OK! So, I found some more things wired wrong, fixed them, and now I have output! Woo!
But gate doesn’t work. Blah.
2 Likes
Check your diodes are oriented correctly. I’d need to look at the schematic to debug it properly. @lookmumnocomputer do you have the KiCad schematic?
Did the gate work before?
2 Likes
I don’t know if the gate ever worked because I had some things wired wrong causing no audio output. I’m basically re-checking every connection on it to make sure I did it right. I’ll keep everyone updated haha
3 Likes
I built my fartbox and i’m not sure if it is working as expected. How do i debug it.
It is my first soldering project and i’m affraid i butcheted it. It made farty sounds once and the leds are lighting up faintly…
Any suggestions?
4 Likes
In particular reflow all your solder joints. Some of yours look like the solder hasn’t flowed all the way through the hole. Don’t be scared to add a little more solder if you think its required.
6 Likes
Turn your attack and release to the left and fiddle with the switches next them.
3 Likes
@Sonosus & @Riggidyboo: thank you for the encouragement i got it working, more solder helped. fiddeling some more with the knobs also helped me to realize that there are silent combinations that make no sound.
As newb i can only post one image. i uploaded some more, a sound demo and the vector-files for my enclosure to my website if anyone is interested.
the box is great i love it… now i’m hooked. i am already looking for the next project in sams store 
6 Likes
Looks great, I love the knobs and the button.
1 Like
I could imagine a side view of the guy on the button in a different posture… 
2 Likes
Yep, I would say the same. If it is more convenient to you, you can solder from the component side of the pcb as well. B.t.w. don’t be afraid to let the solder flow for a second or 2. You will not burn stuff as easily as you expect.
6 Likes
try the tripple APC if its still available as its another non Kosmo and all in one.
1 Like
hello again. sorry for the wot.
@twinturbo: You probably mean the “round apcapcacp” they are not in the shop anymore. I don’t know if there is some b-stock left backstage. I would give it a try. I’m no musician but i like things that make noise and glow. I also only have very limited knowledge about electronics. I’m a developer discovering a new haptic/physical hobby. I like sam’s projects because many of them are hillarious at first but there is more to discover below the surface. I would realy like to have a gameboy triple oscillator but that pcb hasn’t come out (yet) afaik…
i have a few more questions about the f-box:
- I think the knobs are oriented so that if they are twisted outwards the paremeter is increased (e.g. attack vs. release). for the switches down is “on” if there is such thing (e.g. vloo-mode). correct?
- while taking a photo (with a smartphone) i noticed the f-box going silent for a few seconds. I should probably add some tin foil as rf-shield to my wooden box.
- this might be obviously impossible but i have to ask. Is there a way to make the box (optionaly) portable with (rechargeable) batteries and some kind of power-conversion?
1 Like
Hello again.
while trying to use the power supply of the fartbox for my next module (1163 mixer) as described above I damaged my f-box:
- I forgot to add the ground-cable and when i tried to find the right spot to connect ground on the additionaly added outgoing barrel jack i must have fried something pokeing around.
- the regulator D9 got / was unusualy warm after wards
- the LED in the release button is still working but the osc-leds are not and the box is silent
- I desoldered and replaced C4, C5 and the power-cable (J1). the pcb-contact on the positve leg of C4 got lost, can i connect (brideg) the leg of the cap elsewhere to recover?
potentialy stupid question for the uninitiated beginner: the boxs’ power cable has two contacts (+/- @ J1) but to pass on the power to the next module ground gets added where does it come from and where does it go (to ground)?
i don’t think that you have only + and -, you need GND
If you have made the modifications, as you said above, to power the Fart Box with a Eurorack power supply, you have 3 points (+/GND/-)
without the modifications the FB seams to work with AC/AC power supply ( only 2 points)
on Sam web site :
“as for the 12v AC AC power any will work! it needs to be AC AC not AC DC”
and the mixer module need a +12V/GND/-12V DC
maybe some infos about power supply for modules here
correct
i got one of those
-
I removed the modifications because the soldering i did with the wires on the legs of caps was substandart and i paid with the +pcb-contact on C4
-
I started reading about power supplies but it was way over my head. that is why i went with the f-box and the small prefabbed power supply. mains power is too dangerous for my current abilities.
-
I didn’t realize how steep the learning curve, how deep the rabbithole andhow big the LOVE would be…
3 Likes
Yes, the f-box is supplied with 12 V AC power (two wires) which it internally converts into +12 V DC, -12 V DC, and ground (three wires). The latter is what the mixer module needs, not the 12 V AC. +12 V DC is on the positive leg of C4 on the f-box board, -12 V DC is on the negative leg of C5, ground is on the other legs of the same capacitors. Positive C4 connects to the cathode (striped end) of D13, if C4 pad is damaged you can connect there. Unfortunately the schematic isn’t publicly available (you can get it if you’re a Patreon supporter).
4 Likes
Finished my Fart Box!
It’s really fun to find wearied sounds, so unpredictable!
Some issues in mine, not sure if they are mistakes I’ve made in the build or the nature of the device
- can sometimes get into a state where the LEDs stop flashing but it’s still making sounds
- the diet knob at the top seems to stop the dive making sounds unless it’s in a small range
- don’t know what the on/off switch does
- if sync 1 is off it stops making sound too
But it’s such a fun and weird box I’m still having a lot of fun!
10 Likes
lovely case!
- can sometimes get into a state where the LEDs stop flashing but it’s still making sounds
strange! not sure with that one. - the diet knob at the top seems to stop the dive making sounds unless it’s in a small range
the dive knob is the filter cut off. it all depends on the rest ofd tyheknobbs but it should be quite expressive with the farts.what value did you use? was it linear? off the top of my head anything between 4.7-10k linear should be good - don’t know what the on/off switch does
on off I presume is the one top right. that turns on and off the right oscillator from the audio output, if its off it just modulates the other things, if its on it also comes out of the audio path. - if sync 1 is off it stops making sound too
that’s odd! and should not happen, if sync is off, it should be running hmm!
3 Likes
-
LOVE! that case… how did you do it? colseups? - i don’t remember specifics but i thought mine didn’t work as expected but it did. i just didn’t find the sweetspost before my patinece ran out
- there are some combinations that make no or very faint sounds i would fiddle around with it for atleast 10 minutes before takeing action to improve it… trust me
by the dedication that must have went into that beautyfull box you have it running in not time
3 Likes