I had some boards made up for my Trancendent 2000 Eurorack build made recently. Here’s a test of the VCF.
The control inputs still need a bit of work, but the filter itself appears (sounds ) to be working really well. I’m really enjoying how the resonance moves into distortion at high levels. I’m not sure how that compares to the original. I also just realised that I have the resonance and cut off controls swapped. Oops.
(Hoping the YouTube link works - never done one here before).
Quite happy with my progress! S&Hold, precision adder and Turing machine work really well, I have really strange behavior on the lattice (mutable grids clone) and I have not yet written any code for the quantizer. So, yes, the problems begin when the arduinos come in
A lot of 3D printing experiments for future panels today. When I start working on a bigger system than the one documented in my CMOS synth thread, I’d love for it to have a Y2K translucent aesthetic, with LEDs underneath diffused by the panel. What’s the point of DIY electronics if you won’t even show off the electronics themselves, innit?
Older experiments at the top, today’s series at the bottom. All are deburred but none are sanded. I’m changing only 1 parameter each experiment.
I’m using this post to dial in my settings—there’s a lot of contradictory advice online about how to achieve the best translucency, but this post has the least worst info. The high impact factors are to use PETG, print hotter than the filament is rated (I go up to the limit of my hotend, 260°C), disable part cooling, never alternate patterns on any layer, have 100% infill, print as slow as possible (it hurts), and use small layer height (there’s contradictory info about this, but example 4 shows 0.2mm layers look much worse than 0.1mm)
I hope I can improve it further. Remains to be seen how impact-resistant it is once it’s a 20cm tall panel, because if I can’t make it strong… Might as well look into cutting acrylic.
I added two experimental bits to this renditon of the MS20 filter. A switch that makes it possible to choose between 2 LEDS or 2 chains of diodes to restrict the resonance. For some reason I thought that could make a tonal difference, but I can only hear amplitude differences when switching between them. So in v0.2 I will leave the switch out, I think.
The vactrol I added to the circuit allows for some control of the resonance, which is a nice extra to have.
I will put the schematic an gerbers on my github in the coming days.
How do I know it works… I own and fully restored a 20 year old cocolase recently, as well as own a cocov2
My clone is kinda a v1.5, as I used the v1 as the basis of it and added all of the mods peter figured out over the years to the looper section, but left out the altered dolby cargocult in favor of the original version.
Today I finally had a bit of free time and finished a (little bit sloppy) PCB layout of the LMNC Quad VCA 1183 in a 100mm x 100mm format (i might build a small eurorack-format case due to lack of space )
Nothing ground breaking but at least “progress”.
Thinking of putting my modules in one of these flight cases, not sure how to attach the supports of the face plates. I could just put strips of wood across and screw them in from the outside, but is there a cleaner way?