This is why I am happy to blame my inexperience rather than a crappy product. I was doing so much soldering and desoldering, I probably got a bit heavy handed. Will be more careful with the next build
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Edit:
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There’s a topic for that:
Thanks - I’ve scrolled a lot through the forum but apparently not back far enough
I just added a link in this wiki FAQ topic Stripboard building
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Hello there! I would like to build a Dual Module with HiHat and Snare like @Doolang did in this post: Verified Stripboard Layouts! - #37 by Doolang
But I’m very struggeling understanding how to connect power (in general)… Here is the thinking progress I made:
- When I have two seperate Stripboards with two seperate powerheaders in the end the power is meeting on my FC Microbus anyways. So I could just use one powerheader on the HiHat and then connect the three rails from there to the Snare ?!
- Then it makes no sense to have all the capacitors again on the Snare layout, because I already have it on the HiHat ?!
- But when I skip the capacitors…the Microbus is also connected to all the other Modules….and…why…what ?!
Here is the idea I had and I have no clue if it works. Can you give me a hint, how I could make it work? Already thank you so much for helping out !!
I am looking forward to learn! Best wishes
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For me i think it’s good in your pic, but wait for confirmation 
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Assuming the connections are short, I’d drop the extra C1 and C2, but keep the others.
(Your combined module probably works just fine without any C1-C4, but 100 nF ceramics cost nothing.)
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Thank you! I was assuming, that the extra capacitors will change something.
Now that I know that the “concept” works, I will build it and try it with dropping extra C1 and C2.
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Hallo, it’s me again!
I love using the two sends of my mackie mixer. I patch them to stompboxes, spring reverb or whatever is around. I like to have the possibility of dry/wet for every single channel. So I would like to build kind of a Matrix Mixer to have more possibilitys like this. Here is what I am planing to do:
I’m trying to combine the buffered multiple (Building a buffered mult - #3 by analogoutput / Verified Stripboard Layouts! - #73 by Dud) with the super simple mixer (STUFF - LOOK MUM NO COMPUTER).
I tried drawing a schematic (for the first time…) and the first row of knobs that goes to FX 1 would look like this:
The schematic of the whole module would look like this (I made a dumb mistake, I changed the multiple to only two outputs and realised afterwards that I will need four. I guess I can do the exact same thing but using a tl074 instead of a tl072?):
Does this make any sense???
I combined six modules, so is there enogh power??? (I’m still not understanding how powering modules works.)
Thank you so much for helping and for sharing all your schematics, stripboard layouts, experience and advices!
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- You don’t need R7.
- As pointed out by Matthew Skala, there’s a problem with the current limiting resistor R8. It’s only 100R to avoid a voltage drop into the next module, but if it gets shorted to 12 V with ~0 V out of the op amp, then you have P = V²/R = 1.44 W power the resistor is supposed to handle; usually the resistors we use are rated for 0.25 or maybe sometimes 0.5 W. So it’ll probably burn up. Make it ~1k, and if you’re using this for 1 V/oct control voltages (I infer you aren’t), put R8 between the op amp output and the connection back to the input.
- If it were me I’d make R4 a pot on the front panel. Then you can lower the mixer gain when mixing three large signals and boost it up when there’s only one signal or three small ones — instead of having to fuss with the three separate input attenuators.
- I recommend a 1k current limiting resistor on the output. (Again, before the feedback connection if 1V/oct is important, or just like R8 if not. In the former case, put a capacitor in parallel with R3.)
- Think about protection on the power rails, diodes for power reversal or polyswitch fuses for shorts or both (or if you must, 10R resistors or ferrite beads).
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Slowly, very slowly, catching up on all the posts I missed when stuck in bed. Just wondered if any of these are now verified?
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It’s all stripboard for my next case, near to be finish
i 'll posted them in “Verified” thread very soon
i’ve quicky test them but not all fonctionnality
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… @Dud , who builds by the case!
I am not worthy!
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Just posting my work on Otem Relliks Teensy 3.2 Drum ModuleV2 (which is on This thread)
Im looking for some input on if ive done this right. have i missed any traces or anything silly?
Otems DrumV2 schem:
My Perfboard layout:
The jacks will have the resistors on the front board (10k, 100k 220)
Some of the wiring will be underboard (such as the +5 for the lower MCP6004)
The slashed jumpers could be solder bridges underboard too
Theres still space for the jumpers to the teensy but visibility is the focus for now =D
Also, There is still space for improvement too.
TYIA.
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whilst im here, this is my first play around in DIYLC and wanted to try something simple
Clacktronics Mono Speaker Schem:
My perfboard Layout:
It too can probably be improved on, but it loks like a small enough board already.
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Maybe it will be good to indicate howmany ohms for the speaker
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I’d imagine 8 Ohms would be the limit.
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ive tried to find that out, it wasnt listed in Clacktronics BOM or the tutorial but as farabide said id say 4-8 ohm would be safe.
ill see what the tutorial says again while i layout the DrumV2 today and update it if i find out.
EDIT: A quick google search of the driver code gave me the specs 8Ohm , 2 W, 70x30mm.
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It’s more or less a bog standard LM386 circuit, and the datasheet speaks of loads from 4 to 32R.