I’ve been wondering about the layout of this, why are the ‘STEP OUT X’ above the buttons?
Having them above the Pot’s makes more sense to me, but then i thought. I’m not really sure of their use XD I presume to trigger a specific step (ie trigger step 5) or to trigger a sound, say from the Wav Trigger.
Though I’d probably use it for a sequence of voltages more than a sequencer for drums.
Just asking before i commit to a design, because having cables over my buttons sounds annoying AF. Goes off to rewatch Sams video again
The step out jacks are outputs, not inputs. It’s a gate which is on when that step is active.
I’m with you on not wanting them above the buttons. To me across the bottom is bettter — at least if the sequencer’s mounted vertically. If horizontal I’d prefer them at the top — either way, not in the middle.
I think it’s better the jack at the bottom too, but it can also depend on if the seq is at the bottom of your racks (cables can go up) or at the top (cables go down)
I had a good watch of your videos the other night, i love the scales on the rotary and the switches for the step on/off.
I’d be tempted to have the Step out jack above the Pots, makes more sense to me. They’re out the way and the buttons should be more accessible.
Although it will end up in Case 2 above Case 1. Urgh! Why so many choices and decisions =D haha.
Haha! Turns out I’m a dumb and i wired up the buttons the wrong way round lol Ah well, should be an easy fix =)
It’s coming along nicely though! Even if it isn’t functioning properly at the moment.
Quick question, does button 1 need to be wired up to D10? Or does the reset function deal with that?
I absolutely positively did not do that when I made mine and that is my story and I am sticking with it and you have no evidence.
In Sam’s design button 1 is wired to a pin and the reset button is wired to a different pin and then if you examine the code closely, both do the same thing.
In my version I needed to free up a pin for the rotary switch, so I wired button 1 to the same pin as the reset button.
No evidence you say… I’m sure i could scour the internet and find some =P haha!
I did read that you did that and wired it up backwards in preemptive-ness… turns out you’re smart and you fixed the code
I’m going off your design (not that I’m any good at reading schematics) and have also wired up button 1 to the reset.
Still getting wired behaviour
Reposted from the Discord
Got a quick question about DPDT switches… what’s the numbering order on them? Is it vertical left column ‘1 2 3’ vertical right ‘4 5 6’ or do they go in rows ‘1 2’ ‘3 4’ ‘5 6’?
I assumed it was the vertical ‘1 2 3’ so Ive wired it up so the top row are wired up ‘1 4’ and the bottom row are also wired up ‘3 6’
Just been having a look at the board again and does it matter if, on the DPDT switch the pulldown resistors are in position A or B? i have them in position A.
EDIT: i actually have both A and B sets! haha may be cutting the A pair will fix it?
and i dont have the Rotary hooked up yet, been waiting for one of the net. would that leave the mode unselected or does it default to forwards with 8 steps?
im tempted to hook up the junk rotary i have at the moment to test
Seems to me either position would work, and it wouldn’t make much difference if you had both.
If nothing’s connected to the rotary switch pin… then I guess that pin’s floating, and it’s anyone’s guess what will happen because when you read that pin you’d get random results. I think. To get 8 steps there needs to be about 3 V on the pin.
What ever i did wrong i fixed it =) i soldered up the Rotary and cut the resistors at point A.
just been making some bleeps n bloops with it =D
Very happy chappy!
Hello I have a quick question. Following this strip board layout it seems that the backward input into the arduino was moved to the right hand side (D13) which is not connected to the n5817’s. This leaves the Forward, Zero, Reset, and Step 8 connected to the n5817’s. According to the schematic the backwards seems it is supposed to be connected to an n5817 and step 8 isn’t. My button 8 seems to be all messed up and I don’t think my backwards is working either (though I am not positive on that because right now I can only get it to step 1 and 2 and its resetting. Working on this issue by redoing some parts but I just wanted to confirm that this strip board layout is a typo before I proceed since other people in this thread seemed to have got it working. Is this the cause? Also what would be the best course of action? Cut the n5817 leg leading to step 8 & just add a n5817 from the backward to ground before it hits the arduino?
Thanks for pointing out an error in that “verified” stripboard. The 1N5817 diodes are intended to be connected to the four inputs (FORWARD, BACKWARD, ZERO, RESET). But honestly I wasn’t thinking, or was operating outside my knowledge at the time, when I added them. They’re intended to protect against negative input voltages, but for one thing, what about excess positive voltages? (Or maybe I intended them for positive overvoltage, but they’re wrong for that.) For another thing, there already are 1N4158 diodes on the inputs, so the 1N5817 diodes will never see a negative voltage. And for a third thing, without a resistor between input and diode the diode can’t do anything. So really they’re useless. (And so are the ATMEGA’s built in protection diodes without any resistors.)
But they also are harmless. I can’t see any way they could cause any funny behavior.
Added: Unverified corrected stripboard. Zener (not Schottky) diodes can be omitted, relying on ATMEGA’s internal diodes, or not, as you prefer.
That makes sense. Thank you for the clarification it’s very much appreciated! Ended up getting everything working and am so excited about the sequencer! My problem ended up being I had pin 1 on the rotary connected to the middle A pin. I cut that connection and everything worked! Thank you so much for all your work you put into this design. It’s really awesome. First module I have built on strip board and it really takes my erica synths diy bundle to the next level being able to finally sequence it.
Thanks! Such a gratifying feeling when you see it finally work. & yeah that is very true lol. Always seems easier in your head when you are planning it out. In practice you realize the real world is more challenging than that.
Mm, big, yes, not really complicated or intricate though. Main challenge I found with it was coping with the wiring and resistors and diodes all being done on the backs of the pots and jacks and switches, no PCB or stripboard (for most of it) to anchor you. (For this version — of course there’s a sequencer PCB from LMNC.) Definitely not a beginners’ project, and not a small one, but within reach for anyone who’s built a few projects.
