Had a productive weekend… got a lot of soldering ahead of me…
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Oh past me. You so smart.
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so a little teaser on the project …
thank you analogoutput for the great designs and letting us use or github files !
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Good luck!
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It’s so great when past-you does future-you a solid. I hecking love that guy. Sometimes he’s an idiot, but usually a pretty stand-up dude.
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I realized that I can just take only the effects section of a synth I’m making with Electro-Smith Daisy and a multieffects module is 90% done. Of course, the final touches of getting the effects sound good and controls to have usable range will probably take much more time than the previous steps combined. And I still have big difficulties in actually finishing any projects…
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It only takes one! JFDI accreditation awaits!
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You can have a look at the schematic of the Daisy Patch for that.
I mean like sonically in software, what would be good settings for chorus depth, or reverb feedback settings from 0% to 60% doesn’t seem to do much, so it would be better to have pot control it from 60% to 100% instead of 0% to 100%.
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And you could do that in your software, so that it appears that you use the whole control’s reach using a map() function.
Yeah, I meant that, all ADC-inputs get 0 - 3.3V signal. If it’s only calculating circuit-stuff, that’s easy, but I have to listen to what are the good settings, limits and curvers with real audio. And that’s slow and subjective.
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This is a great idea. But my flat top LEDs have just arrived and I’ve found couple problems.
First, the lead holes are very tight for the LED leads I have. I’ve tried to shove leads through from the outside to attempt to open the hole up, but the leads just tend to bend instead of going in. If someone with more OpenSCAD skills than I have were to make a version of this then the lead hole diameters could be easily adjusted for different printers and LED leads.
Second, even with the holes opened up slightly, it’s really hard to find the holes when trying to insert the LED from the inside. Might be a good idea to put a chamfer on the inside edges of the holes.
I purposely made the holes a tight fit round the wires to minimise light leakage. They were tuned to work well on my Ender 3 Pro, but it should be possible to edit the stl file to enlarge them a bit if your printer makes the holes too tight. This is easy in Blender, but I can’t speak for other modelling packages.
One trick which may help is to put the LED leads through from the outside first - it’s easier to see the holes and you have more control to stop them bending. Once they’ve been pushed fully home a couple of times it shouldn’t be difficult to put them in the right way round. A good light is also helpful so you can see inside the housing to be sure the wires are going into the holes.
Coincidentally, I just printed and assembled another batch of 8 vactrols this morning for an experimental Worng TM Lowpass Gate.
Yeah, I don’t have a way to edit STL files.
I did try enlarging the holes from the outside, but even then I kept bending leads more than getting them in. Once I did get them in and used them to open up the holes a bit, I did manage to get the LED in from the inside, but it took some doing. I have 68 year old eyes so that doesn’t help. Chamfers would.
Both chamfers and enlarged holes would make for more light leakage, but I think that should be addressable after assembly with paint or RTV or whatever. After a career in nuclear physics, where with an egregious enough light leak it’s not that hard to destroy a $1000 photomultiplier tube (never did it, but saw it done), I’d say it should be doable.
I’ve just uploaded a new version of the housing to Thingiverse. The LED and LCD holes are 10% bigger and flare wider on the inside. Hope this helps. Don’t know how long it will take for the update to become visible. I’m sure a good coat of black paint will deal with any light leaks.
My eyes are 69 years old, so I appreciate the potential problems!
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Don’t you have a set of small drill bits and a pin wise ? That’s just like true magic ! 
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That does assemble more easily at least as far as the LED goes. The LDRs haven’t arrived yet so haven’t put a whole vactrol together yet. Thanks!
Added: The LEDs I have are about 5.1 mm high. Is that about what you designed for? By my measurements I’m estimating the inside length of the housing is about 7.4 mm, the 5528 datasheet shows 2.4 mm thickness which together with the LED adds up to 7.5… so the insert might not quite go in all the way…
The LEDs I used are 5.03mm high and the 5528s are about 2.2mm but with a bit more variability. The hole in the inner is 6.4mm deep, but the LED doesn’t go all the way into it, only up to the flange at the base. The combined length of inner plus the LDRs and LEDs I’m using measures 9.4mm, which is the depth of the hole in the housing.
The vactrol housings off my Ender 3 assemble essentially flush - maybe with the inner protruding ~0.1mm if the LDR is one of the thicker ones.
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What is JFDI accreditation?
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I’m pretty sure the “accreditation” part was a joke. In my experience, JFDI stands for “Just F*cking Do It”. It’s kind of a semi-official informal IT/software “development practice” that involves less investment in pre-planning and more focus on getting a product out.
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