yeah what happend on the bed?
My first one suffered from a few badly stuck prints but lasted ~12 months.
I always reheat the bed extra hot on tricky prints before trying to pop off.
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Im using the scraper that came with it. its a bit on the thick side, and also has a cheapo-sharp edge from when it was factory cut (found this out after finding cuts on my hands frequently and only put it together later). I dont usually use it, but the filament was stuck so hard to the thing i had to use it to get it off.
Never had this issue with the inland pla+, but i had to pick up the pla pro this last time. It SUUUUCKS. Its less firm, its gummy to the surface and sticks like you glued it. It also flows stupid and i hate it.
The plan was to get a better scraper and avoid using the filament i knew to be problematic, but i couldnt restrain my desire to push forward, so here i am!
Ill just dump the filament and grab a new bed later, but since im about to move it will be a while before i get a new bed.
I know its not normal to go through that many magnetic beds, but both were destroyed just from using this filament. Normally PLA+ just pops of with a bit of flex. Im not super broken up about the bed since the last time i replaced it, i left bubbles on the bottom magnet sheet, and its not too pricey to replace so it was something i should have fixed anyways.
@twinturbo heat was actually my enemy with this filament, the warmer it was, the more it stuck. The worst thing is, this brand sometimes interchangeably uses pro and + on online listings so now i have to worry about my next batch if i dont order in person.
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I find that putting problematic prints in the freezer for an hour or two then taking them out and peeling the flexible bed off the print is quite effective. I just print over skirts and purge lines that won’t come off. This does leave an imprint in the bottom of the print though nowhere near as bad as what you’ve got there.
And then you’ve also got the painter’s tape ‘trick’. When I tried painters tape the heat from the bed melted the adhesive (cheap Poundland tape) and left a sticky mess all over the bed. It took hours of rubbing with isopropyl alcohol to get that stuff off.
Ive settled on using Technology Outlet/copymaster3d PLA for almost everything. The esun PLA+ from Amazon was full of bubbles when I bought it, the Sunlu stuff was nice but shipping was expensive, and I found a supplier for Hatchbox PLA in the UK, but after we left the EU they shut down. (damn you david!)
The other issue could be that your nozzle is too close to the bed - a trick I learned is that if you up your first layer extrusion multiplier to 300-400%, you can get away with having the nozzle further away from the bed. I also found out that you can use reject PCBs as a sort of feeler gauge by running the ‘level corners’ option in Marlin then sending a command via Octoprint to move the nozzle up by 1.7mm. it’s a lot easier and more precise than using office paper. Let me know if you want more details.
Right I’ll quit rambling, hope that helped somebody somewhere.
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nah nah i get it, it was a bit of a combination of what you were saying. I got my trusty inland pla+ that has worked as a goodbaseline now, and also a glass bed. Lookin forward to the calibration and stuff, but hopefully ill be in a better state. Thanks for the advice!
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The 10ohm resistors on the LMNC breadboard header - those are suppose to turn black and start smoking, right?
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This is why I have an enormous amount of IC sockets.
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My father’s good friend is an embedded DSP guy. What a great guy to know right? I recently visited my hometown for the first time in a while and he hooked it up with a goldmine of old test equipment. I assure you that he was enthused about the new desk space he’d cleared off. The haul included:
- 70s phillips oscilloscope
- Hewlett Packard audio analyzer
- a TI DSP dev kit
- a desktop multimeter
- handheld multimeter
- a box of random ICs
- single +12v power supply
I live across the country and really only needed the scope for pressing matters. We were trying to deliberate whether to ship the scope or should I bring it and more in a checked bag. We opted to ship it.
Day after I get home pops calls me and says UPS wants $220 to ship the damn thing. I checked USPS and even they would charge almost $90 for it.
sigh
the chips, DSP, and handheld multimeter are on the way though so that’s cool 
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that sucks , for that $ you could buy a new one . well at least you got a few goodies out of it .
why so much to ship? did you go direct to the courier or use a parcel broker?
They are insanely heavy. The one I purchased broken (and fixed) was more to ship than to buy.
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That’s probably what I’m gonna have to do 
UPS is apparently more expensive than all other shipping services in the US. not entirely sure why!
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What quantifies insainly heavy. <25KG is standard service weight in UK <35KG’s still not to bad and after that just get a pallet for £55 
( although UK pallet services are limited by the distance one can actualy tavel )
Rob
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Got all the pots of the 808 hat in the right direction!! All caps have the right footprint! Very proud! But…
I mixed up the jacks for open and closed 
So, now when I trigger the left (open) hat, the led lights on the right and I hear the closed one (and opposite) -.-
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I got hit by the customs thing too…it was like a kick in the teeth seeing as ive ordered from tayda multiple times and its never happened :((((
Assuming that just cause it’s got a barrel jack in the bottom of it, your laptop PSU will fit. Guess I need to find another PSU… 
Hence I always keep one of these on hand:
Dead cheap, dead useful.
I don’t have that exact model, mine has slightly bigger jacks, but you get the idea.
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Cheaper than buying a whole new PSU; but if I buy a new one, I can get a 24v 5A one, so get the full wattage out of that fancy iron… 
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Haha, happened to me recently with a 7812 and 7912 where I mixed up the pin ordering. Now the 7912 looks like it needs to go to the toilet really badly, just like your first pot 
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Tonight I misread 1M resistors as 1K and installed them in my DIY PSU (:
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