I may take a page from “real” car modification and chop the spring. Hehe
Thankyou for the suggestions!
2 Likes
Procrastinating
6 Likes
So what’s with the acupuncture needles? Is this a new maybe oriental approach to sound synthesis?
2 Likes
I added an OLED display (hope it is compatible) to the development board I made for the Daisy Seed. I’ll start on the software side of things soon.
This one might be usable for menu control etc. I still need to find a multi color one for the spectral display I’m planning to add to Vocode-O-Matic.
7 Likes
Haha. nah this is PCB pr0n, look at it… a fresh nubile pcb about to be destroyed XD
Either that or its a dice roll circuit bend.
Man, feels like i havent built in ages. ive got most the parts for 2 panels just need to order up some pots and build a bus board.
1 Like
That is such a refined and indeed pretty layout.
Almost a shame to put it in a case.
Nice one @analogoutput
3 Likes
This looks amazing. Some time ago I thought that black PCB are the way to go, but recently I find the white ones a lot more pleasing.
2 Likes
I’ve got a few Daisy Seed projects in mind, I’d love to hear more about your dev board and your project plans for it!
1 Like
Do you know where R13 is connected in the schematic plz ?
R13 (4.7K) is not use in “normal” sloth but in all the others versions more long, and there is some explications to do the mod on the PCB but it’s not show in the schem.
I find they scorch more easily, though. Or maybe they just show it more, but I kind of think it’s not just that.
@ChristianBloch’s doesn’t show it, maybe he’s running a lower iron temperature than mine (350°C).
3 Likes
Ribbon cable? Hm. …
1 Like
I didn’t use it for my “normal” Sloth and my outputs are less than ±5 V more or less. (Even though the schematic says ±8 V for one output.) As I understand it, it goes across one of the output jacks from tip to sleeve. “the ‘big’ or ‘Y’ output” it says. It’d create a voltage divider with the 1k output resistor, knocking the amplitude down by 1/5.7 = 18%. Which is not ±5 V if you’re starting from ±8 V so … okay, whatever. I’d say use it if you need it and adjust the value to get the result you want.
1 Like
Thanks ! and what sort of condensator do you use for the 1uf in your Sloth version plz ?
because it’s not again really clear for me
in the tab : " … or BP/NP electro"
and in the description : “not electrolytic”
???
electro and electrolytic means 2 sort of different cap ? i don’t think
or maybe we can use both sort without problem … ?
No, electro and electrolytic are the same thing.
I really don’t know why the “not electrolytic” in the description.
I would just go for the MCC/ceramic.
They are the same price than the electrolytic, and probably less trouble…
Near certain I used NP electrolytic. The wording there is confusing but I think at the bottom they’re just clarifying that MCC is not electrolytic — not that you can’t use NP electrolytic.
2 Likes
I usually run at 330. Maybe I’m just a 1337 solx0r 
1 Like
Currently I’m working on Vocode-O-Matic, which the linked thread describes in some detail. The dev-board contains some pre- and post amplifiers (TL7x op-amps) to adapt the Seed’s input- and output voltages to the euro rack world. The LEDs can be used for signalling purposes. The midi part is yet to be implemented. The display is the latest addition. Once I’ve got the vocoder running in a fashion I like I’ll start thinking about designing a module for it. Then the Dev board is free for new ideas, maybe I’ll convert it into a cheap ‘PATCH’. What projects do you have in mind? Have you started working on them?
6 Likes