VC Xfade/VCA
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Yep! From 3 300*2000*18mm European beech (?? Hêtre in French) planks and a birch plywood panel for the back.
Faders are soooo sexy !!! 
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300200018
(Tip: discourse uses markdown which considers two * in the same paragraph as italics markup. If you put a \ before each * it doesn’t do that (so if you write 300\*2000\*18 it shows up as 300*2000*18.)
(Or you can use × instead. Feel free to copy that one if you don’t have it on your keyboard 
)
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Got a couple in my upcoming parts order, I want to see about how to design for them.
I like big knobs, but sliders are cool too.
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Faders look cool, but when they are mounted on a vertical panel I find them awkward to use.
It’s different on an horizontal surface, like a mixer. They are easier to manipulate than on a vertical surface, and the visual cue about their relative positions are a great bonus…
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(oh whoops, I was on my phone, so no preview…)
Theyre fun to design around, it can be done a couple of ways -
one example being my xfade -
Switches and standoffs keep the control board in place and 15mm levers on the PTL60’s allow for a nice reach through the panel 
Or like how @CTorp did - Slide pots mount on the front panel - do not need as long of a lever on it - but then you have to play with how you mount your headers on the boards.
Very excited to see what YOU come up with for a slider module 
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@analogoutput
Nice work!
I also built it a few days ago and it is the first VCA that does what it is supposed to do, namely DO NOT let any sound through if I don’t want it :). However, everyone else I built was also passive.
I got my Tayda order today and was able to finish my Erica Synths Polivoks ADSR. Also the circuit board for my midi thru box, tomorrow I have to drill the housing.
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^
I just managed to design and build a 8hp eurorack module with noise source with low-pass filter, 2-to-1 mixer, 1-to-2 passive splitter, an attenuverter, frequency splitter with one and two octave downs (4013 square waves), and a full-wave rectifier for a octave up.
Maybe not the most bestest solution for usability, but oh well…
I just managed to design and build a 8hp eurorack module with noise source with low-pass filter, 2-to-1 mixer, 1-to-2 passive splitter, an attenuverter, frequency splitter with one and two octave downs (4013 square waves), and a full-wave rectifier for a octave up.
Maybe not the most bestest solution for usability, but oh well…
14 Likes
You can officially call me “Super Dickhead” today.
I built the midi thru box and it didn’t work. I knew 100% that my circuit board and my soldering points were OK. I’ve double and triple checked everything. I was about to give up when I accidentally plugged the midi cable from the Beatstep back into the Volca. And noticed that nothing was arriving there either, so I checked again and noticed that my midi cable was in the input instead of in the output … I’m sooo a complete idiot ey !! This little mistake cost me 2.5 hours, because in the meantime I had unsoldered all the sockets from the circuit board … Well, tomorrow I have to install a switch and fix the USB socket.
For the second MidiBox I don’t have a laptop power supply case , but a purchased one.
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If you add an LED to the input signal (as I suggested in another thread), next time you will spot a mistake like that immediately.
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I had already read your last answer with the tip, but not yet answered, I’m a little confused at the moment, my dog is very sick :(. Of course, I thank you for the tip. I tested it yesterday with the second version, the LED was simply on all the time, regardless of whether I had midi connected or not, but it was already late, so I’ll test it again now.
Anyway, after a long time I’m happy to have the box, finally I can sequence MicroBrute and Volca Keys via Beatstep Pro. AND Volca Sample with the Pajen firmware via the drum sequencer from the BSP, that makes jamming so many easier.
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I finished the MS-20 with high-pass switch.
At first I used a single bipolar LED, but that didn’t work, so I replaced it with two blue leds (one is behind the panel, because I didn’t want to drill another hole in the panel).
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Happy that’s work and yes in this schem the leds play an important role with their reverse positivity connection (for resonance i think) and cannot be replaced by a single bipolar one.
must be work with diode too or other color led with little sound change i suppose. I use red one.
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Love the retro science lab look!
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An untried panel is a mistake. Trying is the path that curves to precision.
-Fumu / Esopus
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What’s wrong with 75mm - most of my DIY Kosmo modules are 75mm. My 3 Filters, both of my 3340 VCO’s and my midibox sequencer interface are all 75mm. The “spec” just says “multiples of 2.5cm” as far as I see. And 75mm is just 3 2.5cm units. Sam may not have produced any 75mm modules but I think it’s about the perfect size for most things. 50mm is a bit tight for a lot of things…and 100mm is too tempting to cram too much in there 
I say we need more 75mm modules 
That said…I probably would have gone 100mm on that particular one because 4 jacks across in 75mm IS a bit cramped for my tastes But I also tend to like multiples of 3’s and most of my modules are therefore setup with 3 columns for jacks/knobs/switches which I find very pleasing at 75mm.
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