"k25 series” 2.5cm Kosmo Utilities

On my side I soldered them crooked, there is enough play with the jacks, I’m not even bending any of the pins.

One thing that I would note that is not on the BOM’s is that the bipolar LEDs Cory is using are 2 pin. All of the bipolar LEDs that I have already are either 3pin CC or 3pin CA so I have to order some different ones.

There are 2 modules that use them. The AR/EG and the Attenuverter.

LFO too. tiny

Where did you see that the LFO uses a bipolar LED? On the PCB it just signifies a regular LED. Is it in the BOM or schematic that I missed? (Checking because otherwise I need to redo the LED on it.)

image

1 Like

oh man…looks like I have some desoldering to do. Glad I asked. I will look at all of the other schematics to make sure there are not any others that were mis-labeled on the PCB. Thanks!

I mean, it’s not like it won’t work with a single color LED. Just it’ll flash on and off instead of red and green.

2 Likes

Yes, but what’s the fun in that? :wink: It’s not that big of a deal. Looks like the LFO is the only one mis-labeled. So those 3 modules use bipolar LEDs. Other modules are regular LEDs.

AR/EG
Attenuvert
LFO

3 Likes

By the way, there is a KiCad symbol for these things:
image

6 Likes

I breadboarded the LFO, partly to verify it and partly to figure out which way around I wanted the LED. Seems to work, though it looks like the triangle wave gets untriangular at the high frequency end. No big deal. I’ll go ahead and solder this up soon.

In case anyone wonders, I get frequency ranges of 0.014 to 2.5 Hz in the LOW switch position and 1.4 to 250 Hz in the HIGH position.

5 Likes

I just put the bipolars in every module anyway. I like the look and they are the ones Sam uses in his modules so most have them already. I’ll add the clarification to my list of corrections. Thanks @popflier @analogoutput

5 Likes

Wait, what? I’m confused. Off the top of my head I only remember Sam using a bipolar LED in one, maybe two, modules? Do some of his modules support bipolar LEDs even though they don’t say it on the BOM? If so then I never knew that. I have a billion bipolar and RGB LEDs of various sizes and colors from all of the MI modules I’ve built. They almost entirely use 3 pin so I’ve never had a need to buy 2 pin since nothing else I have built uses them, that I’m aware of.

There’s no sense in using a 2-lead bicolor to indicate a gate or a trigger or a control voltage that is always positive, unless of course you have a pile of them you’re trying to get rid of. On the other hand, for a control voltage that can go either way, you might as well use one — whether the BOM/schematic/PCB says to or not. LFO outputs, oscillator or filter (but probably not VCA) CV inputs, multiple or attenuator or attenuverter inputs or outputs, stuff like that.

3-lead bicolors are very different — they’re used with two different signals, both positive (or both negative). 2-leads are used to display a single signal that can be positive and negative.

5 Likes

Earned its knobs!

The triangle wave looks fine at all wavelengths now. Must have been a breadboard thing.

2 Likes

For LMnC, the OBA, filter GRR, and buffered mult use the bipolar.

I like them cause I can just choose red or green if I the schem calls for for a regular led

4 Likes

Hello!
I just wanted to drop by and say thank you for these modules!
The Sub sounds great and LFO works exactly as I wanted.

I have a small issue with the glide, minimum time is way too long I probably have the wrong cap in there…

1 Like

Hmmm yeah the minimum should be inaudibly short.

Glad you like them, let’s see if we can get you fixed up

What caps did you use?

1 Like

Need to check C5 (220nF) is correct.
I had to put 2x1uF in parallel to make C6 but this is only for the long glide time…
I’ll get it sorted…

1 Like

I built a glide module and attenuverter last week (would have made more but was waiting on parts) and they’re already in my case. I love em!

I only had one minor issue:
I used pin headers instead of wires (similar method to @d42kn355’s pro tip). I also used a cable bus to connect them. I found that just putting them in my case they wanted to push away from the main board due to proximity of other modules/cables. The fix is easy. I just used some zip ties to secure them.

Seriously, thanks for making these. GLIDE!

4 Likes

Confused as what’s going on but I’m glad you like em. :laughing: did you use the faceplate screws?

I’m almost done with first proto of the DUSG which has cv control over glide when setup for it. Although it’s going to be 8 times bigger lol

5 Likes