Hey, maybe there is another noob like me out there who needs help getting the Super Simple Fuzz onto a stripboard. So today I built one and quickly painted it. Probably it can be more elegant? But it works! By the way i used a 220k resistor because i had no other one…it still works!
Have fun to build it !!!
Good work! Does the mint tin have enough clearance for the jacks?
These are 3.5mm sockets, it is tight but works! Of course, had to isolate the bottom of the box for the board.
in the first project I did at the start, fun and easy to build. I made the wooden box.
i just add a led and a byepass switch
The Bypass switch means, if its off, the Signal goes “clean” trough the box and when its “on” you have the Overdrive effect, right ? Because my box just have the “on” Modus, when i turn the pot to the left, no Signal is getting through the Output.
yes exactely like a guitar pedal, it’s simple to add with a DPDT switch ( 2x3 pin)
one way between In and Out jack , and other way who pass by the Fuzz circuit
I just read about it now, I thought i could make it with a normal SPDT Switch but i guess this doesn´t work 
no you must have 6 pins on your switch not 3 like SPDT
Yeah, got it , otherwise iàm always in the same Circuit, but I need 2 seperate circuits .
Why not SPDT? Don’t you just need to switch whether the output comes from the fuzz circuit or direct from the input? That shouldn’t need DPDT.
True bypass usually means disconnecting both input and output, to make sure that the input circuitry doesn’t have any impact on the source.
See e.g. http://stinkfoot.se/archives/2233
@analogoutput if it can be, could you please explain how to to? (you know, I´m very new to this)
That would be great because i also don´t have DPDT Switches here at the moment.
The Stripboard Layout is on the Top of the Topic
@fredrik I need a solution to switch between the clean and the effected Signal.
The page I linked to goes over how to do true bypass (which requires at least a DPDT) but turns out he also cover some alternatives elsewhere; in your case “Mechanical output switching” on this page http://stinkfoot.se/archives/501 might be what you’re looking for.
Great stuff, think I’ll make my buddy a new guitar pedal.
as @fredrik says, for a real bypass, because being a guitarist with the pedals without true byepass slightly modifies the original sound and like most of the guitarists we have a certain quantity in series and at the end of the chain it is the disaster 
What is VR1?
Apologies for my ignorance as I’m new to the hobby. I’m assuming it’s a voltage regulator? If so, what specs do you need and what is it needed for?
VR1 is a variable resistor.
Welcome! Abbreviations appear often in schematics to save space. Most are straightforward 1st letter reduction but even then there are old terms that creep in and then, as there are no DAQ*s on the road to JFDI Accreditation, you can Google or ask here. All of us remember our start in this universe. Crack on!
*DumbA$$Questions
https://www.eeweb.com/list-of-symbols-and-abbreviations-in-electronics/
Oh that makes so much more sense! I’m getting more familiar with the abbresviations but having the image show VR1 in the diagram and then 2x POT in the list threw me off… I often see diagrams with POT written on there.
Which then leads me onto my second *DumbA$$Question haha… the list says 2x POT so is that a mistake? I don’t see a second pot anywhere
Plus a bonus question while I’m here: whats the easiest way to convert this diagram to a perf board?
