I use these
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Yes! Those are the same ones @fredrik had me get and they work perfectly! I just didnât know that there were different sized/types of pins when I initially ordered. I thought a socket was a socket. Lesson learnedâŚone of many 
Thanks for the Amazon link. Iâll hold onto that.
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Are the two DIP sockets different from each other then? If not, I donât know that youâve gained anything with that configuration.
Yes, they are both different types of sockets. The one I soldered fits chips like the as3340 and tl072, etc⌠The Arduino doesnât fit in this socket. The Arduino pins are more square and the soldered socket has round holes. The second socket that I got today that @fredrik recommended will fit perfectly on top of the soldered socket. The Arduino fits perfectly in this new socket too. So I can push all of the sockets together in that photo I posted and get my Arduino on the board that way. I just donât know if by having the second socket in the middle will cause any signal issues. If this is an issue then I will need to desolder the one I initially soldered and replace it with the new socket I got today. I am just trying to avoid desoldering because I really messed up my LFO board by desoldering a socket I misplaced. I donât even know if my LFO will work now so I donât want to have that happen to this board too.
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(I only recommend things Iâve tested myself, so this was just a âmight workâ â but glad to hear it did, so now you can recommend it to others! 
)
Stacking them is a bit of a franken design, but I donât see why it wouldnât work if you get a good connection.
If you feel adventurous and would rather desolder it, itâs easiest to just sacrifice the original socket â use side cutters to cut off the socket pins close to the PCB, and once youâve gotten rid of the plastic bits, heat one joint at a time and push pin & solder out with some suitable tool (toothpicks work, see here). But you can do that later, once youâve finished the rest of the build and tested it.
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Yeah, really no reason to desolder until youâve tried the frankensolution!
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Well if itâs a touring rig that would be one thing, but if you only ever use it in a home studio setting and arenât doing time critical work then even if it does pop out, no harm-just be sure to put it in the right direction. (I burnt 4 ATTiny85s up in an hour a fortnight ago because I kept moving them from the programmer to the breadboard carelessly.)
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I use breakaway female headers. Those closed ones always seem to shatter when I cut them.
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Note to selfâŚFrankensolution did not work. I have since desoldered and replaced with these. Only took 2 hours this time (compared to 3). Iâm getting faster! lol
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Noice n cleeean. Howâs the headers Workin out for ya I might use those more.
If you saw the rest of the board you would take back the âcleanâ commentâŚhaha. My soldering skills still need some work. So far these headers have been the best solution. Easy to cut and no problem getting the Arduino in.
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Naw, Nice work and your joints look great! Thatâs what human-soldering should look like. A bad joint would look like you tried to do it with superglue and a BB gun. The real question is: how is it working? How does it sound?
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nice!!! the headers are a good shout
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If it works, itâs good. 
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This is probably another stupid question, but what is the âlinkâ connector used for and how would I use it?
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The link connector is a Share button by another name.
Oops, I just realised you mean on the VCO. Itâs supposed to be for easily controlling multiple VCOs. I donât think the details of this have yet been published.
itâll be on its way! if you check the schematic on the page youâll see its connected to most of the inputs and outputs. on the to do list this week is to finish the design. basically its 2 modules that go with the oscillators. 1 oscillator driver which connects to the back of 1-3 oscillators to control its control voltage input with a built in simple lfo and portamento and also octave controls over all oscillators. then also there is a mixer module which basically connects to the same oscillators and goes on the other side as a shared mixed output. idea being you make up cables with the same stuff as the power ribbon cables to attach a bunch of the controls to the back of the oscillators. this oscillator driver/mixer set should be out I recon in a month or two, after the midi-cv and delay. and maybe the safety valve and a bunch of other. who knows! lets see what gets completed first!
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(seems the main practical use for the link this far has been to accidentally plug in the power connector there and fry the opamps 
)
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I also did that!! But mine somehow survived!
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lololol.
Yes⌠the Link ended up torturing a couple of us haha.
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