Powering module

So im building sams cem3340 vco as my first module and Im just struggling on how I want to power it. I have no furthur experience in stipboard appart from making a water sensor in tech 2 years ago in school :sweat_smile: . How would I use a 10 pin box header on the stipboard to power it like any other module. Thanks :slight_smile:

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This?


If I were doing it I’d modify it by making the last three strips (+12V, GND, -12V) into five just by putting empty strips between the three. Then put in jumpers between the middle (GND) strip and each of the two new strips. Then just solder the box header across those five strips.

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Here is a pic of when i did mine.

Its basically exactly what @analogoutput said to do. As far as powering it, i recommend the Frequency Central Microbus (also pictured here).

Here is a link to that for you:

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So a space between them? It’s my first time so im a bit confused

Oh i think i understand now. Just to clarify though just answer my previous question

Add the 10-pin box header below the strips used by the existing layout. Then add links from the +12V, GND (any of them), and −12V rails in the header to the corresponding supply strips in the layout (the bottom 3 ones).

Here’s the standard header layout. This’ll occupy five strips:

Optionally, but recommended, connect the three GND header strips to each other.

If you want to get fancy, you can just rewire the existing links instead and skip the intermediate links, but that’s perhaps easier to mess up, at least if you’ve already built the layout.

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I kind of understand this but thanks, all of this help should make the module work :slight_smile:

Replace


with
(Check the header orientation, pretty sure I got the notch on the right side but it’s before breakfast so)

The two new jumpers on the right are to connect your board’s ground to ALL the ground pins, you might get away with omitting them thereby connecting to only two of the ground pins but best practice is to connect to all.

(Edited to remove extraneous wires in second diagram)

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so what do the +12 gnd and -12v wires do (im sorry for wasting all of your time but also thank you so much for the help)

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Oh, sorry, remove the three wires on the right. That’s what you’re replacing with the header. Like I said, before breakfast.

Sorry for spam but are the wires near the GND still there
:))

I just corrected my post, see revised diagram

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ok thanks for your help

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Sorry if I am necroing a post - but I am working on power supply related things and wanted to make sure. On the box connector, both of the top two wires are +12 and both of the bottom two are -12?

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Yes, and all six in the middle are ground.

The reason for the duplication (or sextuplification) is that the ribbon cable wires are thin, and trying to supply full bipolar power on just three of them is a bad idea. Which is why your modules should connect to both +12V wires, both -12V wires, and all six (well, at least four) ground wires.

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It beats me why people don’t just use decent connectors and thicker wire in the first place.

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Ask Dieter Doepfer :joy:

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It’s what you’re stuck with if you’re doing Eurorack or using Eurorack bus bars. I like it that Kosmo uses them because it makes it easy to use Eurorack PCBs for Kosmo modules. But if you’re doing your own PCBs and have no interest in Eurorack modules or bus bars or Kosmo modules, then yeah, makes more sense to use a less silly system.

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I’m still pondering this. A while back I looked at various connectors. Since I moved to banana plugs for patching I’ve been looking at binding posts. They occupy very little space, they’re sturdy and they’re very cheap. To connect them up you can use nice thick wire up to say 10awg thickness and terminate it with a spade lug or a banana plug or just thread the wire through the hole in the post and clamp it with the thumbscrew. You can even daisy chain the power easily if the wires are thick enough to support that.

Edit: I’ve made my mind up to go for an even more compact option: PCB mounted screw terminal blocks. They’re reasonably cheap and work with thick wire. They’re also small enough that I may be able to use them in constructing my mignon circuits.

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Hmm

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