My build progress

I had some boards made up for my Trancendent 2000 Eurorack build made recently. Here’s a test of the VCF.

The control inputs still need a bit of work, but the filter itself appears (sounds ) to be working really well. I’m really enjoying how the resonance moves into distortion at high levels. I’m not sure how that compares to the original. I also just realised that I have the resonance and cut off controls swapped. Oops.

(Hoping the YouTube link works - never done one here before).


Just put the YouTube link on a line by itself, no brackets or other stuff. It’ll embed.


Hero VCO built on revised PCBs — not thoroughly tested yet but looks good so far. Maybe I got the boards right this time! Or right enough.


I started working on a few classical types of filters. The MS20 is one of them. I just finished soldering everything together.

Now for some rigorous testing …



Quite happy with my progress! S&Hold, precision adder and Turing machine work really well, I have really strange behavior on the lattice (mutable grids clone) and I have not yet written any code for the quantizer. So, yes, the problems begin when the arduinos come in :wink:


Did you see my Halting Machine comment on Github? The clock LED cathode is unconnected in the schematic and PCB layout.

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A lot of 3D printing experiments for future panels today. When I start working on a bigger system than the one documented in my CMOS synth thread, I’d love for it to have a Y2K translucent aesthetic, with LEDs underneath diffused by the panel. What’s the point of DIY electronics if you won’t even show off the electronics themselves, innit?

Older experiments at the top, today’s series at the bottom. All are deburred but none are sanded. I’m changing only 1 parameter each experiment.

I’m using this post to dial in my settings—there’s a lot of contradictory advice online about how to achieve the best translucency, but this post has the least worst info. The high impact factors are to use PETG, print hotter than the filament is rated (I go up to the limit of my hotend, 260°C), disable part cooling, never alternate patterns on any layer, have 100% infill, print as slow as possible (it hurts), and use small layer height (there’s contradictory info about this, but example 4 shows 0.2mm layers look much worse than 0.1mm)

I hope I can improve it further. Remains to be seen how impact-resistant it is once it’s a 20cm tall panel, because if I can’t make it strong… Might as well look into cutting acrylic.


No, I have missed it, thank you for spotting it!
edit: fixed it up :slight_smile:


MS20-Filt-O-Matic has passed the test, so I treated the contraption with a front panel!

I added two experimental bits to this renditon of the MS20 filter. A switch that makes it possible to choose between 2 LEDS or 2 chains of diodes to restrict the resonance. For some reason I thought that could make a tonal difference, but I can only hear amplitude differences when switching between them. So in v0.2 I will leave the switch out, I think.
The vactrol I added to the circuit allows for some control of the resonance, which is a nice extra to have.

I will put the schematic an gerbers on my github in the coming days.


After much work and failure, and tinker, I finally got my single 4U coco clone working!

Here be the schematics…


How do I know it works… I own and fully restored a 20 year old cocolase recently, as well as own a cocov2 :slight_smile:

My clone is kinda a v1.5, as I used the v1 as the basis of it and added all of the mods peter figured out over the years to the looper section, but left out the altered dolby cargocult in favor of the original version. :slight_smile:


Haha nice one @d42kn355 I like your flow charts :laughing:

Today I finally had a bit of free time and finished a (little bit sloppy) PCB layout of the LMNC Quad VCA 1183 in a 100mm x 100mm format (i might build a small eurorack-format case due to lack of space :wink: )
Nothing ground breaking but at least “progress”.


Crazy, funky, and I don’t understand it at all. I love it.


Thinking of putting my modules in one of these flight cases, not sure how to attach the supports of the face plates. I could just put strips of wood across and screw them in from the outside, but is there a cleaner way?


Maybe build a wooden structure and glue it in?
Will the lid have clearance for knobs/switches??


Good idea, just doubled check the knob clearance, good idea! Pulled out the bottom padding and it should just fit


i have a little test case ( never finished ) just hot glued two strips of wood and it was fine.


its an 8 bit looping delay utilizing logic and RAM :smiley:


I suppose this probably means something to somebody


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“it is an expander”


I was showing someone how the dolby cargocult preamps work by enveloping an audio event and noise gating whatever was in the buffer.

figured i’d share it here too :slight_smile: