If the only thing connected to the anode is the pot, and the pot is turned all the way down, then the anode should be grounded and the voltage should not come from there. Have you measured the voltage at the diode anode? You could also try connecting the anode directly to ground as a test to see if the 1.5V goes away.
You’ve tried also just disconnecting the diode and verifying there’s no voltage at the output that way?
I mean, either that voltage is coming from the anode, which it shouldn’t if it’s grounded, or it’s coming from something else connected to the output, and there shouldn’t be anything else connected to the output. Grounding the anode is one test, disconnecting the cathode is another. Do they both make the 1.5V go away?
Quick question, I have nearly all of my components in, going off of @analogoutput 's modifications. Thank you for that by the way, the diagram really helped with understanding the circuit.
One thing i’m a bit confused about is power. Could the sequencer be powered with the mini usb jack instead of wiring to the VIN or the 5V pin? that part of the diagram kinda confuses me, relatively new to diy stuff.
There’s a diode from the USB power to the Arduino’s internal 5V rail, so you’ll get a slightly lower supply voltage and max signal level than if you use the correct voltages on the other supply pins, but the circuit should still work.
See here for a bit more on the voltage drops you can expect on the different supply inputs:
Having said that, if you want the full 5V you can either connect +12V to the VIN pin (and ground to ground pin of course) or +12V and ground to a 5V regulator and the output from that to the 5V pin (and ground to ground pin) — not sure the external regulator is really necessary but I plan on using one, external regulators are easier to replace than internal ones should anything go wrong.
I’ll start my build soon! I mean, I have started, I’ve drilled the front panel, but that’s it.
Thank you for all the help everyone. I have some 5v external regulators around, so I think i’ll probably go that route, with something like the microzeus for the power. Long term goal is a case with this, big button, and the wav trigger, so I should probably just put the box header on now rather than attempting to redo it later. Gonna start the panel this weekend hopefully
In the image from the site, it shows the FORWARDS jack connected to SWITCH 1, going to the BACKWARDS CLOCK and the BACKWARDS jack connected to SWITCH 1, going to the FORWARDS CLOCK. Is this an error, or can someone explain the flow on this?
Wouldn’t this mean a signal to the FORWARDS jack would make the sequencer run backwards and vice versa?
Also, if there is a clock signal going to the FORWARDS CLOCK and you use SWITCH 1 to inject 5V to the BACKWARDS CLOCK, isn’t the Nano still receiving both signals? The switch isn’t an either/or, correct?
Not sure of the intention of the labeling; it could be taken to mean if you flip the toggle to the left (which causes the center and right terminals to be connected) it steps forward, which would be correct. Or maybe it means the left terminal is supposed to be associated with the forward jack, which is incorrect. Shrug. If you build it and it ends up doing the opposite of what the label says, turn the switch around.
It’s supposed to be a momentary switch ((on)-off-(on)) and the CV input is supposed to be a trigger, so usually a switch flip and an input wouldn’t coincide, but sure, if you hold the switch in the forward position while clocking the backward jack, the Arduino will read a 1 on both the forward and backward pins. What it will do depends on the code, probably pick one or the other.
Thanks for the response! So, technically the labeling on the drawing doesn’t necessarily matter, but I would assume (and will probably build) the FORWARDS jack going to the FORWARDS CLOCK just because it makes more sense.
So, it seems like the FW/BW switch would just make things a little glitchy and not necessarily in time with the sequence?
I’d say normally the FW/BW switch would not be used when there is a clock on the FW or BW jack. But if it is, it’d add steps forward or backward in between the clock-generated steps.
Ahhh…yes. It wouldn’t make sense to use them at the same time. Ok…makes sense. So, you would just use the FW/BW switch to navigate step by step to tune the pots to the desired CV then?
Hello guys, do you have a template for the front panel of this sequencer ? A friend of mine offered to machine me one, but i dont know how to create a template on my computer. And i can’t even find the drill guide for this module. Sorry if this kind of thing was alrady posted maybe i missed it…
Don’t know of one, I made up my own but for my version which adds several (11, but who’s counting) panel components above and beyond the original.
There’s information on hole sizes at Kosmo Specification (it doesn’t include arcade buttons, I used 1 1/8" diameter). Drill 8 holes in a row for each of two pots, an LED, a jack, and an arcade button per stage and you’re most of the way there. Then you just need 3 input jacks, 3 output jacks, and 2 toggle switches, on the left or right or both sides.
I did mine in software but there’s always graph paper.
Thank you for the quick answer, i will try and do one myself then. I really love your build and the features you added but maybe i will start with the original since i am not very confident in my understanding of electronic schematics… (the video helps me a lot actually to understand what and where to solder)
This might be obvious, but are the forward, and backward jacks meant to be inputs for clock signals coming from other modules? I’m also unclear about what the point of the reset jack is
