Also here… EURORACK PATCHPALS n°9 WARP - YouTube
I have not had much chance to fool around with it much yet! I’ll see what I can do.
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Ive been scraping everything I need together for case #2. I would love to use the modular 3d printed rail design but it is really pushing the size limitations on my printer. I have one more big 24hr print to make before I can really get a sense of weather it will work or not. Otherwise its back to woodscrews. Or maybe aluminum rails.
Also looking at SMD sample books. There seems to be quite a range of them available. Any suggestions?
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Smd suggestion from me is pick ONE smd size per project. Make that size one you can handle as some sizes, I think, are just impossibly small for me.
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Yeah, looking at my Tides… those suckers are TINY
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Time for an update whynot?
I have not gotten much done recently - mostly just playing around with the current setup and not making much use out of my keystep. I am in the middle of 3d printing the rails for case #2 after a few failed attempts. I think I finally got the tolerances dialed in. It is taking quite a long time to print - a few more days still to get them all finished barring any down time. I’m not entirely sure that 3d printing is more cost effective than just buying some aluminum rails - but none of this was ever really a cost saving endeavor.
Half finished top row:
I’m going to finish the rails first and then cut the case to fit them instead of the other way around.
Meanwhile I am eyeing spring reveb tanks… I am looking at these two right now:
I figure go big since I have plenty of room in the case. The idea is still to cut a slot in the front so that the springs can be ‘played’. I also would like to cut the tank down as much as possible so that you can see past the springs and into the case. Someone gave me a set of strip lights that I am thinking about throwing in. Might be fun to see the light shining out of the case from behind the modules and hole for the reverb.
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Got a reverb driver in mind? Sam’s is still a no show and I’m considering a Kosmo version of the Music Thing module.
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Still not really sure. There seems to be quite a few options floating about. I’m dragging my heels as much as possible in the meantime. I figure I’ll get the physical mechanism sorted out first - as far as I can tell a tank is a tank(?)
Well, no. There are different input and output impedances, and the driver and tank need to be compatible on that score. There’s also insulated vs. grounded inputs and outputs and those also need to be correct for the driver circuit, although as I understand it they are not hard to modify.
For the Music Thing:
- Spring reverb tanks come in many flavours. If you’re buying a new tank for this module, I’d recommend one of these fairly common models: Accutronics 9EB2C1B A big 17” long reverb tank with six springs. Accutronics 8EB2C1B A smaller 10” version with three springs. This is the tank from a Fender Blues Junior amp, so is very common. Other makes with the same number (i.e. MOD 8EB2C1B or Ruby 3EB2C1B) should also work.
- The Tested spring specs are:
- Input: 150Ω to 800Ω
- Output: 2,250Ω to 2,575Ω
- Insulated input, Grounded output
- Beyond this range, you may need to do some research or experimentation. Accutronics/Belton tanks all have a code like 9EB2C1B.
- The first number doesn’t matter to the circuit (it’s the size).
- The second code (E) is input impedance: should be B, C, D or E.
- The third code (B) is output impedance: should only be B.
- The fourth code (2) is the decay time, the circuit doesn’t care.
- The fifth code (C) describes the connections, and is important. It must be C = Input Insulated / Output Grounded. This module assumes Red=Output, White=Input. Check your tank carefully. The mini tanks that come with a Doepfer A199 are sometimes coded differently.
- The sixth & seventh codes (1B) are about locking systems and orientation. The circuit doesnt care.
(The 4EB2C1B differs from the 9EB2C1B only in having two spring pairs rather than three, I think.)
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I went and pulled the trigger on what I figure is a pretty bog standard spring reverb tank (the Accutronics 4EB2C1B 600 - 2250 ohm). Now I have it on my office floor so I can stare at it and figure out how I want to mount it in my case. The more I think about it the more I feel like I’ll end up removing almost the entire tank and just use the ‘guts’.
I finally finished printing the rails. I imagine the bend that is going on will sort itself out when I get them mounted. I’ll hit them with some black spray paint before assembling the case. I still need to also 3d print the power switch box.
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You really need that shielding for the tank.
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I do want to be able to reach the springs to ‘play’ them though.
I was thinking that too, but: How much good does the enclosure do when the bottom is entirely open?
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75% good?………………………….
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Seriously, though, the bottom is usually pointed outwards away from the noise sources
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I’m intending it to be more of an instrument in and of itself - I have a pedal if I need a nice clean reverb.
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I usually just smack mine when I want a little extra 
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Guess I’ll find out eventually, I bought one too. But won’t be connecting it up for a while.
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Yeah, I am not in any hurry to hook mine up either. I’m just looking at where to cut a hole in the front of my case!
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