I need little help. Everything is fine except sync input. When I first connected clock from #1007 midimuso it didn’t make any change (clock led is blinking). After some fiddling with toggle switch I discovered that it works only sometimes (not sure when) but when I test continuity with multimeter it looks like toggle switch is fine. And then when it works it just makes some fairly odd curve (checked on DSO) but that could be another story and my misleading expectation and poor knowledge.
Do you have please any advice?
For me the sync is capricious too, not a solution but my trick is to put the Dist pot at 100% before to push the sync switch , it works for me (and after you can choose the Dist form normaly).
This module is the last of the four i bought to this point in time to be finished.
Im so fucking happy that > 2399 & 1114 & safety valve < are making noises !
Thanks to any helpful being in here
The 1145 Vclfo remains, cause im not really sure on how to connect my stereo jack sockets to the 2-Pin Molex Connectors…
Has anybody else also used stereo ones and is interested in sharing a photograph of the backside of his Module ? I cant really pull a great amount of insight from the pictures on sams site.
Having a picture in good resolution from the module(s) how it >should be< correctly would imho be a really great thing.
Not that easy a design modification — from the pictures it looks like components go close to all four edges and there’s not room to lengthen or widen the board enough to accommodate a pin socket. If so you’d have to revise the parts placement, squeezing them closer to make room.
Wiring is certainly slower but not that hard. With the number of jacks here I certainly understand the desire for board mounting, but panel mounted jacks do keep the cost lower and use less solder (especially if you’re like me and solder all five pins allegedly for mechanical strength, not just the two or three actually connected).
I was looking at building the 1.0 stripboard version of this module but, I’m having difficulties reading the values on the components. If someone with better eyes could help me out, or if someone has a schematic I’d really appreciate it.
The Sample & Hold is very cool, and very simple to add it
“here is even more basic as a stripboard layout. People have mentionned pin 11 should be connected to pin 1 instead of pin 2. maybe add a switch for this. pin 11 is the sample and hold pin, better still is you connect it to a potentiometer much like the other controls”
Oh sick I’ll have to do that then as well. Does it matter if the S&H pin is a potentiometer vs a switch? Or are you saying to add a switch to be able to switch from pin 1 to 2?
I am having an issue with my stripboard version of the VCLFO similar to the led issues from earlier in this thread. Everything works (as far as I can tell) except for the inverted (-) led. The non-inverted (+) led works perfectly.
I have maneuvered the trimmer pot as well as used the recommended pot orientations for calibration, and nothing seems to be working. I purely have a negative voltage at the inverted outputs and a negative voltage input into the base of the 2n3904. Specifically, the non-inverted output with the trimmer pot fully CCW goes from 0 - 6ish V and fully CW remains at 11ish V. The inverted output is just… inverted. I’m confused on how the inverted led should even light up with a negative voltage to the base of the 2n3904.
Any help would be greatly appreciated since I’ve created a new dawless jam by whacking my head against my modular . Thanks!
Edit: I was just dumb and used +12V into the trim pot instead of -12V.
)
. Thanks!