Of course! Soldering a printed PCB is such a luxury and fun, it takes 2 hours for the stripboard and 25 minutes for the printed PCB.
I said at the very beginning that I wanted to do everything myself and only build on a stripboard. Now I’ve soldered some printed PCBs and totally changed my mind.
I always thought I’d rather save an average of € 8 on a printed PCB, but now I see it differently.
Which program would you recommend? KiCad or EasyEDA
where for TL074 read TL072.
(I do mine similarly, except I use 1N5817s instead of 10Rs, I’d put the U2C power pins next to C4 and C6, and I use power symbols rather than global labels for ±12V.)
I’ve said this before but EasyEDA I’d say is easier to learn, but Kicad is more powerful and once you learn it, easier to use. “Easier to learn” is attractive, but keep in mind “easier to learn” only matters for the first few hours; “more powerful and easier to use” matters for the rest of your life.
Cool ! I’m doing a PCB of the triple splash 
And is that ok ? For the bypass caps and the power connection ? Thanks !
Looks good
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I havent run into limits yet with EasyEDA that has made me desire to go to KiCad, and i have made new footprints easily in EasyEDA. What would you say i would be missing, since i have heard this a few times.
Another question
I read that polarized capacitors are like a one way street. So my question is how can this potentiometer works if the streets that lead to it are one ways of the opposite direction? Picture will make my question clearer, I think. thanks ! I think I’m missing something.
Diodes are “electrically one way”.
Polarized (electrolytic) caps must be mounted the right way on the PCB, they need their + lead connected to a more positive voltage than their - lead, or else they will blow up, literally !
yes ! so shouldn’t one of the two caps here be mounted the other way ? So the current can flow trough the potentiometers ? It’s seems like no current can reach the potentiometers. And I trust this schematic more than myself, so I feel there is something I still don’t understand.
TIL people on youtube treat Electrolytic Caps as fireworks.
You better google around a bit to understand how caps are working, as that will be much clearer than anything I could write
I’ll do.
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You’re thinking in terms of current, when it’s more useful to think in terms of voltage. There could be no current flowing at all. Or current could be flowing from both capacitors to ground. In reality I think you have audio oscillations on a positive DC offset on the left sides of both capacitors, and what the current is doing is complicated, but in any case the left sides of both caps are positive and the right sides are closer to ground, so they’re both connected correctly.
I started looking for components on Digi-key’s website. But I can’t find the exact pieces sam uses. I looked online about the difference between TL074ACN and TL074CN. It really seems like it’s the same thing. Can you tell me if I’m making a mistake ? The one I’m the most unsure about is the L7805.
Thanks ! (I don’t want to order from UK since I live in North America)
Everything looks good to me, but wait for more opinion to be sure.
Cool ! I will But that’s reassuring
Exact regulator is here:
You can look at TI’s datasheet for differences between TL074 and TL074C, they’re pretty minor. Either should work. The other two components are fine too.
Also, here’s a Tayda BOM:
Thanks ! I’ll look into this If I used the regulator I chose, would it have worked anyway?
I have a question for the pin headers (used for connecting the jacks to the circuit). I look at Tayda’s BOM and I couldn’t find any female 1x8 pin header. So it made me wonder if its necessary to have male and female header ? Can it be two males ? That’s a funny question actually.
I made a drawing
Definitely needs to be male and female.
How you gonna plug two males into each other ? 
