First of all thank you for replying.
Really appreciate it. Also the referrals to manuals for me to check in order to get the issue solved. Well the issue was solved pretty quick. As soon as i grounded my clock input jack, the symbols on the display started to move. Grounding jacks is not always nessesary when trying, but in this case it was nessesary.
Youre right. Iam building the Hagiwo Euclidean sequencer. also in the code hagiwo provided (downloaded ino file) was missing the clock input, so i have added that to and now everything works.
For the 6 outputs, i didnt use 5.1v zeners and 470 ohms resistors, but connected the digital outputs directly to the non inverted inputs of 1 TL074 and 1 TL072,
Making the opamps function as a buffer, and with 1k resistor at the outputs for protection.
Hi, i believe from the top.of my head i saw 2 3.3k resistors going to the oled display. Can you try to increase the resistance? Not sure if this works tho but sounded logical to me.
Easiest way would be to increase the value of the resistor on pin 20 of led driver of that channel. Current value is 4.7k, maybe 10k would be better? Another option is to do it in code, you’d need to rewrite a little bit to get different brightness for each channel.
No worries. I’ve found its good for me to slowly simmer on my projects rather than rush through. I do have some questions though.
About the LED brightness - I did see the part of the code related to brightness but if I understand correctly that one value would adjust the brightness on all four channels. I only need to adjust the brightness of the top array - the one that goes to OUT 1.
If I am understanding correctly I would need to adjust R5 (currently a 10K).
About the expander:
I made my own connector that corresponds to the arduino:
It almost works. The potentiometers on the expander work but nothing happens when I give it a CV. I have the feeling my bad crimping job is giving me issues - the LEDs flicker more than I would like. I am going to try to remake the cable and report back.
The pot and the cv get mixed on the expander, so one working but not the other can’t be related to your crimping. I would check the solder joints on the jacks, and check the opamps.
Hope that helps!
[edit] now I remember the pots are not cv settings, but attenuators. I think the problem is in the wiring of the jacks. Correct me if I’m wrong, but did you wire it into the switch contacts?
New connection wire solved a lot of problems. I think all is running as it should.
I also think r15 is controlling the brightness of only the clock in LED. I keep adding more resistance and have not noticed any difference in the clusters - and I can barely see the clock in indicator flashing anymore XD
I’ve been getting mine here: IC TLC5940 - vanallesenmeer (on my side of the pond, obviously). Keyword to search for is “new old stock”, I wouldn’t trust anyone charging under 10 euros/dollars for these, and definitely no Aliexpress
Yeah I know. It’s on my ever-growing to do list to rework the module with a more available part. For now, the cheapest option is to use the smt version and an adaptor, those are still in production
Thanks. I ordered a few SMT chips. Trying to find a workable adapter for a reasonable price now. Hard to find in the narrow form factor with thermal pad.
I might suggest updating your BOM with the SMT chip. That’s really what sent me down this rabbit hole looking for the DIP package. I never considered there might be adapters in the bag to search for.
