Yeah, that was my worry it’s an AC-DC adaptor and unsuitable for our application ( unless you have a nifty inverter circuit in the mix…)
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im using it for the Befaco which is DC.
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It says HPDL 1414 9428 G on the side of the display.
So I think the type is HPDL 1414.
The number 9428 may be some manufacturing cod, maybe a date like year and week of manufacture?
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Cute looking things. Reminds me of the LED displays in some 1970s pocket calculators.
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Bo…x… I am a sucker for a display, love the bling… will have to get some.
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Even more prototyping gear.
A couple of ice cube trays and a set of graduated cylinders for my ongoing adventures into potting.
The cylinders start at the left at 100 millilitres (about one fifth of a USA pint) and go right down to 5 millilitres which is about a teaspoon worth.
In one cup of the top ice cube tray sits a tl074cn quad op amp with its legs splayed in preparation for dead bug construction. There’s plenty of room for extra passive components and whatnot.
So these two trays together give me the capacity to make 28 mignons à vitrine in one 24 hour curing session. Mass production here we come!
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It’s just a matter of time before you order a vacuum chamber (you might already have a torch). And a pressure pot, for the fast curing resins. And a vibration table, just in case.
And then you get fun pigments and start covering furniture and other household items in resin…
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I’m using resin only for one purpose. It’s pretty nasty stuff and I have parrots and budgies in the house. Avian respiratory systems are far more vulnerable to fumes than ours.
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Components for possible future mignons
50 BC846B transistors. They’re SMD, which I didn’t expect. I suppose I’ll have to find how to make use of them, though possibly I’ll just get some old fashioned through-hole transistors and adjust my design instead.
5 NE5532 dual audio op amps, for stereo audio input and output mignons.
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The potting may make this easier than you think. There should still be 3 pretty obvious connections-you ought to be able to solder (probably solid-core) wires to each connection and run those to the potting edges like any THT component.
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BC8xx is the SMD versions of BC5xx, so you should have expected this 
But as long as they’re SOT-23, they’re not entirely impossible to hand-solder, even if it can be a bit fiddly.
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I’m following an open source Bela Salt schematic so most of the time I’m aware I have to find the through-hole version for the labelled components. Salt is a Eurorack module built around Bela, which is 3V3, so the interface circuits used are good targets for my mignon approach.
The eBay entry through which I ordered these showed a photo of through-hole transistors so I didn’t bother to check. Some of the components they provide through that entry are through-hole so they weren’t being deliberately misleading. Mea culpa. I can’t complain about the prices, though. As @Maxhirez says this could even be an advantage for mignon construction as long as I find out how to solder them.
In Salt the BC846 seems to be used as a switching component in trigger inputs and the like. It translates the scary Eurorack +5V trigger (or whatever nonsense the user connects to the trigger input) into a dainty Bela 3V3.
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Another NOS Vector cage arrived this morning. I’m planning on pilfering the six rails for my next Kosmo case. I already have six and I’ll double them up for three rows of168HP (85CM, more or less).
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Also today, from Anchor Electronics, I picked up some missing components in order to build the ARP 2600 filter that @EddyBergman shared.
- LM3900
- 1% silver mica 470pF
- Pots
- 100 10K resistors (I could have sworn I just bought 160 of them, but they’re running out fast)
- IC puller (because I’ve had enough piercing of fingertips happen to question my IC removal methods)
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I decided to order a few BC546 as fallbacks, though I’ll also try to learn how to solder the BC846Bs while I wait for them to arrive. They’re just transistors and they’re really cheap.
Meanwhile I’m working on the structural design of my vitrines. I have these 3-pin screw terminal blocks for the Eurorack power so I think the best way to build a circuit is to solder stiff, thick wires to the pins so that they form a tripod with the terminal block at the top. The area between the three legs is where all the wiring goes. I’ll have to see whether there is enough room in the ice cube trays for this configuration.
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Be careful with that fancy pants chip! On the board there is a tiny white dot that shows pin 1.
Power up without IC and check pins 4 and 13 which should be your -12 and +12, respectively
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nice repurposing . 
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