Here’s a dual quantizer, Arduino based, multiple scale choices:
A separate module, you can run the sequencer through it. Or maybe you can use it as a basis for a quantized sequencer design.
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Hey @analogoutput
I just updated my code (was using a much earlier build from you). Seems to be stuck on step 1 as if reset or step button 1 was being held high.
I noticed in your code you said you had a funky order for your pins?
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Pin order in the software posted in GitHub:
#define STEP1 2 // D2
#define STEP2 3 // D3
#define STEP3 4 // D4
#define STEP4 5 // D5
#define STEP5 6 // D6
#define STEP6 7 // D7
#define STEP7 8 // D8
#define STEP8 9 // D9
#define RESET 10 // D10
#define ZERO 11 // D11
#define FORW 12 // D12
#define BACK 13 // D13
#define ROTARY 14 // A0; read as analog
#define BUTTON1 10 // D10; same as RESET (same action)
#define BUTTON2 15 // A1; read as digital
#define BUTTON3 16 // A2; read as digital
#define BUTTON4 17 // A3; read as digital
#define BUTTON5 18 // A4; read as digital
#define BUTTON6 19 // A5; read as digital
#define BUTTON7 A6 // A6; must be read as analog
#define BUTTON8 A7 // A7; must be read as analog
Pin order the way I built it:
#define STEP1 9
#define STEP2 8
#define STEP3 7
#define STEP4 6
#define STEP5 5
#define STEP6 4
#define STEP7 3
#define STEP8 2
#define RESET 10
#define ZERO 11
#define FORW 12
#define BACK 13
#define ROTARY A7
#define BUTTON1 10 // same as RESET (same action)
#define BUTTON2 19
#define BUTTON3 18
#define BUTTON4 17
#define BUTTON5 16
#define BUTTON6 15
#define BUTTON7 14
#define BUTTON8 A6 // must be read as analog
Schematics/stripboard layout/software on GitHub should be consistent (I’ve tried… several times) reflecting the intended order and not my botched order.
@Christian had what sounded like a similar problem but no report whether they found a fix.
It doesn’t seem plausible to me it’s in software, because the only pin that would be held in a non zero state is the rotary switch button, if that were mixed up with BUTTON1/RESET that certainly would cause strange behavior but between the two software versions ROTARY could only be swapped with BUTTON7 or BUTTON8.
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Yeah I compared them, should be the same, although my build was my first module and is a spaghetti nightmare.
It seems like only pressing buttons causes problems, I can cycle thru all the patterns as usual with a clock or the step forward switch
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I redid the stripboard part - which solved my problem. Nothing wrong with the software in my case, so i won’t be able to help.
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Finally got around to fixing my sequencer up a bit. The arcade button replacement procedure eliminated all of my drifting issues but things sound just the tiniest bit distorted - equally so on all channels.
The sequencer doesn’t handle sound, only CVs and gates, so it’s hard to see how it could be causing distortion unless it’s noise from the Arduino getting into other modules.
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power issue ? it seems to have made problems for people here numerous times .
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It does not seem to affect any other modules when I plug it in and unplug it. Same thing happens when I use the filter to make a sine as well. Time to break out the scope!
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Hello, I recently finished mine and gave it a kind of MFOSesque aesthetic, I added a 555 based clock internally wired to the forwards and backwards jacks with some diodes to prevent that any external clock may damage the 555 and an SPDT as a selector; because the 555 was added after it was first built the pannel has no indications about the function of the extra toggle and knob
TBH i felt lazy and didn’t correct the code error regarding the buttons and just wired according to the code
Please forgive the sloppy finish, its my first DIY synth related build
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Looks sweet! How did you print the panel?
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So on the picture for how to build it, are the wires going to the forwards/backwards mixed up?
It shows the forwards going to the backwards socket and vice versa.
Also is there a redraw of this with improved wiring like the VCO stuff?
And finally, I have switched sockets, so I was wondering if I built a 555 timer or something similar and soldered it to the switch part of the cv in socket, could I have a built in tempo that I can override by plugging something into the socket?
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Seems like it, yes
You might want to have a look at @analogoutput’s version here, or mine here. Mind you, that last one is quite different from Sam’s.
Definitely! Just make sure that you properly protect the output of your timer circuit, as it might get shorted to ground during plugging/unplugging.
Cheers,
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Maybe, or maybe what the text is supposed to indicate is not which terminal is which but which direction the toggle goes (toggle left connects the right terminal and vice versa)… but if that’s the case then the resest/zero switch is labeled wrong so probably not…
Or even to a negative voltage if you mistakenly plug it into the wrong thing.
Also, as noted somewhere above, the pulldown resistors on the input jacks are connected wrong. Instead of tip terminal to ground they should go from the other side of the diodes to ground.
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This is awesome to know! I’m glad I noticed that the jacks looked like they were mislabeled (I’m pretty dyslexic so I don’t always notice these things) and it is exciting to know that my 555 timer idea would work! I’m gonna have a daughterboard! Lol
EDIT: (Here is that dyslexia I told you about) That said how do I properly protect it? When nothing is plugged in it goes to signal, but when there is something plugged in it hits the ground part of the mono jack. I guess it could jump up the live portion of the jack for a moment during the plug-in.
These forums have been a godsend because I’m still learning to read schematics and something about how electricity works just baffles me (it was the only part of physics in high school I never really understood), so having the lmnc Lego like diagrams and additions from you all is the best. I’ll need to remember to share my progress as I go.
Again, thanks much friend!
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The NE555 datasheet (there are other 555 versions for which this would not apply, see their datasheets) says maximum voltage on the input pins is V_CC, which presumably would be +12 V. They don’t say anything about connecting voltage to the output pin! But I’d think a Schottky diode to ground (cathode to output, anode to ground) to protect against negative voltages would be sufficient.
If you do use +12 V to power the 555 then you’ll want to divide the output down to +5 V.
The datasheet does say output current should be limited to 200 mA. With +12 V on the output pin and the jack shorted to ground you’d need 12/0.2 = 60R in series to achieve that. But of course 200 mA is a lot more than you want out of your power supply. I’d say a resistor in the 1k to 10k range between the output pin and the jack would be appropriate. Then a resistor to ground to get you down to +5 V at the jack.
I’d maybe do something like this:
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Neat! Still learning how to read schematics, but it looks simple enough. I’ll make sure to upload my progress as I build this out just for anyone else wanting to do something similar. Is there a simple adjustable 555 timer somewhere that has the “lego” instructions? (That is what I am gonna call the stripboad style diagrams)
Speaking of, here is the combo big button drum and arduino keyboard so far
The pots are numbered because I want to eventually have a metal panel for this
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Hey quick question:
Can i use 50k pots for this circuit?
I have a lot of them that i don’t use