Eurorack rails: worth it or nah?

I’m getting to the point where I need to build a case for my KOSMO. I like the idea of rails, but maybe they’re unnecessary. What do you think?

They certainly aren’t necessary.

But I’m using them. They do make rearranging easier, and I don’t like the idea of drilling and getting sawdust in my system. Though evidently Sam doesn’t drill, just puts screws in directly, but that doesn’t appeal to me either.

The Performance Filter has non standard hole spacings, so that could be problematic with rails. (You probably could drill new holes in the panel.) Other modules both from LMNC and other people seem to be pretty well standardized.

One other potential pitfall is if you make your own front panels from cut-to-order aluminum, typical tolerances in the US are -0 +1/8", so your panels could be as much as 1/8" too tall. That’s a problem if you use rails with lips like Gie-Tec or TipTop. Less so with Vector rails at least if you allow some slop spacing between one row and the next.

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This is all super helpful. Thank you. The note about the performance filter has me leaning toward no rails (at least at first). I was also concerned with sawdust and moving them around. Maybe I’ll prototype the layout a bit lying it on the ground. When I get something I like - screw all the panels in.

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I think if you plan to shuffle the module positions around then rails make sense but if only once or twice in a while then screw your modules down.
I have an fx bay where I often swap out modules or add special kit temporarily. All held in place with Velcro.

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I’ve been puzzling about what to use for module placement for months, on the back burner, but I’d never seen velcro suggested before. Of course! It’s perfect!

Thank you.

In the sixties my generation was taught that velcro was a spin-off from the space race. It was one of a number of inventions trotted out unconvincingly when people asked how we could justify spending on space. I only recently discovered that Velcro Ltd is a private UK company founded by the Swiss inventor of the original hook and loop fastener, and its origin had nothing to do with research into the problems of microgravity. Though I’m sure the Velcro Ltd people were very happy for the glamorous associations of being known as the space fastener.

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Wikipedia:

A number of Velcro Corporation products were displayed at a fashion show at the Waldorf-Astoria hotel in New York in 1959,[11] and the fabric got its first break when it was used in the aerospace industry to help astronauts maneuver in and out of bulky space suits. However, this reinforced the view among the populace that hook-and-loop was something with very limited utilitarian uses. The next major use hook-and-loop saw was with skiers, who saw the similarities between their outerwear and that of the astronauts, and thus saw the advantages of a suit that was easier to don and remove. Scuba and marine gear followed soon after. Having seen astronauts storing food pouches on walls,[12] children’s clothing makers came on board.[10] As touch fasteners only became widely used after NASA’s adoption of it, NASA is popularly – and incorrectly – credited with its invention.

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Glad I could help. One caveat though. For solid items like DI boxes and heavy pedals the Velcro will give first but even heavy aluminium will bend facing tough Velcro. Just a couple of spots top and bottom or thin with gaps and always use a tool to lever off (don’t use the knobs don’t pull from the middle. Tease it off).
Other methods include gluing small neodymium magnet spots and a metal rail or wood with a couple of coats of ferrite paint.
Do remember that cables are heavy and may rip a module out if not secured. Best experiment; and that’s part of the fun for me. Have fun. Fill yer boots!

A Question to answer is … if its at home and not gigging does it need to be vertical? My very first 4 track studio lived in an old divan that slid neatly under a single bed. Lying flat or at an angle solves many of the mounting issues.

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You don’t want to know what it looks like under my bed, and other than that, unused horizontal space is at a severe premium in my house.

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Also, I’m envisioning how Sam would have to play his modular if it were all horizontal.

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Horizontal isn’t for everyone I’ll admit and a harness can chafe during a long music session.

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He did play it horizontal :slight_smile: :

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One of my first decisions back in January when I decided I wanted to build a modular synth was to buy a 2-metre tall bookcase at a second hand furniture shop. For about £20 I’ve got a lot of rack space, even if I use the lower third of the case for patch cable storage.

This case isn’t going to be mobile, though my modules themselves certainly will be transportable. I will probably improvise other cases as the need arises.

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The modular I’m building is to compliment and accompany my existing guitar synth rig and studio. I’m using small wine boxes in two sizes (30cm x 25cm and 50cm x 30cm internal), tiny! This will allow me to stack, shuffle and separate the units. This won’t be kosmo. I won’t be performing live with it.
I got the boxes on gumtree for free. Most of my parts are salvaged or samples received after months of scrounging.
One case will be a low fi lunetta type collection others will focus on fx and logic.
One will be very similar in function to an organ with an octave core and dividers another a FM sound generator and also some very weird and often mechanical sound generators/controllers.
It’s a pallet to work with and explore.
If I ever get a bigger place the next build would be in an upright piano frame.
Sorry, wandering way off topic. As you were.

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