I woke up early to finish this before I had to leave for work today. Soldered in the parts I received from Tayda yesterday and hooked it up. So when I plugged it in the lights came on, no smoke. When I plugged the LFO into the input and out from multi into VCO it made a glitching sound and the + of the LFO went solid on. I thought I might have put a chip in backwards, double checked all solder joints and chipped orientation but everything seemed fine. Then plugged it in again and now when you plug it in the top input controls the bottom multi and not the top. It was 4 am here so I could have been half asleep but Iām a early morning espresso, get busy guy. I didnāt have a chance to sort it out since I had to leave for work but thought I would just ask to see if anyone has an idea. My OCD is cranking on it now in my head, it was weird.
When you get a chance, can you upload photos of the back?
Check the tl072 orientation. Thereās very little to go wrong.
Yes, When I get home today I will take a few pictures and upload. Itās probably something stupid and Iām looking right at it but canāt see it. It was all pretty early in the a.m.
Yeah I know thatās why I was asking. Low parts count and easy build so what the #*Ā£Ā„ā¬ could go wrong! Has to be something simple.
One picture says more than a 1000 words. 
Are you building one of the pcb/panel sets, or did you build your own using Samās schematic?
Hey all I fixed the problem, wrong value @ FB1. Thanks for the help!
FB1, the ferrite bead? 10Ohm, piece of wire or nothing at allā¦ What did you have in?
I think it was a 10M? Cant recall now, moved on to the 1007.
Yeah, thatād do it 
Itād do something, but god knows what
I would make sure to always take good note of what went wrong exactly. Learnings will help for future troubleshooting.
hello
I was wondering if this type of circuit would allow you to get more output on an amp?
In fact I have an amp that only has two outputs to connect two speakers but I would like to be able to put 4 or more. With a passive multiplier I donāt think the amp will be powerful enough but this module compensates for the lack of power at the input, no? the question is ācould I use this circuit to multiply by at least two the outputs of my amp and be able to put 4 speakers in itā¦?ā.
thank you for your advice
enoha
No. This is a buffer for low-power synth level signals (connected to high-impedance inputs), not an amplifier (connected to low-impedance speaker elements).
I have a question about FB1 and FB2, which I assumed was āferrite beadā, like in the 1222 VCO. The BOM however says 10R, and of course, Sam says just a wire if youāre not fussy. My understanding of electronics is basic, so I know resistors āresistā electron flow, and ferrite beads have inductive properties at high frequencies, but thatās more āroteā than āunderstandingā. The purpose is to prevent noise coming into the mult, yes? As I can put in either part, which is the best for the purpose? Thanks 
The 10r would āburnā if you have a short in your module. Too much current would flow through and they would/should break (going above their power limit) and protecting your module from further damage.
For me, it is kind of fuse basically.
For the ferrite I am not sure. I used some when i started doing diy modules and stopped as I couldnt find them easily.
Thanks for the quick response. So āferrite bead = RF noise attenuationā and below that range is just myth and misunderstanding, which is why Sam initially labelled them āFBxā on the silk screen, but since nothing in āanalog synthdomā should be in the RF range, now specifies a 10 Ohm resistor on the board and in the BOM. So if you want clean DC power, you just have to buy good power supplies?