I am making a modular DIY MIDI controller. The idea is to compartmentalize the PCB architecture so to reduce costs. Since a 100x100mm board is the cheapest offering by JLCPCB, I wanted to make it so that one can optimize for that. Additionally, the modular design i hope to eventually have is a plug n play style that lets you connect these to a hub such that it will let you have a custom setup thats modifiable.
Im calling it the Caustic Hotswap Controller.
This is my first sketch, and there is a lot of differences already to the architecture, but it outlines my motivations here. After this first run, im thinking that most of the control boards (the parts that plug into the hub) will be larger than 100x100mm, but because i think you can fit things in there better.
I like this idea, since this means that i can develop new control boards that are compatible for the same hub, and not have to attach the other bits of architecture to suit.
The last board i made supports sliding pots, and two versions of pcb mounted pots. Its more of a “can i do this” module, since there really isnt enough space to use them with knobs etc.
Oh, one other thing is, in addition to a generic setup, i want to also have control boards that are catered to specific software synthesizers. One thing i always find lacking when working with softsynths is a feeling of 1 to 1 in the placement of things.
The mapping of DIVA wont be one module per osc/envelope/filter type, but rather something that will map to all of them reasonably, with appropriate labels and assignments.
@Caustic I stopped using DAWs because moving virtual knobs with a mouse is weak sauce and mapping stuff to a generic line of pots was better but it also bugged me that it wasn’t a 1:1 translation. This is a rad solution, cant wait to see more progress
I always come back to DAWs because hardware has its limits. What can I say, I love the flexibility and immediacy of piano roll editing etc. Then I go to hardware because of some reason or another. Sometimes its as simple as lack of motivation / drive / inspiration.
Its all just a situation of getting you to the music, however you personally take the trip. Whatever can remove barriers.
I have come to terms with its all good, they all have their strengths and weaknesses and to not make excuses, make gear and music.
After taking an embarrassingly long time to figure out how to cut wooden cleats with a circular saw, I’ve got the first cabinet of my wall-o-synth complete. The idea is to have a few small cabinets mounted to cleats that slot into the wall that I can rearrange when needed or remove a case for transit. The green case, small speaker and the tiny desk are all cleat mounted to the plywood panel, with more cleat divisions coming. Now I have no excuse but to transfer all my breadboard noodling to module. Love how much fun V1 has been to figure out.
Q. Should I fill that hole that the power leads are coming through with hotglue? With my hackjob woodwork I think the hot wire might be touching bare wood somewhere in there…
Built the tayda looper pcb as a panel. Essentially it allows you to use a button to move between two different patches (note I forgot to put mounting holes in it.)
Far neater than my stripboard version. Cool idea. You could add it to the stomp box adapter.
I’d ask why the footswitch but I know 9 pin toggles are pricey. Fits nice with the board.
Umm… didn’t think of that till after I made it… Once you said it…
The foot switch is too stiff, any suggestions as to how to reduce the force required to engage / disengage it?
Sadly the only thing I can think of is a big lever or a button cover. Sadly the button resistance is mechanical. Give me a chance to ask a guitar tec I know who does special mods
Ok. 3 choices suggested.
1 replace with a 3PDT toggle switch.
2 hack open the switch and remove the spring.
3 add a ring, plate or hole in the plate to get a finger through so you can pinch the button.
Option 2 I have never done. Lots of gunk inside a tru-bypass but worth a go.
To reduce the force required, use the lever principle. Anchor a metal or wooden plate to the panel using a raised hinge. Use manual pressure on the free end of the plate to operate the foot switch by bringing the flat part of the plate to bear on the switch mechanism. A crude but serviceable hinge could be fashioned from a bolt and a few nuts and washers and a spring to stop the captive end of the plate flapping. Mount the bolt perpendicularly on the panel and use the other gear to turn the coupling between the bolt and the plate into a hinge.
