Hello I think I m not the only one that prefers eurorack format instead of 5U. (for space limitation or other reason)
I would like to discuss about the possible conversion of Sam s modules in eurorack format.
Personally I think a lot of people would buy pcbs or even DIY complete kit.
The conversion would be easy and with some work on the panel graphics and choice of components it could be a good investment.
What do you think about it?
Do you prefer eurorack or 5U? Why?
Take care, stay safe and blip bloop buzz!
Hasnât Sam said that he was considering doing that eventually? (As in, once he finished releasing all the Kosmo formatted modules?) Space is a big issue for me too, but I can understand wanting to finish what you begin.
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Iâve been considering exactly the reverse. Specifically Iâve been thinking about how to use PCBs designed for Eurorack in Kosmo.
Iâve been building Eurorack modules for the past 15 months or so, but lately Iâve been feeling dissatisfied with Eurorack because of its ergonomics. Thereâs nothing about Eurorack that forces one to have small knobs and small spacing between panel components â the height is limited but the width can be as large as needed â but the prevailing attitude in the Eurorack community seems to be ânarrower is betterâ. It does indeed make for more compact systems that take up less space and are easier to transport. But I find the tiny knobs and tight spacings make for a system thatâs hard to use in the way I like to use it, manipulating panel controls in real time. For that reason Iâm seriously considering switching to Kosmo for future builds.
Eurorack to Kosmo conversion is of interest to me because while there are only 4 Kosmo modules available in the LMNC store, modulargrid.net lists 7296 Eurorack modules, 1896 of them DIY. Honestly I donât see why one would want to convert one of the existing in-store Kosmo modules to Eurorack, because there already are tons of Eurorack basic VCOs, VCFs, EGs, and LFOs. Obviously there probably will someday be more idiosyncratic Kosmo modules that donât correspond to anything else on the market. But for right now, I donât see that itâs worth the effort to go in that direction.
Kosmo to Eurorack would have the problem that Eurorack is shorter. You canât use a board more than about 4.5" in the vertical direction. Eurorack to Kosmo of course doesnât have that problem.
In either direction, panel hardware is the other issue: If itâs PCB mounted itâll have inappropriate spacing for the other format, and in the case of jacks, the wrong size. Generally it should be possible to move on-PCB hardware to off-PCB. Then the remaining problem is that very often the on-PCB hardware is used to secure the PCB to the front panel, and now you need to figure out another way to attach it. Sometimes you might be able to keep one or two knobs on PCB and use that to secure it, but it seems itâs something youâd have to work out case by case.
Electrically there shouldnât be any problems, unless itâs a Eurorack to Kosmo conversion for a module that uses the 5V bus, but there are very few of those.
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Whilst I think that a set of Euro Kosmo modules would probably sell very well, and might be an interesting excercise in production from a DIY standpoint, I really donât think there is a lot of point.
If Sam were to put them out himself, thats one thing. They have the âcoolnessâ factor of being Samâs modules and damn right I would be first in line to hand him some cold hard cash. But if I want a Euro oscillator based around a 3340 I could go on Thonk and pick from at least 3 different modules (that I can think of this second, the AI Synthesis one, the ADDAC one and the Thomas Henry boards that I built for mine). Same with filters and envelopes and LFOâs.
The real joy of Kosmo is the fact that they are bigger meaning they are easier to use thanks to wider spacing, and much easier to DIY behind by hand. Converting a Euro kit to Kosmo is also a doddle, thanks to the power standards being the same. Just wire panel componants rather than soldering things like pots and jacks to the board, mount the board on standoffs and off you go. The challenge here is making your own panel, but with some simple tools and a little practice you can easilly get a cool punk aesthetic, or you could go with a PCB based one you design in CAD.
As for which format I prefer, thats a more difficult question to answer. Space for me isnât much of an issue. Iâm in my 30âs with no kids and a house rather than a flat so I have an entire room for my tinkering. I love building my Kosmo synth, its enourmous fun and it sounds and looks awesome now its coming together, and DIYing for it is proving to be a much more pleasant experience than trying to squeeze things behind a 3U panel. Equally though, I love my Euro setup. I canât exactly pick up my Kosmo case one handed and walk out of my house with it, but I can with my Euro case. Not to mention the depth of the available retail modules (I have a soft spot for spending too much money on Make Noise modules and stuff).
Basically what it comes down to is whether its something I can build myself. If I am going to build it myself, its going to be in Kosmo, but if its super funky and comes from a factory Iâll buy in Eurorack. At the very least until I run out of case space anywayâŚ
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My idea about Samâs modules conversion to eurorack is in the form of DIY teaching projects. Do you love what he is doing and want to learn how to do it and maybe learn basics to design own modules in the future? Here it is!
For me the space is a problem because i have tons of hobbies all fitted in one room. I would love to build a eurorack version of the Fart Box⌠I canât build a standalone cause i have already plenty of boxes, controller effect pedals.
I already thinked about moving in a bigger house but its impossible at the moment 
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Fartbox would be one big Eurorack module. I think youâre talking about a Rene and a Maths in combined hp minimum.
Was there a Kosmo rack format version? I thought it was all desktop.
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This sounds good but itâs not clear to me how to use standoffs on a PCB not designed for them. Do you just find clear spaces on the PCB and drill holes through it there? Some boards donât have a lot of clear spaces.
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I prefer the lager size knobs but can appreciate the space constriction some may have. My rule of thumb is if itâs set and forget then small is fine but if youâre performing/playing a module then go as big as you can so you can interact with the music. One day I hope to have a ships wheel on a rotary encoder to output cv to my filters. Samâs format is for performing and simplicity.
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Mount headers where the jacks connect and feed wires to a patch panel.
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Headers would work, as would making a little frame to hold the pcb either out of some thin wood or with a 3D printer (which Sam did for I think some of his Gameboy Mega Machine panels). At the most basic you could just hot glue it to some regular nylon standoffs (so you donât short anything) wherever there is space then screw that whole thing to the panel. Just donât hit it too hard
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Someone should come up with something like this, but for PCBs.
(If I had a 3D printer and the design skills, I would.)
They look pretty neat, but couldnât you just use regular standoffs and washers to clamp down PCBs?
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Samâs been pretty open with his schematics ,resources, ideas . and promoting the DIY aspect of this whole thing . so just do it ! in what ever size / configuration you want . there is free PCB design cheap PCB manufacturing ,strip board etc. . dam we even have people building and making sophisticated synth modules in tin cans and out of ancient test equipment .also I would like to give a shout out to those people here that I absolutely appreciate and learn from, that spend their precious time to share their knowledge with us. thank you ! . so anything is possible , if we just do it .
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