Oh yes its kosmo. So how wide is this case then?
And I see you are using multiple FC Power supplies. I’ve always wondered, can I hook up my wallwart to multiple of these power supplies without issues? Mine outputs 1.6 amps.
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Yes you can if you connect them in parralel
just becarefull to the mA of your wallwart power supply
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It’s about 75 cm wide, three Kosmo rows. For now, two of my version of the MFOS wall wart supply run off a single wall wart.
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I finally tracked down the horrible crackling noise my mixer was making, very similar to a scratchy pot.
All i knew was it didn’t respond to any controls so surely it had to be in the output stage.
After reading a forum post about vintage 4558 making a similar noise when they start to fail, i decided to take them out and put sockets in place. I put 5532’s in and now even at full gain it’s almost completely silent 
For anyone wondering, it’s an inkel mx-991. It had an analog delay, and i did a mod to make it feedback.
The input stages are based on the ta7136p amplifier chip, which is also the basis of the boss ds1 distortion pedal. It sounds lovely when overdriven
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The winter of pedal construction continues!
Electric Druid’s Flangelicious:
Cheers
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I really like this, I’ve never seen a spring so little in a reverb before. Do you know how the sound compares to the larger tanks? I have the idea in my time that bigger is better, but maybe that’s not true…
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I think these little blue spring tanks max out at around 3s of delay, but that’s still enough to get a nice sproing going on. I think if you had a much bigger three spring tank you might get a couple more seconds, and it’d probably colour the sound differently. I just wanted a real spring inside rather than the PT2399 based digital reverb that most pedals seem to include.
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Rich,
AO WW Supply build is verified? I was going to get a few made at JLCPCB.
-Fumu / Esopus
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If you’re in the UK(or the rest of the world if you’re willing to pay shipping/tax), I have two of these with a combined bus board for sale here. And yes, they’re verified.
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As it says in the README, and is still true, I haven’t built the latest posted version but it should be fine, the changes from the version I did build are insignificant (the biggest being to correct the hole sizes for the polyswitch fuse leads).
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Sonosus,
I’m in the US. The minimum 5 could be eventually too few so I’m willing to stock up.
-Fumu / Esopus
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Here’s the last of my Christmas break pedal builds - this time 'round a BYOC Echo Royal.
It’s a dual PT2399 based delay with JFET bypass, tap tempo and some delay time modulation.
This one was a pretty difficult build and it didn’t go entirely to plan, probably due to some faulty J111 JFETs in the kit. This lead to the effect always being on and the dry/wet mix not functioning as expected. I had to take it all out of the box as best I can, remove the JFETs, put in some sockets for the transistors and try some J113s I had on hand, which seemed to clean everything up. All a bit tricky and frustrating, but all’s well that ends well.
Cheers
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I’ve been working on the design of the front panel for a SVF. This is a first draft cut from card board. The switches shown are only temporary until I receive the ordered ones.
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Oooh, what does “wobble” do?
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Multi-Filt-O-Matic is my take on the “cover” by Barnaby Walters (Waterpigs.co.uk) of the Bastl Cinnamon filter. The wobble is a way to boost the resonance using a saw tooth wave as explained here:
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Nothing special, a simple 8 channel mixer with passive attenuators. I needed another one because currently I only have a 4 channel mixer and need to use an external one to get all the pads and noises in the mix 
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Clean! The mutes only apply to the master channel? I like that.
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I like that the wiring on the back is super clean but the ‘wiring’ on the front are messy squiggly lines
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With the help of the good people here, I did it! Thanks everyone.
The panel is 3d printed and stained with alcohol makers, gold paint pen, and sharpie.
Used one of those breadboard style protoboards for the circuit and I’m proud to say, I’m now a de facto stripboard convert cuz screw using these again!
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Hmm, no accounting for taste I guess. I find proto boards far easier to work with than stripboard, especially the proto board design I came up with that has three rails each side and the Euro/Kosmo power component footprints.
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