They’re for trigger signals. Reset tells it to go to step one on the next clock pulse.
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Thanks that makes more sense
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In fact reset tells it to go to step one now. Zero tells it to go to no step, that is, it sets the output CV and gates to zero. Forward tells it to go to the next step and backward tells it to go to the previous step. (Forward from zero is step one, backward from zero is step eight.)
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Okay, I think I’m starting to get it, although I’m not really sure when you would want to use the zero function. I guess I’ll figure that out once I get it working
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You’d want to use zero to truly reset and prepare to start at the beginning. I thought that’s how reset worked here because that’s how most modern sequencers work.
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Ahh, in that case I’ll probably get alot of use out of that function. Didn’t know that was common with sequencers (you learn something new every day)
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Do you have a link to the rotary switch you used?
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So far I’ve managed to get everything except the buttons working. The only thing that sticks out to me is the red cable connecting the positive pins of the buttons. Should this line be hooked up to anything else like a 5V rail?
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Yes. It doesn’t actually say so anywhere but all the red lines should connect to VCC (the output of the 78L05) and all the green lines should connect to ground.
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Thanks! Hopefully that fixes it.
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This is actually the same problem mine has, and I haven’t gotten around to diagnosing it. I will check those red wires today.
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I just tried it, and the buttons are working now! 
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So I sit down after a day of planning, drilling and soldering and find that I should have allowed for a bloody rotary switch in my layout?! Delighted there’s some more modes for this though, just wish i’d read this page 12 hours ago!
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Has anyone thought about making panel and pcb for this?
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The circuitry that’s not on the panel is so simple, even I chose to use stripboard!
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Sure I get it, just a question.
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any chance we can see how you laid it out? Looking at the schematic with my limited knowledge, I get some of the additions, but some I am not really sure how they work in the real world.
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Not visible here are some Schottky diodes underneath the Arduino. Sorry about wires in the way but you should be able to make it out. Schottky power reversal protection diode on the right, 10 µF cap to its left, then voltage regulator and ceramic capacitor, long jumper from ground down to the bottom strip for two of the sub-Arduino diodes to run to (the other two run to the strip connected to the Nano’s GND pin), a jumper to get the ground (I think) to the right Nano pin. There are some strip cuts underneath but I don’t have a picture.
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thanks, cant say I fully understand but we’re getting there!