I might have just ordered some more modules from @lookmumnocomputer. Triple Splashback, Mini Mixer and Quad VCA on the way from England to Australia. I can smell the solder fumes already. 
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NEON KOSMO! Love it!
yeah finally the pcbâs have been sitting done on the bench for weeks . for some reason I didnât get the face plates when I ordered the pcbâs guess I figured I would make them . well that didnât happen so I ended up ordering the face plates from Kassutronics which took a while to get here. but they are ready for the rack , as soon as I rebuild those [ the rack boxes ] and finish up grading the power LOL never without a list of to doâs .
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Finally almost done with this monster⊠
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Hi all, I am 99% done with my sequencer on the DFAM clone. I just need to adjust my log pot on the clock as it is doing the opposite of what i want.
I used the simple 3340 VCO design from Sam, and the MS20clone filter to test it (as well as the dual VCA to get the rythm effect) and it already sounds super good.
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Started on a Kosmo synth!
Built a front panel for power just because i wanted the power plug at the front of the box.
3d printed a bracket for the Mini Bus power
And a wooden box for 75cm worth of Kosmo
Itâs birch plywood, i donât want to paint it a colour but wondering what i can paint it with so it doesnât get marked as easy and keeps the same birch colour, some sort of clear coat?
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Polyurethane is probably easiest.
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Beeswax makes a brilliant finish and gives protection.
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I built myself a new case:
- classic black
- 3 x 60cm module space
- double sided (front & back)
- on/off switch with propper cable connection
- off the shelf power supply
- built mosty with pre cut wood from the hardware store and self painted
(edit: typos for everyone)
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built this little box thing as part of a trade
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Poly-acrylic finish works well on birch ply. It is water based, so it has less VOCs than Polyurethane. It is also a more clear finish, so it wonât yellow the wood like polyurethane. It also dries much quicker.
All that said, I prefer a linseed/wax finish, like Tried and True, on my work. My boxes are birch ply with tried and true over milk paint. I prefer finishes that donât try to kill me.
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Ok, no idea what that means. If youâll pardon a DAQ?
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There are both water and oil based polyurethanes.
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Tried and True is a brand of natural wood finishes. I like their original finish, which is polymerized linseed oil (no metallic drying agents added) and bees wax. Milk paint is paint that comes in powder form made from milk casein and pigments for color. Just add water. It is what was commonly used before acrylic paint came on the market. It is more difficult to use, and you have to use it quickly once you mix it, but it creates a more durable finish than acrylic.
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Ah! Thanks.
So the beeswax is like Danish Oil and the powder paint sounds interesting. Iâm off for a Google.
Edit: I like the finish of milk paint and making it is no more difficult than the egg gesso I used to make for canvas. Cheers.
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Iâll have to look at the poly I used, but Iâm pretty pleased with the finish on mine. I didnât do a âfrench polishâ because I ran out of patience.
Wood finishing is a topic that could easily have its own thread - but in my experience getting a really âniceâ finish is a matter of âclimbing the sandpaper ladderâ. Start with low grit numbers and sand everything down, clean off, apply your chosen varnish then go to the next step up like 100 grit and repeat ad nauseum. The more times you do this and the finer you go the shinier your surface will be.
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Always jealous of proper work space.
Now, that clamp shelf needs a piezo pickup!
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