I would be more helpful if I ever used easyEDA.
I would suggest taking a day and watching a load of YouTubes about the workflow
Edit:
Nice, looks good. There are different sizes of thru hole resistor as well so make sure it’s what you want.
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The thing is that I’m quite tight on my schedule. I’m building this for a university project. So I’ve got 4 weeks. And that’s only 1 of 4 different projects !
I’ll check the sizes of thru hole resistor:) thanks !
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Eeesh. Glad my days of school deadlines are over
Even with the schedule…I would highly suggest taking the time.
Or choose a simpler module for your first go around. Ordering pcbs takes a week at least, and it only takes one silly error to make you have to order a revised board. Even after redrawing a dozen or so designs I have like a 50% first board success-rate, at best.
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Yeah I thought so too 
So here’s my backup plan : (It’s the same, but simpler and on veroboard) I’d like to add a CVinput too (with a vactrol on the time pot I think)
I really want to, at least, try to get it on PCB. And yeah I’ll probably take the time to watch couple more of videos about easyEDA 
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Best of luck! We believe in you
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hahahah thank you ! I might post my scheme here (sam’s scheme), so if you or anyone else want to tell me what I missed, feel free to do it 
It would help me
HAHAHA !! Exactly like you do in this sentence. ROFL 
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Well yes, subtle humor
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I’ve wanted to have my own circuit boards made for so long, but it’s so much work and you have to be 100% accurate, otherwise it was all in vain. So I don’t dare to take the step with EasyEDA yet. But at some point I MUST, unless there is the possibility to have PCBs made by DIYLC. That would be really cool. However, a stripboard layout also takes up a lot of space and we all don’t have that. A vicious circle!!!
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What’s DIYLC ? And I don’t think easyEDA is too hard ! You only need to be organized (watch a ton of tutorial) and be ready to order revised version of your PCB haha. The prices are quite low too (if I remember right). So it’s no bother, except if you have a deadline (like me). But I haven’t even ordered my first PCB. So maybe after that I’ll reconsider what I just said haha (If it’s a disaster). I’ll let you know
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I hope of course that your project will be a success!
YES! Be sure to let me know.
DIYLC = DIY Layout Creator, a really very good program for stripboard layouts. It’s freeware and you can download it here.
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Well, it’s work, but so’s soldering. I enjoy doing it. More than soldering, in fact.
As for 100% accurate, well, maybe more like 90%. The rest you can kludge around. The great thing about Kicad and EasyEDA and so on is that if your schematic is accurate and you’ve chosen the right footprints then they can tell you if your layout has problems… getting the schematic and footprints right is the main hurdle (and Kicad at least can catch some mistakes in the schematics, though e.g. “you got the inputs reversed on that op amp” is not one of the error messages it can generate, yet.)
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I also like it more than soldering, definitely more than soldering strip board designs. The first few boards are a hurdle but once you have all your symbols and footprints you use on every module it gets pretty quick and painless
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Have I done something weird here ? I haven’t put the matching footprints behind the symbols yet I didn’t know how to name the eurorack power so I named it PWR-ER (power eurorack). I looked at sam’s BOM (bill of materials) and it seems FB1 are resistors ? Or something looking like a resistor ? I put the resistor symbol anyway.
Those could be resistors or fuses or diodes or ferrite beads or craft store beads or pieces of wire.
More here:
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Yes, but many builders will ignore that and substitute fuses or diodes or ferrite beads or craft store beads or pieces of wire. (I use diodes.)
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ok ! I will check this out 
And can you tell me if that’s ok ? I’m not so sure (they are supposed to be the same circuit, If I made it right)
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Looks good! Just nitpicking at this point but I like the grounds pointed down. But you can point them anyway and they’d still work.
Make sure on the power header each ground pin is connected to eachother and the two 12v pins should be together, same for the -12v. Shown here:
Also are you doing a pcb of the triple splash or the simple?
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Also, here is an annotated power circuit for another project, but it might help you out.
A lot of people (including me) put their bypass caps in the power section of their schematics, which can be confusing
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