You need this:
I’m also confused now, I believe your switch should be working fine anyway.
I don’t have one of these here with me for a test.
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Just got back from the electronics store with an SPDT On-Off -will swap it out tonight or tomorrow and report back!
I’ll double check the rest of the stuff first though
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Everything works! I must have a bad solder joint or one of my wires shorting - pulled it out of the rack, tested and it works. Best guess is putting it in the rack the wires moved around and something crossed.
Tomorrow morning I’ll pop in the other switch and re-do the wires with a bit of bare metal exposed close to eachother.
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Nice! Congratulations 
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Unfortunately it’s not working again, but I have a sneaking suspicion that with all my soldering, desoldering and removing wires I’ve messed up the stripboard track. Going to start fresh with a new board and see how it goes. It was working though, so safe to say the problem is on my end and not the layout
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This version has the 47k resistor acting as a pulldown on one diode, but lacks pulldowns on the other two.
You notice in the original schematic all three diodes are left of the resistor.
It probably doesn’t really matter, though, since on further thought I realize whatever you’re plugging into likely has something like 100k to ground on its inputs.
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@JonM Since you will only use it as a Sub Oscillattor, you can leave out all the diodes. Put a jumper on the diode that is onboard (D2) and you can remove the resistor (R3=47K) too, no jumper just remove it.
Sounds good!
Could I also remove the switch and just use two separate outputs for -1 and -2 Oct by connecting one to N18 and the other O18?
Perfect 
Yes you can.
Each output can have an independent connector.
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Can somebody take a look at this for me? First time I’ve tried doing anything like this so please excuse if it’s messy or could be done better.
I took the @peternoya layout, took the divisions I want and put them to a mixer from Eddy Bergman.com: Synthesizer Build part-17: MIXER and PASSIVE ATTENUATOR in one.
Should this work? Is there a better way I should do this?
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In your layout, you’ve placed the green jumper joining pins 1 and 2 of the CD4024, so it’s short-circuited.
You can leave the jumper out.
Ah thanks! I believe that’s for the 0-oct which I’m not using but I misplaced it when copying over from your layout. Alright, deleted that, and I’m also told I can get rid of two resistors as I’m not using the inverted out.
Updating the picture in a moment.
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For the sake of my sanity, I’ve walked away from the sub osc with mixer. Run into problem after problem and feel like I’m going nuts. I’ll try again in a couple weeks once the frustration passes
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Thanks! I’ll keep you in the loop if I need a hand but I don’t think I will, or at least not yet. I’m thinking either a short I can’t find or a sketchy copper trace… this stripboard seems to be quite fragile and a couple times I’ve had the trace lift as I was desoldering a component. It’ll be working one time I power up, then the next I’ll get no output and when touching the IC pins with an audio probe, I hear the original signal on all pins, not a lower octave. Thinking I need to start fresh on a new stripboard, but I only have one left and want to save it for something else. Next time I order somewhere I’ll get some more and try again
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Sounds like some stripboards I got on Ali Express once, the ones I’ve gotten from Tayda have been better.
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These are Tayda ones - these to be specific
Could be back luck and I got some crappy ones, but more likely is that I just need to be more careful when working.
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I exclusively use the big chonker tayda stripboards. I dont think there would be any diff, but maybe. I havent had any issues.
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Over the years I’ve had only one crappy stripboard, which had some very fine cuts in some of the copper lanes, they were hardly visible which made debugging the hardware very problematic. Otherwise I’ve used stripboards in some 30 DIY modules from various sellers at aliexpress without any problems.
In my experience normally traces don’t lift unless they get very hot, which they shouldn’t need to be when you are soldering components to them.
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