It may pop back to middle C but if it is not triggered, that does not make a difference since one would not hear that, or am I missing something?
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sounds fair!!! I dont think it would work in my touring rig annoyingly as at some points I pull out the jacks going to the oscillators to bring them back down to the bass note. hence I’m quite stuck in the 0 - 10! but fair points :D. well the oscillators can take either -5 5 or 0 10, so I suppose its fine! its more the setup of the midi-cv. interesting though!!!
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I also think that most of the outputs of the MIDI-to-CV module can safely be positive only.
The main exception would be the pitch bend output which should be able to go negative to bend notes down when summed with a 1V/octave CV through a DC mixer or a summing input like the one on the #1222 Performance VCO, but even that can be worked around with the octave switch, if the neutral position of the pitch bend wheel corresponds to an integer voltage (unless you need to bend notes from the lowest octave).
I find it more surprising that the #1222 VCO’s outputs are also positive only.
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One after thought. I added the option to choose the CV voltage range when I found out that some other gear that I have (Neutron, Model D etc.) has input voltage ranges from -5 to +5 V for some of their CV inputs.
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this is my DIY setup currently I am making it there. Right to left
Sillyscope, Cem VCO, DIY power header, Amp, Headphone switch, Plug converter,
Power Rails +12/+9/+9 negative center for my circuit bent toys and pedals.
Simple Distortion that works half the time.
3 IN 2 out Mixer. Atari punk console 556, Multiple and LMNC AD/AR.
Sillyscope, Cem VCO, DIY power header, Amp, Headphone switch, Plug converter,
Power Rails +12/+9/+9 negative center for my circuit bent toys and pedals.
Simple Distortion that works half the time.
3 IN 2 out Mixer. Atari punk console 556, Multiple and LMNC AD/AR.
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Love the sillyscope. Mine just died for the upteenth time. Getting tired of having to fix it.
Refloat, replace part, repeat.
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All I understood out of this whole Midimuso discussion was that I need to make sure to order and set aside 18 jack sockets and 3 midi jacks for your midi/cv module… 
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Save on plugs. Have 18 jack ended cables erupting out the panel. 
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Messed up my voltage regulators when I first built it. All working now, well for now. 
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Did the same. I like the frequency central boards. 20 mins to construct and very reliable. Though I have made a couple based on Christian Blasol :can’t spell it(modular in a week - the updated version with bigger caps)
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the hek is a sillyscope.
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I believe it be yout speak for an oscilloscope, possibly in a silly mount or just cuz its little. Aw! So cute! 
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I’m thinking there might be some conflation in this discussion between the issues of whether control voltages should be 0-10V or ±5V, and whether 0V frequency CV should be C4 or C0 or something else. Those are separate issues. Looking at the LMNC LFO schematic, its output is ±5V, isn’t it? There’s a negative offset in the output stage.
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awesome, switch plates and cardboard face plates lofi diy to the max . 
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Lol I need to turn my scope into a sillyscope!
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I have one of those [ silly scopes] that sort of works , they are really touchy about their power supplies …
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Yes that is pretty much it. A lot of people refer too the DSO138 as not a real scope or a toy. But good enough for me. So I gave it a name The Sillyscope.
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Great name and a fine tool for the price. I have, I hope with your permission, christened my own “the sillyscope.” And should I ever get mine working again I will be fixing it permanently to a panel. I’ll probably buy another soon.
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Thanks the switch plate comes in handy when you want to quicky mute or switch too headphones. It is a pretty old switch from radioshack found 2 of them in a thrift store for cheap. It was made for the days where you would mod your stereo system to have headphone output.
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May you have great time seeing and hearing the waves of sound my child
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