Hey, I am planning to make a KOSMO version of Mutable instruments Grids for easy drum sequencing.
Can I do it in 10 cm width? Or do I need 15cm? I really like to have space, but I am also getting close to filling up all my cases! (I know, I know, I should build a new case, but my room is small! 
)
I think I might get away with the 10cm, itās only 3 knobs per row, like Samās delay, but that one does feel a little bit crowdedā¦ Also: 10cm is cheaper
Opinions?
In my opinion 15cm looks better.
Thereās always a middle ground at 12.5cm
Iām not familiar with the original, and I think it depends on what the knobs do and on how you plan to use them. My preference is for knobs to be large enough and well spaced enough that you can easily grab and manipulate one, or even two adjacent ones simultaneously, in the course of playing. But some knobs are more amenable to being played than others, some youād rarely if ever want to move during playing, and those can be smaller and closer together.
The apparent discordance in the 10 cm version between the jacks, which I guess go 1-2-3 left to right, and the knobs which go 1-2-3 top to bottom, is unfortunate. Soās the disconnect between the X, Y, Chaos knobs with the corresponding jacks.
If you go with 15 cm, though, the Furies will come after you if you donāt fix the misalignment between the Clock and 1 knobs, and between X and 3.
I was thinking about that, and that if it were 12.5 cm you could swap the X/Y/Chaos jacks with the 1/2/3 knobs, putting the former next to their corresponding knobs (maybe jacks on the left and knobs on the right if youāre right handed). Then transpose the Fill/Trig/Acc jacks so they also go 1-2-3 top to bottom. But then I realized those jacks are too close together vertically to put a knob on the same row, so it doesnāt quite work. And with that said, I donāt see that you can get much out of going to 12.5 cm ā you can make the knobs a little further apart horizontally but theyāre still pretty close vertically.
Good input! I think I will mostly use the 1,2,3 Knobs (they determine the density of the drum pattern, how many notes are in pattern, 1 is kick, 2 snare, 3 hihats) and also the knobs with X and Y (they change the groove itself, like two coordinates on a āgroove mapā) I wonāt change the clock speed very often (if at all, because it will be synced to a main clock), so maybe I could use a tiny knob (no knob plastic shaft) instead and then move the other knobs further apartā¦
Personally I think that looks great except for:
Thank you!
Yeah, CHAOS upside down was a bit of a stupid joke, because, you know, itās chaos
You are right with the trigger leds, the issue is too that the fill jacks are inputs, not outputs, this is not really clear here. maybe I need to find another place for the LEDs at least.
Interesting idea moving the knobs to the top, but I fear that would break the match between the 1,2,3 knobs and the outputs a little.
Iād advocate putting the clock knob next to the clock jack. From the original panel I see the hole next to it isnāt an LED as I thought but a push button. Is that hole big enough?
Also in the original the LEDs are above the Fill jacksā¦ but yes, they could go further down. Iād normally use 5 mm but given the tight space I think Iād go with 3 mm here.
Iād change around the left-right order of the top knobs or the top-bottom order of the left jacks to make them match.
Quick AO style version:
Can you put the clock and reset jacks on the left hand side so you donāt have cords hanging over the controls?
Or underneath the controls would be nice?
Like this? 
You can but
If itās not on the top row, itās likely to have cords hanging over it anyway. Thatās the nature of things. You could ditch the cords and design for matrix switching a la the ARP 2500 but that has other issues. Someday someoneās going to make a bazillion dollars in the Eurorack market with little tiny paired wireless dongles you plug into the source and destination modules, but not today.
Iām getting close to how I want it 
Still not sure about the placement of the labelsā¦ left, top bottom?
Consider using small pictograms as an alternative to squeezing in sideways-oriented text.
Also @fredrik posted these resources once:
I particularly recommend the Patch and Tweak symbols, which are available as vector (SVG) files so they can be resized easily.
I generally like symbols and pictograms, but I think itās difficult to use when there is no common language for this domain yet. I mean, it could work for inputs and outputs and maybe also clock, but for trigger, accent and fill? I donāt want to spend another year to invent a universal modular symbol language before I can make this By the way, I have a toaster at home that has 4 buttons with symbols, of which I understand 2 (start and stop), the other two I have no idea, one has a snowflake and the other one a toast with some waves (heat?) aboveā¦ They seem to make no difference to the bread, even after 4 years and a lot of experiments I still have no idea what these symbols mean
This is what I ended up with so far. The routing is almost done as well, but I it will still be some time before I order, because I want to finish some other projects first and then do a big order Files will be on github once I tested it (can also upload it earlier if someone wants to risk it and find the mistakes for me )
EDIT: I also would like to credit mutable instruments on the panel, but I donāt want to just use their logo but I also donāt want to write a lot of text explaining that this is a derivative. How do you handle this?
On my toaster oven you can tell it the bread/bagel/etc. is frozen and it modifies the cycle to account for that, and itās indicated with a snowflake icon.
See above
