Yes a very nice build 
Me today iāve tested 2 VCAs and my Utility mix (2xPositivizer + 2x Attenuverter + 1 Glide CV) and all is good !
Now iām on the calibration of the Active Real Ring Modulator
Soon the end of theese test, I will be able to install them, prepare the articles and videos for my blog and after looking forward to making music with these new modules 
Thank you!
It took me some time to figure how to make nice panels. I will probably post something about that.
The clock is a very simple design:
I added an Arduino to control the 7 seg display
How I proceed for my panels:
I got a couple of valves from a mate today so I was able to finish up the safety valve. I tell you it is a distortion beast.
Got to building and testing my PCB! Look at that cute lil guy!
It slews, up/both/down slew toggle works (though I accidentally popped in momentary switch instead of one that stays in place, and I seem to have reversed the up and down. Dāoh!), And the pot changes slew amount like expected. So, thatās all a pretty big win!
For the āwhat doesnāt workā bit, as soon as I turn the pot from completely counter clockwise up at all, engaging the slew, pitch goes off. It doesnāt quite reach the upper pitch, staying a little bit flat once it gets up the the top. The bottom note might be off too, but I need to experiment and test. Only had a couple minutes yesterday and was going to do more this morning, but the kids been up with me since 6am having a bit of a tough go. Hopefully I can dig in more tonight but honestly Iām just happy and surprised it works at all!
I have some thoughts on revisions anyway so Iām actually kind of glad about the reversed pot - gives me a reason to fix the other little things anyway. But first gotta figure out the pitch issue.
edit: Chatting with someone else, Iām thinking maybe I donāt have a pitch issue and itās an error in the way I was testing. Long story short, when I was away I loaned my modular rig to my brother-in-law to play with. I dislocated my kneecap yesterday and picked up my rig, but the synth room is upstairs. Managed to haul the case up but due to the stairs being painful to climb, I didnāt make a trip back to grab my keyboard. So instead of pitch CV from the keyboard I was testing with a square wave LFO. I thought this would work fine but am getting a bit of a lesson in why it might not have. So, hopefully after work today I can get my ass back upstairs with the keyboard and try again. Maybe not an issue after all.
As for changes with the board that I mentioned, may as well flesh that out a bit in case anybody has any thoughts. The build was completely fine for me, but there were a couple annoying things that I think I could sort out. Once everything is working and I sort out any issues Iāll be sharing the files so I want it to be as simple as possible for others to build. So the two problems
I put caps and diodes around the switch which isnāt really a big deal but it made the switch more annoying to solder than it needs to be. I think I could move everything on the bottom half of the board down a bit which would give more space for the diodes, then move the caps up a bit and leave better access around the switch. I think that should be easy enough to do and would make things a bit nicer.
Anybody notice a problem with my polarized cap placement? I put the two right by the power header then the other two right by the TL072 like I think I should, but if youāre building like I normally do (and how I see recommended) - resistors > diodes > IC sockets > disc capacitors > polarized capacitors > power header - the placement of the caps makes the board into a teeter totter and is annoying to solder. At the worst case scenario itās not even a big deal and depending on the order you solder it might not be a problem at all, but for the sake of making this as beginner friendly as possible Iād like to fix that. If I moved the polarized caps by the TL072 down to the bottom of the board - maybe one beside the input jack and the other beside the output jack - that would balance much better. Would that be alright, or would they be too far away? Alternatively, I could pop them on the other side and they can be bent towards the board. Had to do that on a few builds and donāt mind it. Or just leave it. Any thoughts?
Nice to see your build progressing. Without a schematic I am going to assume the IC is an opamp, these should always have a pair of 100nF caps from the power pins of the IC to ground, located as close as possible to the ic, i.e where your resistors are located.
Here is what Iāve built it off of and attached is the schematic that I made.
Doing some digging today I realized that I messed up two resistors on my board. So the schematic is right (I think) then the red text is what I have installed on my board. So Iāll fix that either tonight or tomorrow and maybe thatāll fix my voltage drop issue. Then it also looks to me like I have the pins on the pot reversed. So Iāll also try swapping those two around with wiring a pot and see what that does. My assumption would have been if I swapped those pins it shouldnāt work at all but it does, maybe thats why my rise and fall on the toggle switch are swapped? (edit: ignore that, twas a silly thought) Obviously thereās a lack of knowledge here.
