This might want its own thread!
This summer with the heat my Ribbon controller got a little hot, and the Velostat (conductive plastic material which is very thin) waving, and made contact in some places 
I still had some and am currently taking it apart to change it, but I added a thickness of adesive tape to consolidate it
i’m waiting for the glue to dry …
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Not electronics, but this woodworking video made me think of this thread:
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Man, for a shop table, I’d’ve just screwed some 2x4s and a piece of plywood together and called it a day.
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It’s remarkable how stuff changes when it’s correctly grounded.
(I’d been trying for ages to figure out what was wrong with my Barton Sallen-Key VCF, a design very similar to the René Schmitz MS-20 Filter and therefore, I guess, to the LMNC Performance Filter. Finally I emailed Barton and he made some suggestions, one of which was: Check the grounding on the tip switch of the HP input jack. I did, and found it wasn’t. Grounded. I’d completely forgotten to make that connection. Touched a screwdriver between ground and tip switch and everything started working…)
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Yesterday some test of my Baby 8, and my schematic is not working good with the reset steps part (it looked good on paper)
a on/off/on switch for each step, one on/off is for the reset, but if i not disconnect the steps 9 reset, that don’t work
i must have to add another switch on/off to choose to select a 8 steps seq or to have the choice for use all others steps reset
allready a lot of things on the panel but i need it ! (maybe near the run switch ? 
)
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I just found my first panel layout
and there was a switch to select 8 steps
when I added a jack for the additional trigger output and added a Run / Off switch on my drawing , I completely forgot this famous switch 
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Really? That seems strange to me. If you never get to step 8 then why does it matter whether it resets on step 9?
Hm, here’s Ken Stone’s version:
There are diodes on the various lines leading to the reset pin (from Q8, from the sequence length switch, and from the reset input). Did you include such diodes? Maybe try that.
(And note the 100k pulldown resistor again! After the diodes, connecting to the reset pin.)
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Thx
yes something wrong here
i think that all my green wire must jump on 1 line with the manual push switch diode
bad new, i have already do the new hole (f**k)
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I finaly made the mod with the diode and all work fine without the switch, so use the hole for a indicator led for the clock in
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i’ve also put one 
, but only a 47K 
I WILL BE CAREFUL WITH MY 3340S.
I WILL BE CAREFUL WITH MY 3340S.
I WILL BE CAREFUL WITH MY 3340S.
I WILL BE CAREFUL WITH MY 3340S.
I WILL BE CAREFUL WITH MY 3340S.
I WILL BE CAREFUL WITH MY 3340S.
I WILL BE CAREFUL WITH MY 3340S.
I WILL BE CAREFUL WITH MY 3340S.
I WILL BE CAREFUL WITH MY 3340S.
I WILL BE CAREFUL WITH MY 3340S.
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Oh nooooooooooooooo! Thats a painful one.
I once blew up 2 (genuine) 3340s by plugging them in backwards.
Not cheap.
I’m curious, what is this story ?
So, I milled this from the wrong side and cut through the label… not really bad but then I wanted to mill some wood and the drill bit got stuck and then the Proxxon smoked and blew up and now I have a non working cnc machine. Just as before 
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No kill like overkill XD
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Reminds me of:
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