My two cents is that there seems to be an issue with the feedback somewhere hidden there. I’d check connections and reflow solder around pins 15 and 16 (maybe 14 too) of each PT2399.
Also:
this area seems a little sketchy to me.
I wish you best of luck in this head banging against the wall process! 
i just came back from re flowing and testing, the leds seem to fade in and out as they please with no real order and i still dont get any delay at all. every now and then there is a big pop through my headphones
Hmm do you have the weird noises when you put nothing into the input and then move the big knob all the way to the left?
And: (probably no one else is so stupid like me) have you put it after the vca? I had mine before the vca and wondered for about and hour why my delay was not working xD
i put it at the end of the chain after the vca, no weird noises either
Still no joy 
Ive tried 3 different sellers of the pt2399s and all have the same issue, no delay and the leds flash on and off as they please…its some fancy pass through at the moment lol
if its passing through, and possibly just sounding a little less bright than what’s coming in, definitely check the soldering of the capacitors around the PT2399. maybe turn up the heat on the soldering iron as they go to the ground plane, and if they don’t do make a proper connection it will do what you are saying
Will do, thanks sam 
i reflowed and now it just seems to make things louder, the leds come on more frequent so it must be doing something, that being said ive never seen the led in the far far top left turn on
Try adding CV and turn the time clockwise all the way.
i plugged the vc into an lfo and it just seemed to make all 3 of the delay leds blink together, that top one still doesnt blink and i still dont get any delay from it
Hello,
Building this one today and I only have dpdt on on on switches, you think these will still work instead of the dpdt on on that is in the BOM?
Yes, it will. Top position and middle will be the same, if I remember correctly:)
ah amazing, thanks dude
its been a couple months and it still isnt working…im at a complete loss
This module is absolutely insane I love it
Did you get anywhere? You’ve probably done this already but look at the pinouts and make sure the PT2399s have 5V where expected and the opamp has +/-12V where expected. Make sure the chips are all seated nicely. Maybe try another opAmp. If all the LEDs are coming on and off it seems like the PT2399s are probaly ok but I’m not expert
For me my issues where one dodgy PT2399 (diagnosed because the associated LED wasn’t doing anything), a slightly crap jack panel (I knew it wasn’t my finest work but the test was to check the bypass was working) which I redid for safety and a lack of -12V getting to the opamp (nothing serious, just a shit cable)
Dunno if this helps
Sadly not, the synth has been on hold due to a lack of funds but im hoping this year to get back on it for sure now that i have a sustainable job.
Ill have a poke around with the old module when I get home and give you my findings.
Hi all,
so I have built this one and it didn’t work, which is fine, I love troubleshooting… it is like a treasure hunt with tons of swearings. (Built on protoboard not Sam pcb obviously)
As I am going through the possible mistakeS that I could have made, I got confused with the pin numbers on the potentiometers. (BTW 100% sure that is NOT the reason why I have got no signal)
Does the pin number match the image below ?
Is it then normal for the CV level to be in this direction? Is it not inverted?
The pin numbering you show is what I normally use though it is not universal. As a result, for an attenuator usually I would have 1 at ground and 3 being the signal being attenuated, unless it’s a situation where attenuation makes some aspect of the circuit go “bigger” or “higher”. So without examining the schematic carefully I can’t be sure but RV2 and RV1 look backwards to me.
RV3 isn’t an attenuator, it’s a variable resistor. Again it depends on the circuit but very commonly you want counterclockwise to be 0R and clockwise to be the full resistance, so you either connect pin 3 to pin 2 or leave pin 3 unconnected, as in RV3.
It’s really easy to get a pot symbol backwards in a schematic and (if it’s board mounted) end up with backwards behavior.
(See: Schematics (understanding and drawing them) - #46 by analogoutput )
Yeah ok. For me the CV level, RV2, should be the other way around. It doesn’t matter which way but at least opposite to RV1. I am fine with turning the knob the other way if it means that the module is working 
Edit: I have already found that I used 470nf instead of pf, what a hunt ! 
Edit2: if you do not connect the input jack to the input opamp it doesn’t work… voilà voilà
