Nice colors 
and
WELCOME!
All sorted then? Quick Fix?
Rob
Ahahah yes. A quick fix indeed.
nice knobs! glad its fixed
same resistor number for each colored led, ā¦ 1k for red , red or did you use different for blue, green and yellow other than the value for red in bom?
I have used same resistors 1k on all leds I have not powered it up yet as I am waiting on power supply I will keep you informed thanks for message
I will built at least one more in near future the sound will be well splashing out on all sides
I did the totally wet mod and I like it a lot. The module is such an unwieldly beast that being able to cut out the incoming signal completely helps me a lot to figure out what is going on.
I just did the completely wet mod to this module. It works so much betterā¦for me. Originally I couldnāt use the module on HI mode. It would squeal and squawk. Now it is much calmer.
going to make this with stripboard, wish me good luck 
ill design a layout (my first attempt) in the next days using Kosmoās schematic
ill probably put in one big board the three pt2399 and then make another for the tl074 ā¦ pots and jacks will be āfloatingāā¦ probably iāll avoid that jack header board thing, not sure, never used yet, dont have, maybe iāll buyā¦
iām not sure i understood this part of the circuit:
what is this?
whatās that 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 on the left?
or is that J1 the counterpart of those header circuit board and header jack board ?:
they have no 9 and 10 legsā¦ whatās the point?
Good luck!
These are connectors. The first image is for the power supply. Look up Eurorack power connector, itās a standard that uses a 10-pin connector block (there ar 16-pin connectors as well but they use the same standard for pins 1-10). What is important that there are the +12V, the -12V and the GND rails.
The second image must be about two identical connectors to connect the two boards (the main PCB and the jacks). Those two are counterparts indeed, jus simply āconnect the linesā in the schem. You donāt need those connectors, theyāre only there for the PCB design.
The two images have nothing to do with each other, donāt connect the power supply to the jacks.
mmh i supposed it was something like that. i didnt get the number of the ground legs, but they are actually 6ā¦ ok
so i can i just consider that thing on the left like this? thatās how i build my connectors usually, with ribbon cables (the one on the right actually):
so those arrow on the right is actually where the circuit should get the Ā±12v from, right?
or is the circuit taking them from the left, from the 10 pins??
I mean is it like this, right?
other questionā¦ instead of the voltage regulator to change from 12 to 5 volts i could just use the +5V pin of the eurorack 16 pin power connector , right? (the other one on the left)
Youāre right! It uses the very same connector.
The colors and rails are right on your drawing but the pins as swapped. 1-2 is always -12V.
You can use the +5V rail from the connector as well if you have those.
The arrow symbols are power āNetsā āLabelsā in Kicad. they indicate where common power circuits are connected, Labels are used to reduce the clutter in the schematic of having lots of displayed interconnected circuits.
Just because it says 12V does not mean it is 12V, ultimatly it depends what power is applied to the āNetā somewhere in the circuit. IN this instance power is feed fro the euro rack connector , so hopefully is 12V -12V and GND respectivly.
yes sure, i swapped it because of graphic to not make a mess
anyway between power and the whole circuit there is first those two legs of capacitors and two resistors, thatās what i wanted to be sure ofā¦so according to what @twinturbo said, when somewhere in the circuit is written that +12 or -12 (or 5v if i use the 16 ping ribbon connector) is needed should i take those after the resistors fb1 and fb2? or should i take Ā±12v directly from the power connector before those resistors?
(sorry for noob questions)
thanks
No noob questions!
Itād better to connect after FB1 and FB2. Although, some may argue that those 10R resistors are as good as nothing (but maybe better than nothing, after all). I recommend reading this post on the forum: Typical module power circuit
I have smoked a few of the 10Ohms. tells me thereās something bad going in the circuit so I like em.
Me too, itās quite good at that.
I finished the 2399 Delay yesterday, but it it is not working properly yet. The output has no delay, and is of lower volume than the input. Furthermore, the LEDs of the second and third delay phase stop working after about five seconds.
As the numbers and values of the components are written in the boxes of the components themselves, it makes it difficult to troubleshoot. Is a detailed picture of the unbuilt PCB available, so that I can easily match the schematic with the components?
Stefan