DIY power cables - did I choose right parts?

Hello,

I am ordering power cables for DIY modules. Did I choose right ones in terms of connections? As I read 16p are rare used, so should I stick with 10p?

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Sorry, 2links limitation for nooby here - paste the number instead one from the link before

They look good 16 pin are used quite a bit. I have seen In DIY designs. But the extra pins are not always used. I bought 10pin and 16pin just for the options. I make staggered power bus boards with stripboard. https://www.instagram.com/p/B7kJOY-B9MW/

I would suggest you order some pre-wired power leads if you are just starting out and don’t have experience with crimping such connectors. Just for less headaches while testing your first modules.

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Ha, good to know I’m not the only one who does it this way :grinning:

Really, though, if I was starting out, I would do all 16 on the power bus and 10 on the module end. I just already have so many 10 to 10 cables.

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Ok, so you recommend to make 16p-10p cables to the module that should be connected as 10p?
I guess I should order 10p and 16p cable and one more DC/DC regulator based on LM2596-ADJ to complete the power supply design.

I don’t think you need to add 5v to the supply until you need it, but if you make the bus board 16 pin, it will be ready just in case. You probably will never need it. Just get 10p cable and put 16p connector on one end and 10p on the other.

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Here’s a link to my post on the cheap components thread. Among it I have links to ribbon cables.

What I do is I do 16 to 10 pin with a 10 ribbon. That’s because I’m using a 10 pin box header for my modules and a 16 pin box header for my diy power supply. Frequency Central makes a dandy pcb for a power supply, and Sam did a video on it! Below is a Bom and everything if you are interested.

I just realized that your icon is twilight sparkle.

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If you’d rather not make your own cables:


https://modularaddict.com/parts/cables/eurorack-power-cables-1613

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Thanks for the link - I will take a look on the list. I might send you links to Aliexpress, I will pickup many packages this week, so vendors will be checked. Leave me note if you want, I most time look for best deals.

Heh, good old times, Forum had to took it from gmail account. Still nice and simple art, so I will leave it as it is : )

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Fee free to post in that cheap components thread! i dont buy from ali, but i know a lot of people here do!

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It is funny. I ordered a bunch of 10 pin too 10 pin. But Didn’t take a look at the length. Now I am stuck with a bunch of stubby small cables. That I could use for a smaller build but pretty hard with a Kosmo type setup. Probability start making my own cables.

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Just opened today mail with 10x short DP10 cables : D
I plan to use the connectors to make 10-16 ones, I found cheap connectors in my country so I will order soon.

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Just ordered my parts in preparation so I haven’t been able to inspect in detail, but following the standard BOMs and fittings, I have since bought the FC power supply, 10 pin ribbon cables, and have my 10 pin box headers on each module. But to clarify, how would you insert the 10 pin ribbons into the 16 pins on the power supply? orientation?

First, which FC power supply? The FC Power has one 16 pin (as normally built) box header and needs to be used with some form of bus to provide a header for each module. The Microbus and Routemaster have space for 8 and 12 headers respectively.

Conventionally you use a ribbon cable with a 16 pin connector on one end; on the other end is another 16 pin connector, if connecting to a Eurorack module with a 16 pin power header (which is rare), or a 10 pin connector for Eurorack modules with 10 pin headers (which is common), or Kosmo modules. In the former case you would use a 16 conductor ribbon cable. In the latter case you use a 10 conductor cable and on the power bus end the cable is installed on the first 10 pins of the 16 pin connector. The red stripe is fully to one side.

It’s easiest just to look at one.

image

Notice the position of the key that goes in the slot on the box header. Don’t get it backwards. You need to be careful to make sure the red stripe is on the negative (-12V) end of the connector on both cable ends.

For Kosmo modules, since they never use the 16 pin connectors, you could build your power supply bus with 10 pin headers and then use 10 pin connectors on both cable ends.

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image

I have unfortunately done this once. Wasnt fun. By the way, the next FC Microbus i build will def use only the 10 pin headers. I have never needed the other stuff, and it has just been a bit more annoying.

Today happened to be the day I tried out my first three homemade power cables. (I had parts for five, got three good ones out of it. There was a bit of a learning curve.) Plugged them into my most easily replaced module. They all worked. (I’d previously checked continuity on them so was pretty sure they would.)

Today was also the day I decided not to use my bag of 2x8 headers to populate my next power supply and bus board, instead I’m going to use 2x5s. None of my Eurorack modules has a 2x8 header, and if I ever get one that does I can put it on the TipTop supply. I see no point in providing any more 5V that’ll never be used.

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I’ve recently reached the same conclusion, though I’m sticking with 2x8 at the supply end just because of the many cables and bus boards I already have. But, my next supply (coming soon) will not have the 5 V until I need it. Which will probably be never.

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