I was able to do more testing this morning quickly a/b-ing against the stripboard slew limiter. So first, the stripboard works like I thought it should have with the LFO, so scratch that being the problem. Second, after pluging in the stripboard build, I realized that itās not just that the PCB build isnāt hitting the proper high voltage, it also drops the voltage down in general so the pitch is off. No point mucking about too much until I get that sorted out, so Iāll fix the two resistors, experiment on switching the pot pins, then troubleshoot from there if nescessary.
Schematic and panel are ready, all parts are prepared: let the fun begin 
C1 and C3 should be located near the power header. Not necessarily right up against it, within a couple cm.
C5 and C6 donāt need to be near the op amp, if itās more convenient to have them somewhere else.
You can always solder in a different order if it suits you. I usually do power connector before electrolytics. The idea is to go from lowest to highest but the box header and the electrolytics usually are pretty similar in height. The electrolytics can be held in place by bending the leads while the header needs to be either held down with tape or something or resting on the workbench with the PCB resting on top of it, and the caps can get in the way of that.
Awesome, thanks! Yeah, could have avoided the annoyance all together by soldering in a different order and Iād I rebuilt it again I would. Less about that, more about wanting it to be easy for anyone else who might build it without having to give any additional notes. Plus being my first one and a very simple schematic, itās probably not a bad idea to tweak and work with it to make it the best I can to apply ideas to future builds!
Spent a bit of time this afternoon moving stuff around. Little bit haphazardly - didnāt want to spend too much effort until I got some clarification, and also until I swap the resistors to see if that fixes my problem or if thereās something else.
But I think this is an improvement - left is old, right is new.
edit: Fixing the resistor values worked!!! My first PCB officially works, I just dummied the build! Except the reversed switch. Damn. Well, on to revise the board and fix the panel!
Designed Graphics for Rev. 1 of the CGS29 Wave Multipliers
Finished up a Duber case for a friend
Ohhh! very nice! That is a fancy stick! you could pilot a ābank and yankā rc plane (3 Axis) with that =P
iv been wondering about using my Taranis for something synthy, either when i upgrade my gimbals (leaving me with a spare set) or finding a way to hook it up to a module to do CV or presets.
May be ill make Kosmo (real living human being) and animate him with it XD since its all just arduino and PWM =P
The Mini ADSR is now in the rack. I found some Acid hiding in the modules so I caught it on video. 
Anyone remember @lookmumnocomputerās video on the Solaris 50?
Ever since Iāve been thinking on how to recreate those cool semi-transparent vactrols. Hereās my attempt using a PIR fresnel lens. Iāll get them fabricated and experiment with different LEDs and LDRs. My first thought is to build @EddyBergmanās LPG with them.
Yeah, this thing fascinated me too.
Sounds interesting. The LPG is certainly a cool project to try them on!
Hi everyone.
Did this video about my build progress with 2x2xVCA.
I think my next module will be the 4xdecay by bartone musical circuits, could be useful and nothing fancy in the component list 
Today I got a free AllPCB order as they seem to be giving out free PCBs again, albeit sporadically. I ordered white solder mask, just for a changeā¦ And then when I came to solder it I realised why I never order white solder mask(oof those burn marks).
Itās designed to be a flexible(solid FR4) 3340 VCO board where you can only solder up the components you need and leave out features you donāt want. It can fit behind a Kosmo or Eurorack panel or in an enclosure, which I think is really handy for a simple bench oscillator, or for someone getting into modular who doesnāt want to shell out a relatively large sum of money for a case.
Iāve been trying to get rid of a pile of massive 2W resistors that I was given which can prove to be a challenge sometimes but it worked OK here because they arenāt packed that closely together. Also I donāt have any of the nice multiturn trimmers so I had to get creative with the mounting.
The usual files are on Github as always:
Breakout boards for 3340s are a great idea!
