Going for the 8step build! yesterday I did the fun part now on with the wiring. I’m pretty happy with the paint/style match but will probably make it it’s own box. 40cm is a lot of real estate to give up in my case.
I’m using these LED buttons from tayda they are a bit smaller than I’d like but they feel nice
Here is my take, with the preset module to the left of it. It’s useful to build the preset module at the same time if it interests you as it’s pretty much the same build process.
3:58 onwards in this video for the preset module.
Presets! Ok that’s awesome
I almost did gold sharpie letters yours looks great man
thanks, I did bronze for lines and gold/silver for letters, liked the make noise design. Unfortunately its hard to distinguish the bronze and gold unless you’re up close.
oooh lookit dat fancy thing! that 8-step sequencer always intimidated me with all the gubbins it has! Hows it work? 
Haha I gotta do the arduino code and do some mounting holes and whatnot still… and that’s a lot of connections I’m sure I muffed something somewhere haha.
I haven’t seen an American BOM for the 8 step sequencer, hope I didn’t just overlook it.
16 x 100k potentiometer HERE (6.35 mm shaft) or HERE (6 mm shaft) [Sam’s original BOM shows a long shaft pot but these should be fine]
14 x Jack sockets HERE [is “jack socket” a Britishism? I always hear them just called “jacks”.]
8 x PUSH BUTTONS Search eBay or AliExpress, e.g. HERE
1 x ARDUINO NANO HERE [compatible]
1x STRIPBOARD HERE
35 x 1N4148 DIODES HERE
19 x 1K resistor HERE [Sam’s BOM says quantity 18 but 19 shown in image]
12 x 10K resistor HERE
8 LED’s HERE (linked are super brights, but you can use whatever, have a look at the different ones )
2 x SPDT (on) OFF (on) switches HERE (when (on) is in brackets it means they are momentary, they dont latch on, they only turn on when you push them, they are like a sideways push button!) [“SPST” in Sam’s BOM is a typo]
1 x 78L05 HERE
PANEL [you’re on your own]
M3 screws HERE (one for mounting)
M3 Standoff for mounting the stripboard! HERE [only 30 cm, Sam calls for 50 cm but Tayda doesn’t carry them]
IC SOCKET FOR THE NANO HERE (Use 2 15 pin female headers)
AND DONT FORGET WIRE! [you’re on your own for this too]
These weren’t on Sam’s BOM but I think they should be:
16 KNOBS HERE [6.35 mm shaft, there are other options for 6 mm]
1 10 pin power connector HERE
1 10 conductor power cable HERE
Testing video
Working pretty good!
Well, the jack would be the part that plugs into the socket, right?
I think there’s a clear distinction in American English. The word jack most often refers to the socket. In British English we nearly always refer to jack plug and jack socket. I think this may be related to the fact that telephone sockets in American English have long been called jacks.
(Wikipedia says “In the UK, the terms jack plug and jack socket are commonly used for the respective male and female phone connectors. In the US, a stationary (more fixed) electrical connector is called a jack .” and mentions that “jack” comes from a 1880’s patent. I just looked at that, and it’s for a “cut-out or spring-jack switch” mechanism where the signal is automatically grounded when nothing’s plugged in. So “jack” refers to the switch mechanism, not the plug, and you’re all wrong 
)
So she’s working as intended going backwards but the forwards circuit is not right. Forward pulses or hitting the forward switch advances the sequencer two steps (one step when the switch is pressed and one step when switch is released). Need another coffee lol
Must be problem at the switch?
“Finished” my version last week, May need to re-do the stripboard part. Here’s one pic I took during building it.
Yep. The male thing’s the plug and the female thing’s the jack. You’d think they’d be the jack and the jill, respectively, but no.
Might be some switch bounce going on. Could address that in software.
So this was a 3 Ranier project? 
I may have made a drinking and drilling error on my part
Might be closer to 12 
and I’m not done yet
