If you put 0 V in you should get 0 V out. Actually probably a few mV due to op amp offset but that’s not a big deal.
If you put 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 V in (plug in a CV keyboard or MIDI/CV, then play C in various octaves on the keyboard) you should get 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 V out. Or more accurately, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 V higher than what you get with 0 V. Use the trimmer to get that the best you can.
thx i go do that ! (more carac…)
EDIT : 1V/octave = ok 
So I finally built the dual LFO I designed back in December and here’s the result 
Well I just have to figure out some resistors value (for offset and gain) and wait for my TL074 to arrive.
(And no I’m not naked my shirt is just pink) 
I tested the ARP2600 Envelope Follower by @EddyBergman, everything work, just i find the Env Output level very low.
i will check it tomorrow
@Dud It depends on which input you use. Pre-amplified or not pre-amplified. Be sure to check all three inputs.
I think Braids and Clouds are about the same in difficulty. Peaks is a very easy module to build as are Ripples and Warps.
I’ve been using this hot air station without any issues for about 9 months now. It was $49 (US.)
This is the solder paste I use ($20 US):
Instead of a microscope I use these and love them ($18 US):
Make sure that you have a decent pair of very fine tip tweezers. These were the ones that I bought but they dont sell them anymore. I think they were $6.50 (US.)
To be honest, I don’t even own a flux pen. Never used one. I have some flux paste I got a long time ago and when I need to fix bridges I put a little on a toothpick and put it on where I need it. It melts instantly if I have been working on a chip already. I usually clean all of my boards when I am finished regardless with a toothbrush and 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. I scrub everything really well with the alcohol and rinse the board in distilled water. (Water needs to be distilled and free from ions.)
Aside from this, the thing I will say to watch out for is that there are a couple of boards where the orientation of some capacitors is not very clear and on one board there were pads on the board that didn’t have any number assigned to them so I had to figure those out. I did program all of my boards EXCEPT for Grids, which uses an AtMega328P chip. I still can’t figure out how to program that board yet. 
I have built most of the MI modules and have built many of them multiple times so if you have any questions about them just ask.
I have chosen a similar one, with the same handle, there are many of them.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/402335835245?var=0
I recently bought a set with many different ones.
But for the solder paste you need a special stencil, don’t you? For how many is this paste enough? It’s not necessarily cheap either …
I’ve already looked at something like that because I also think I’d rather look directly where I work instead of looking at a monitor. But I wasn’t sure if that was enough. Let’s see how I get on with the microscope
You can rely on it 
many thanks !
You don’t have to use a stencil with the Kester solder paste. I have used the same paste both with and without stencils. If I am not using a stencil then I prefer to put a small bit in a container and use a toothpick to place the solder on each pad that way. You literally only need the size of a pen point.
It comparison to some other brands it may seem pricey. However, the quality of the paste that you use will make a difference and it can determine if your board fails or is successful. For instance, with this paste I don’t need to be 100% exact when placing SMD components on the pads because once I heat it up the part will move itself perfectly into position. With the cheaper paste that I had this was not the case. Unfortunately, I learned this lesson of buying cheap paste the hard way. Now I will only buy this paste.
To answer your other question, I probably built 25 boards off of a single container.
I finished the Octo VCO as a Kosmo module, see Polykit Octo VCO if you are interested in schematics and PCB layout on GitHub.
I added a switch to run two oscillators in unison mode, a overall tune and pw knob and a mixer (yet to come). The mixer is for unison mode over all eight oscillators. I mainly did this to not block the mixers I have in my setup.
Now I know why they went for DCOs at some point, to get all oscillators in tune was really a tough one.
Nice build! Have you noticed pitch changes caused by temperature drift during (long) operation?
Yes, it drifts and takes at least 15 minutes to get it to an “operational” temperature where tuning is stable. So best is to keep it always switched on 
We currently have like 0°C at day here in Berlin and when I open the window next to it tune changes significantly.
That’s with matched transistors and a tempco resistor?
It uses BC847BS dual transistors and NTC resistors for temperature compensation.
Here in Kassel we have 2°C and when i turn on my MicroBrute with open window dann hab ick dit ooch,wa!
Fucking awesome! Don’t just tease me with a picture, let’s hear it!!!
I added another example to the thread Polykit Octo VCO
The joys of discovering there exists an sot-363 part that contains an NPN/PNP pair set up perfectly to make astable multivibrators with 
This looks awesome! Nicely done!
I know in your thread on this you said that you had a couple of minor design flaws that you were able to fix without needing a new PCB to be produced. Are the files on your GitHub the corrected files or are they the original files?
edit: sorry…I just saw in your post on your thread that you had already answered my question and corrected the files. Apologies
A bit messy, but nobody sees it 
. Another 9 cables tomorrow and then it’s ready. The panel design is still missing, of course, it’s already finished, I just have to print it on foil and stick it on. But I have to make at least 2 more designs beforehand, because otherwise I have to dispose of so much film …
By the way, this is my soldering tip, it is still the first that came with the device (24 € on Amazon). I kept tinning the tip ALWAYS when I turned the device off. I think that makes a lot of difference. It still looks like new and still soldering like the first day. So it doesn’t have to be a soldering station for hundreds of euros.
