I havent had to use any interrupts with my encoders either. If I were to use an IO expander like an MCP23017, then it might be needed, but I have had no problems without them.
I was driving 2 SSD1306 screens as well, so I think it’s overkill.
I’ve finish to mod my arduino 8 step keyboard sequencer with the @analogoutput version and everything works well !!!
Today I rewired the MS20 filter mentioned yesterday so that it fits on the panel. Tomorrow just stick on the foil and then it will be time again to play with the built things
I hope my Tayda order arrives after an endlessly long wait so that I can finally finish building my midi thru box
Had a very productive day. I built a mixer (second from left) and added pulse-width support to my VCO (left). This is all I have built so far. The modules on the right are my output module and a passive attenuator.
I just ordered a 84HP 6U eurorack frame so I have plenty of space to fill. First I’m going to make a quick stand for it and later work on a proper case.
The only thing I’m unsure about is the use of 2mm MDF for my front-panels. I’ve designed it and ordered it to be laser cut at a local company. It is a bit bendy and my jack sockets sometimes don’t cooperate, so there is a risk of breaking the panels :
I would really like to go for a wood-like look, but my jack sockets don’t allow to be mounted on thick wood (2.5mm max I’d say). Any tips would be appreciated.
With a Forstner bit and preferably a drill press you can thin the area around a jack hole:
which of course is exactly where the stresses are largest, so maybe you increase the likelihood of breaking the wood with insertion force, but at least the panel will bend less.
You can find very strong and nice plywood in 2mm.
It is often called aviation plywood, but I don’t know the “real” name.
Sure it is more expensive than MDF, but the total for all panels will still be reasonable.
First google hit in France (birch plywood):
49cm x 98cm = ~20€, that’s three rows of about 190HP… or 570HP total…
You could try gluing reinforcing strips along the length of the panels where there’s space. Some epoxy and a length of a stiff rod (could be metal, could be dowel) would help a lot. I’ve been 3D printing my panels to about 1.4mm but then having 5mm ridges to provide the extra rigidity which is pretty much the same situation.
Todays work!
Then collect the components for the @ChristianBloch´s Stomp Box Adapter and design a panel for it.
Can the 3340VCO also be hard synced? And if so, does anyone have a schematic or a stripboard layout for it?
Note that the 3340 sync inputs are slightly weird. The original CEM3340 datasheet has a discussion and some sample schematics, if you want more “normal” sync inputs, see here:
Oh man! Datasheet … I could have figured it out myself, sometimes I’m a * dumbass *
THX a lot mate !
I made another (simple) mixer. Its a double one where one of them provides a sum only and the other a sum and a negative sum of their respective input signals:
Need to build that 2nd case. Finishing up another performance VCO, and have been working on a big button/wav trigger module,etc.
I’m building a small storage thingy for my “physical music”. All the parts are finished, now I need to assemble them !
Satisfyingly precise panel labeling.
-Fumu / Esopus
My work today
And I have to announce something. I’m officially in love! This is my first module with large jack sockets and it just feels sooo much more correct than small cables! About 5 modules left, then my rack is full anyway, then I can finally start with KOSMO - in this case bigger is simply better.
I like that big button design! I might do something similar.
Looks great! Did you make those panels?
For each good panel, there is a panel in the junk pile.
