Finished up my #1148 build. I wouldn’t hold my breath for this one to make it to Eurorack any time soon 
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@ChristianBloch you rock!
(edit: considering all the work you are putting into this [community])
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Another one for the litany of dumbassery thread… 
Thought I’d breakout the soldering iron and try to desolder the capacitors and ICL7660 chips from the DSO Shell analogue board. First time the iron has been used in a while and I couldn’t get it to hold solder, let along melt the solder on the board.
After a bit of flux, wire wool, tip tinner and patience I manage to get it sort of working, although look the other way and it was dull and black again. Anyhoo, decided to have a bash at soldering up the Kosmo Mini power boards, replacing the 10R resistors with diodes, guess what happened next…
Stupidly cut the diode boards off their legs, and now can’t get the legs out and don’t have anything thin enough to shovel into the holes to push them. Off to order a new iron tip, might buy some really thin drill bits as well.
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Well, any resistor leg should go into holes for resistors, don’t they ?
Do it fast 
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Maybe these pins can help.
Look for this “Hollow needles desoldering tool electronic components Stainless steel”
They have been of help to me quite a few times and made it possible to remove components without running the risk of accidentally lifting pads etc. As the solder does not stick to them, you can also use them to open up a closed hole by heating it up, sticking the needle into it, wait for the solder to cool and remove the needle. Now you have a ‘new’ hole for a replacement component.
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My initial reaction to that was, I threw all the legs out. I suppose I could sacrifice a resistor or two though.
I’ll give them a look. 
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I hate it when that happens. Desoldering needles are supposed to be meant for that, thin enough to go through the hole but with a hollow in the tip to push the wire lead and made from metal that’s not supposed to stick to solder, but the only ones I ever had were cheap bendy useless crap.
I’ve managed to do it with toothpicks, but it’s a pain.
The old heat up the solder and then smack the board on the table trick might work too.
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yep the old heat up and smack the board on the table works I may have done this a few times …
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Still like this stuff. Use it much more often than I should admit.
Also pushing through with an unfolded paper clip has been helpful. Solder does not seem to stick very well if you limit your time and keep it moving.
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Really need someone to Kosmo this thing.
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Got my module tester up and running (kit from @SYNTHGUY57).
This should help me get my modules up and running a bit quicker.
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en thanks for the shoutout and damn dude quick build , wow just fantastic skills
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Where did you get the case from…!?!
I still need one…
Hello Synthguy57,
me too.
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MI has the enclosure drawing in it’s repo: module_tester/module_tester.eps at master · pichenettes/module_tester · GitHub
You can use that to lasercut an enclosure.
I just realized that I did some small modifications to the drawing because I build the module tester using the amazing synth PCB. That required a different power supply. So I modified the labels. And I had round button caps.
I can’t find it anymore. Otherwise I would have posted it here.
Anyway, the Mi drawing is a good basis, but my advise is to check of course with the pcb you are using.
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I got it from SYNTHGUY57 as a full kit, and he got it from synthcube. It is labeled with the incorrect 12VAC instead of 12VDC for v2, but everything is still the correct size.
If you have access to a laser, using the files is the more economic way to go.
One does not have access to a laser. I was hoping that @amazingsynth.com was going to do another run… 
psyching myself up, might have some time this weekend, laser was broken but think it’s ok now
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Consider one sold if you do…
thanks, will see what I can do, a lot on at the moment