I did that when ordering the displays for the diy braids . needed 6 didn’t realize they were lots of 10 so I ended up with 60 displays . wondered why it was so expensive duh .
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Hmmm… An array of 7 segment light needs a corresponding 7 ldr layer for some weird vactarol
Matrix thing… or each display as an 8 beat counter…
Enjoy
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10 is the minimum for resistors and small ceramic caps. I think it’s 100 if you want SMD stuff.
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yeah I think it was Mouser that has a 100 min. on some values of resistors .
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Don’t worry , electricity is colour blind.
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And switches aren’t polarized anyway…
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Ive done that countless times. It’s even more embarrassing when you’re selling the spare boards and have to admit your mistakes 
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Yep… Made same mistake and passed on the spares with the details…
Think it may feature early on in the thread
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I know, but it pisses off the OCD in me…
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that pot looks like its got its fingers crossed. 
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Looks to me like it’s holding in a weeeee/peeeeee/tinkle/etc…
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Or like it really has to go right now.
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When you accidentally use a header with 2mm pitch, but one with 2.54mm wouldn’t have fit in the first place:
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Surely you can force it into place? Just needs a good hammer. 
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Starts to look a bit like pinhead…
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BTW, looks like there’s room for some point-to-point mods there…
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I set the enclosure design for the Harmo-Key to print its 14 hour print last night.
Marked in red is before i revised it. This is a recess for a hex nut for an m3 screw. The idea is to use it to give the print some threads to screw the top bit into. Notice the problem with the original?
There was no material to actually bind the two pieces together! It would just slip out! So now the design has a place below where you insert the nut, and then it falls into a hex hole. The m3 screw then screws in from the top.
Also, the filament im using now is a bit too sticky and ruined the removable magnetic bed when i removed the prints this time, at least i printed the updated front panel. Might be a while before I try this new revision, need either some different filament or a new bed situation.
Now that i look at the new revision, im betting the nut will be loosey in the y axis. I should probably just test just this part first before i lose my mind with long prints.
It’s the worst feeling when you get 10 hours into a 15 hour print, go back and look at the CAD, and realise your mistake.
Have you been rubbing 80 grit sandpaper on that or something? I’ve not seen one like that before. The only thing that destroyed part of mine was using the trashy scraper that comes with the printer - I stopped using it after the first print.
I have an Easy Peelzy in its box to use when the Creality bed gives up, however I am willing to bet it’ll last another year or two yet. Angus (of Makers Muse) said in a recent livestream that he’s had one on his printer for at least 3 years.