#2001 keyboard sequencer

Ahh Cool, I have a limited 1st edition :wink:

may get it finished today, been away for a week ( including my first proper festival weekend )

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restock has left the building! keep an eye out. tomorrow hopefully!

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Not sure if you did send the replacement boards, never arrived but no worries. I found the missing ones in the van, after checking 4 times, I randomly found them, one had wedged itself between hand break and seat, after spotting that I found the other had made it into the battery compartment between the two batteries.

Anyway, all but finished, not tested far and not with a clock but I dependent outputs are OK. Merge is only doing one Bus, I suspect something on the duino may be up as an SMD came loose as I was realigning the headers.

In hindsight, for the female front panel header I think I would use a normal one as there is very little contact with the slimline one.

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Can we use the 10M 1/4 metal film resistors from Tayda? I see the BOM says “for capacitive circuit.” Not sure exactly what that means. Then it calls for a non-capacitive 10M? I’m guessing that the ones at Tayda are the non-capacitive ones.

Does someone have a Mouser or Digikey link to the one I need if this isn’t right, which I’m guess it’s not?

not 100% sure it maters ( hopefully it does not )

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I thought those were supposed to be standard 10m Adjust amount to 20m depending on if touch pads do not work with your hands.

BOM points here

which appears to be bog standard 1/4W 1% metal films, which is what the Tayda link is too.

The note in the BOM about “for capacitive circuit” looks like it’s just to distinguish these 10Ms from the other one, R53. As @Riggidyboo says you’d adjust the value for them, but not R53, as needed to make the touch pads work for you.

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Thanks for the information. :slight_smile:

I guess the BOMs in the zip file download on Sams site have some different information? The BOM I was working from in the folder doesn’t have a link next to these resistors. I just assumed all of the BOMs were the same so I didn’t try opening the others. That link would have been helpful…lol :slight_smile:

The PDF in that zip file is what I looked at, it had the link. It’s a very long link, maybe that messed up something in the format you looked at.

definitely a possibility.

its fine! 10m is fine, the label for capacitive is just in the rare instance someone things they need them to either be bigger or smaller for a different response. they basically tie 10m to 5v, to make a sort of seesaw effect on the analog input of the Arduino, the 10m is massive meaning your finger on the pad is just enough to fluctuate the signal. I just put a label just incase people thought they would do better changing them for bigger or smaller but from experimentation I personally have found in my different setups and different fingers be it connected to people or not connected that 10m is good

so to answer it, any metal film 10m resistors should do just fine

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its back! forgot to tell people

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yeah thats why I popped in the BOM normal female, low profile male, but when I saw you ordered both I was interested to see!!! it works at least!!!

I guess if you decide it doesn’t work the easiest thing to do would remove the low profile male from the panel and put a normal sized one on that side as they do exist, it would save the faff of desoldering the female one

I’m having a strange issue with the sequencer where using the touch pads registers an input on the step to the right of it and plays both steps at the same time:

This happens with touch pads 1-7 (not the 8th). Has anyone else experienced this? I’m not entirely sure where to start diagnosing, if it’s a ground issue, something with the code, etc. I can upload a video later.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

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I had a similar issue with mine, I think with some experimentation with the code, Specifically the “touchthreshhold” Line and seeing what worked best. I don’t think its going to be spot on for the time being as there will be some flickering between steps unless your grounding yourself at the same time as touching the pads (by touching the jacks above works), @lookmumnocomputer mentioned in a earlier post in this thread that this would be fixed in code version 2 :+1:

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Ah, thanks for the info @JoeRoeb ! I had read through the entire thread (or so I thought) and of course I missed your previous post about it. I will try messing with the code and see if I can’t come up with something. :slight_smile:

I’m having same problem, also the switches dont appear to do anything, Any ideas?

@lookmumnocomputer , @analogoutput or anyone else in the know.

Can I use 2k resistors in place of the 1k resistors that go to the LEDs? (R1, R3, R5, R9, R13, R22, R30, R36) I am using some pink LEDs and they are pretty bright. Just need to make sure that change won’t affect anything else on the board.

Also, which resistors affect the LED brightness for the other 4 LEDs (D45, D50, D44, D43)?

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2k or 1k5 should be fine there - you might want to quickly test one to see which brightness you prefer.

D45 is R52 - I think you can change that if you want.
D50 is R31 in series with R56 - it should already be 2k - is it still too bright? In that case you could change R56.
D44 and D44 are a little tricky, I’m not sure I get what’s going on. It looks like they are driven from the arduino, and shouldn’t both be on the same time. But D44 has both R58 and R49 on it, while D43 has only R49 - I guess it depends on the arduino output. Do they have the same brightness already? If so, just change R49.

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I see people using blue leds on this project, do we have to use resistors of different value than red leds want to make them work? Asking for a friend .