .
You may find you have more power available on the negative rail, as most modules have a lower -12v requirement, just mind the polarity.
So it turns out that plugging the LED strip directly into the power supply is not a good idea. The fluctuations were crazy extreme. No harm done and now I know!
Meanwhile I have a couple of big part orders coming in and a big 3d print job in the works. Very excited for the next project to finish up - hopefully it comes out as well as I have it pictured in my head.
I’ve been working away at a beast of a project - My Kosmo Format Typhoon.
I was going to wait a bit longer before writing about it since it is still a bit janky - but sam mentioned clouds on the last live stream so I thought I would post about it here.
While there is a pcb available to build one yourself - it is all SMD. I decided to go the second hand route to see how much easier/harder it would be to convert one that was already built. I found a calsynth typhoon on reverb for about 180$ and decided to pull the trigger. I received it in short order and it all seemed in working order when I plugged it in. I immediately ran into testing issues since almost all of my cables are 1/4 inch - and getting a left and right plugged in at the same time with adapters in was out of the question.
The module was pretty dirty - perhaps indicating that it had been well loved in its previous life. The slide pots in particular were quite hairy. I went about the arduous process of de-soldering twenty audio jacks, four illuminated slide pots, seven panel mount pots, five tactile switch push buttons, sixteen LED’s, and one super odd illuminated push button. It took a good long while and along the way I did manage to scratch the panel and cut some traces.
I designed and printed up a face plate for it. This was the first time I attempted to put text on the design right off the bat and it worked… sort of ok. The lettering really started to break down and get hard to read at the smaller sizes, so I’m not sure if I’ll keep using this method.
After a few weeks of plugging away at it, it works! For the most part. The most glaring problem right now is the lack of a Mix knob. I need to bypass the trace to fix it (I think). The CV control over the freeze button and the LED indicator for the density slide pot suffered the same fate (I think). Hopefully I can fix those as well.
The other big problem right now is my normal-ing issues. One of the fun things and I think one of the big draws for the Typhoon is the AUX input, which is a CV input that basically controls everything that does not already have an input modulating it. Currently ALL of the inputs involved act that way. So one thing plugged into any of the inputs that are supposed to be normaled controls everything. My guess is I have a fundamental misunderstanding of how all of those jack sockets need to be wired up.
Got the Reverb and Oscillator modules mostly built - funny to think after all this time I have not built a proper oscillator. Finished the VCADSR and I am now wondering how I managed to live without it all this time.
I might have royaly borked my Typhoon so I am putting it to the side and working on easier projects for a little while. It is nice to have some things working the first time you plug them in.
In other strange news I have been organizing a community game night at a retrofitted church - it has a fully functioning pipe organ and they need someone to figure out the bell control system.
It’s good to put something to one side, and do something else, allows the mind to calm down and ideas and options often spring up whilst not focusing.
Rob
I was digging around for bits and bobs that I thought would be fun to have and two things spring to mind that I have not seen in other places:
K25 Voltage Controlled Glide
electro-music.com wiki | Schematics / Voltage Controlled Glide
K25 Dual end of cycle / end of rise
I have yet to find any example schematics for this just yet. Will keep looking.
What does “2.5K” refer to?
Am I misunderstanding something or are end of cycle / end of rise just comparators with low and high thresholds? If so they shouldn’t be very complicated. In my version of the Kassutronics Precision ADSR there’s an end of cycle comparator that retriggers the envelope in loop mode. There’s also the YuSynth Comparators module.
I think of the tiny modules as 2.5K I am getting them mixed up with K25 (Which makes more sense!)
And yes - that Kassutronics one looks exactly the trick! I’ll have to poke around the schematics a little bit. I’m just wondering if it makes more sense to be an end of cycle gate signal instead of a pulse and what would be more useful.
I’m also wondering if a pass through would be required so that it would be a bit more useful.
