New to DIY Kosmo build

hey my brothers and sisters, mainly dropping in to connect with the community, i made need some help along the way, but im excited to get involved in the kosmoverse!

started building today, few questions arose

i see on the VCO BOM it states 1.8k for one resistor and 4k7 for another one, they are both 1k8 and 4.7k respectively right? just a glitch in naming convention?

also, i cant get hold of any 100nf capacitors (disc ceramic) would the polyester boxes be functionaly the same?

weeeeeee, im so excited, just ordered the wood to build my case too!

5 Likes

100 nF ceramic caps are ridiculously common, you should have no problem getting them. They’re the same as 0.1 µF so you might look for that nomenclature. In principle poly boxes would work, I guess, but they’re larger and might not fit in the provided footprint. Mostly the 100 nFs are used for bypass and ceramic is fine for those, save the fancier caps for the audio path.

Yes, 1.8k = 1k8 and 4k7 = 4.7k.

4 Likes

ah yeah ok, lesson 1. nf and uf are denominations like cm and mm!

very handy to know, thanks for the help!

4 Likes

Yes, nanofarad = 10^-9 farad and microfarad = 10^-6 farad. If you want to be technically correct the f is capitalized in the abbreviation (but not in the full word: F is the symbol for farad) and u is actually Greek letter µ but most people don’t use a keyboard that has µ readily available so u is commonly used.

2 Likes

I recommend to print yourself a table if you will get more values in the future : )

6 Likes

or here :
http://pencho.my.contact.bg/start/comp/uF_nF_pF.htm

3 Likes

Ok ace thanks guys, I’m in a limbo setup at the moment and fully planning on printing out some tables when I get a proper desk

These are really helpful!

Turns out I already had some 100nF but labelled differently

1 Like

Very much this. When I’m buying I always cross ref just in case so I buy the right value. And if I have seen the values be used interchangibly, I white the other value in my baggie.
@fluxpavilion, if you want to source parts, we have a thread with a load of cheap commonly needed parts for convenience.

Also be sure to check out the threads listed with BOM in the title. We usually have existing threads about a lot of the kosmi modules, as well as a few of the stripboard layouts. Feel free to make a thread if you have any issues, take a look first if you see a thread!

6 Likes

If you are planning multiple SSOs maybe consider this build similar to this instead:

Some people- including me - spend a lot of extra time with SSO project because it is hard to debug. Maybe looks simple, but when something is wrong good luck with finding the case quickly : )
As fredric suggested there is possibility to make bank of 6 VCOs with CVs using simple and cheap components DIY repositories

2 Likes

Ace thanks caustic I’m gonna check that out

Regarding debug I’m pretty terrified of having to do that on any of them tbh, I really have no idea what I’m looking at there.

I have a voltage meter but don’t know how to use it, what an amazing way to learn though! That’s my attitude

Another quick question, there are a few component holes (?) That have a sort of disconnected outline on the pcb and they are more tricky to solder than the rest, is it because they are basically dead holes?

Oh and I’m currently building two of the VCO’s

Plan is to build all 12 of Sam’s monthly Kosmo releases in my own Kosmo box

1 Like

Can you post a photo?

Sure

R16 https://imgur.com/gallery/BQgw2uy

Right pad of R16

I would guess that those are connected to the ground plane so they are more difficult because they suck up more heat. Kinda the opposite of dead holes, actually.

1 Like

yeah ok, that does make sense, i figured dead holes arent really a thing, but it was my best guesstimation

1 Like

@Piecho whats an SSO?

1 Like

SSO refers to the “Super Simple Oscillator”. Be warned, a few people have expressed some difficulties with that one. Learning to use a multi-meter is useful. two things to start: learn to measure voltage, and learn how to use continuity test.

Continuity tests basically checks if one thing is connected to another. You do this when there is no power supplied to the circuit. Usually the meter will beep to indicate that they are connected. it does this by sending a bit of electricity through both ends.

Checking voltage:

Most of the time, you are going to use DC voltage. if you put the leads on backwards, it just means it will show up negative (if the polarity was positive originally).

If you need some help beyond this thats fine, multi-meters are a bit different depending on make/model so we can help if you send a pic of it if you require.

4 Likes

ok great, thank you!

i could really learn how to use it

also building a serge and a buchla DIY too, plus some guitar pedals and the odd electric guitar (plus some eurorack for good measure)

so far its all been going well

this is the one i have

2 Likes

Dope, i own that one. I can show you around.

2 Likes

I have that one too. Good choice.

2 Likes

I made a video showing you how to use that thing.

5 Likes