Double check the shipping from SynthCube. For whatever reason it costs a ridiculous amount of money to ship from where they are in MA to Denver. One 10hp eurorack PCB had the lowest ship rate available starting at $17. I tried contacting them to ask about it both on their site and on Reverb but no one ever responds.
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Hmm, I just tried and for shipping to zip 80014 I was quoted $7.19
But I can believe flaky software. Last sale I tried to place an order and it wouldnât recognize the coupon code. I emailed them and they said it was weird, the code was working for others. So their systems do seem to have some problems.
And they did reply promptly that time, but earlier this year when I contacted them about a delayed shipment I didnât hear from them until after about two weeks and multiple emails and phone messages.
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I had an issue when they switched payment systems and the order would just not go through. They got back to me in about three days, IIRC.
EDIT: Never mind, I realized that my issue was with Modular Addict.
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I canât seem to get Photoshop to open so I can crop the screenshots, but it was actually 2 face plates that I wanted and the total comes up as either $19.08 for UPS Ground or $20.28 for USPS Priority 2 day. The same order on Modular Addict is FedEx 2 day for $10 or USPS Priority 2 Day for $9.25. (Yes, I realize they are not in the same city.)
USPS flat rate padded envelope would be $7.75 or USPS flat rate box would be $13.08.
SynthCube has the same items on Reverb for sale. If I add the two that I want there and check out, the total for shipping is: $12.50
huh? Makes no sense.
I messaged them to ask why shipping from their site was so much more and no response. I tried messaging them on Reverb and no response. I tried again a few days later on their site and on Reverb and no response. That was 2 weeks ago. I have given up on them.
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Nope, for two 10HP front panels to any of several Denver Zip Codes it still comes up as $7.19 for me. Thatâs First Class USPS. $10.62 for USPS Priority 2 Day and, same as yours, $19.08 for UPS Ground. Somethingâs definitely weird.
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Given that I have 2 racks now I made another one, this time with a yellow display, but added a 2nd jack which is meant to be a thru, so that one can connect it wherever one likes without needing an external multiple.
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I want to have one, itâs absolutely fantastic! Is it possible that you create a stripboard layout for this? And when will it be finished?
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super, hope itâs working ok for you ⌠Itâs realy useful in my small âtestâ case.
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Oh man it works great 
I genuinely like it hehe
Itâs replacing my old diy 4 channel that never worked properly 
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Finished an 8 channel mixer, derived from https://duskwork.net/projects-296561/4-channel-mixer-v12
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SuperâŚ
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Hello Friends.
I finally got around to working on a panel for my first module AS3340. A local sign shop was nice enough to give me some of their scrap 1mm aluminum panel. There is a bit of flex in it but should be plenty sturdy when I get it into the yet to be built case.
I had a go at a toner transfer process for the design using plain old glossy magazine paper. Itâs a super dodgy transfer but considering it cost nothing Iâm fine with it. Iâll probably design around an eroded/disintegrated aesthetic. Features not bugs.
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That is how I get all my panels. My brother works at a sign shop and the aluminum comes out of the scrap bin and he cuts it to size for me. Then I give him back my botched pieces where I measured wrong so they can recycle them.
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I figured out that I could clamp my jigsaw to a pair of saw horses upside down and use it as a makeshift band saw. I can make relatively straight cuts. Looks hella dangerous thoughâŚ
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Sounds terrifying. Please be careful.
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Can you elaborate on that?
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Basically you print your design on some glossy paper (magazine pages are cheapest, but photo paper is more reliable), on a laser printer (wonât work with an ink-jet printer) then put that sheet of paper with the printed side on your support (faceplate or⌠PCB !), and use a hot iron to transfer the toner to the support (the toner will melt and stick to the support because it doesnât adhere well to the glossy paper).
Donât forget to print in mirrored mode
Google will give you a lot of explanations, from the most basic, up to modifying a laser printer to print directly on PCB board.
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I did a little experimenting with a variant of toner transfer that uses polyurethane to dissolve the toner and bind it to the surface instead of heat. I was getting some transfer to occur, but only some, and the results were very ratty looking. But that was just a couple of attempts. Continuing practice might have made perfect, but I switched instead to a variation of Ray Wilsonâs method for making panels: He used contact cement to glue a laminated printed piece of paper to the panel, I use spray adhesive and instead of laminating the paper I cover the printed side after gluing with self adhesive clear plastic. The spray adhesiveâs less messy and the single layer of plastic makes the panel much thinner than lamination (which made it so thick I had trouble screwing on 3.5 mm jacks). Hereâs a recent video about my process.
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I wanted to try that heat toner transfer for a stomp box design but was too afraid to mess up my printer (or even a company one). I just saw that you can buy special paper rather than using the base paper from stickers.
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