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These are cheaper, but are the 10 pin variety. I do recall snagging the 16 pins from amazon for cheaper than tayda as well however.

Yes, they have them all :slightly_smiling_face:

I don’t think make-before-break or break-before-make matters here, in either case there will be a glitch in frequency when you turn the switch. If I had to choose, I’d take the break before make in this case as the glitch might be smaller (shorting two adjacent resistors in the divider vs having the opamp input float).

What’s missing from the eurorack power connector illustration above is that pin 1 is at the -12V end.
Pin 1 is usually marked by a different colored wire in the flat cable.
Connectors are polarized to prevent you from plugging the power in backwards which could destroy the module and/or the power supply.

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This is good advise. Ive made my own cables backwards before and that wasnt fun. I just use my multimeter jic.

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thank the gods for shrouded headers. lol

umm… I’ve made my cable correctly and managed to plug it in backwards to a shrouded header.

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how… they’re keyed…

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How does one plug a usb cord in the wrong way?

This is how we find out that @Riggidyboo is the hulk.

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that’s a great list ! thanks for your efforts :+1:

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:muscle: 'll do it :rofl:

I just got stung by customs…

Imported 4 AS3340 from the states fro $21 … About £16… Then charged £12 (£4 customs and £8 Royal mail handling!!)

I am sending forms off to them to dispute this, as I could have had the same from Rome (EU) for a similar price…

Oh well…

Rob

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Ugh, sorry to hear that. I wonder why this happens?

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Wow! Thank you so much @Caustic for all of this information. I really, really appreciate it.

The only thing I wanted to clarify was regarding question #3 that I posted (1nf and 10nf links on the 1222 BOM.) I hear what you’re saying about 1nf = .001uf. I started noticing this when I was looking up parts and bookmarked a calculator/convertor. The thing that I was asking about was on Sam’s BOM for the 1222 because both the 1nf and the 10nf ceramic capacitors have the same supply link to the 1nf capacitor. So I genuinely want to know how you know which type of 10nf ceramic capacitor you need to buy? Which type (Y5P, Y5V, etc…?) Which voltage? I know you put a link for me to a particular one, but how do you know that’s the right one? Is it that you just know from experience which one is needed or did you look at the schematic to know? I’m just trying to understand.

I appreciate your patience as I am sure these are trivial questions. :smiley:

BTW…I put a screenshot below from the 1222 BOM to show you what I’m referring to.

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Here is some 10nf links


https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/ceramic-disc-capacitors/10-x-0-01uf-50v-ceramic-disc-capacitor-pkg-of-10.html

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I think those source links are just typos. The voltage listed for the caps are the voltage rating of a capacitor. A 50v cap can withstand at least 50 volts applied across it. Applying more voltage can cause a short or burnout. You just need enough for what you design. 50v is more than adequate, since most things we are working with have input volts of like 12v. Its good to have a bit of wiggle room though i imagine.

Basically, only worry if the voltage rating is approaching what voltages you are pushing.

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Okay, I understand now. Thank you very much for explaining this.

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For the 1222 VCO, the only capacitor type that matters is the 1nF timing capacitor connected to pin 11 of the 3340, C6 in LMNC’s schematic. To quote the CEM3340 data sheet : “a low leakage, low tempco capacitor such as mica, should be used”. The low tempco (temperature coefficient) prevents the oscillator from going out of tune when temperature changes. The low leakage helps with frequency accuracy across a wide range.

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I have a few more questions if you don’t mind.

  1. Which Ferrite Beads do I need to get for the 1222 and the LFO projects? (Looking for US supplier)

  2. In the video for the filter Sam uses 2 pin molex connectors. I know the picture is different than the description but I’m going off the description here. Do I need to also get the small pins that Sam puts into the housing connector when he creates these? If so, what do I get?

2 pin housing
2 pin wafer

  1. Same question for the 6 pin molex connector housing. Do I need those pins?

Thanks in advance for any information!
nicole