1113 Performance Filter

Another question about the Jacks. The link in the filter BOM
TruConnect 3 Pole Box Style Jack Socket | Rapid Online goes to a stereo switched socket. Does it need to be stereo? Also as I am in Australia I am trying to source things locally. I have found some on RS that I think are the same but would like someone else to have a look before I buy a bucket load. Link >>
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/jack-plugs-sockets/9131033

Thanks
Chris

sorry about that! but yeah for future most modules use pretty much the same things, jacks, pots, knobs, resistors etc! so if your planning to build a few I think even Kosmo modules from other designers they share a lot, so even if you buy too many of the right jack sockets for instance they always end up getting used :smiley:

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Thanks Sam. I just found that Mouser have them as well. I think I will get those. Cheers
NYS232 REAN | Mouser Australia

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Deciphering the BOM spreadsheets is half the fun.

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A few of us have used these/

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Hey guys, so after a week of troubleshooting I still can’t get this beast to work :open_mouth:

These are my observations:

When I flick the switch to Highpass mode, I hear the input signal of all 3 inputs. (The level knobs work fine) however when I switch to low pass mode, dead silence…

But!: the resonance and also the frequency pot are basically without function. Just the resonance works as a kind of level pot when I turn it fully open.

The two leds are lighting up brightly during switching the hpf/ lpf selector but remain off in low pass mode and very dim in high pass mode.

Also the frequency pot has 12v at one side and -12 on the other giving the divided voltage at the middle pin

These are the measures I already tried:

All solder joints probably 4 times reflowed

Swapped the Tl074 and the 13700

Measured the input voltages for the two ic’s which where as expected…(just slight differences to 12v like 11.86 or 11.95)

Has anyone a idea of what could be the problem here…? Would really appreciate your help!

Love from Hamburg :heart:

hey up morpheus follow the trace on the board from the middle leg of the frequency potentiometer to where it goes. it sounds like its giving no voltage to the filter circuit. see if there is any voltage or anything with your multimeter on pin 1 or pin 16 of the lm13700. if you look at the pinout you’ll see this is the controlling pin for the lm13700, (search lm13700 pinout) and you’ll see what I mean.

if you are getting nothing on that pin or - voltage. if there is no + voltage on it which I suspect there isn’t then double check these items

R43 this comes from the middle leg of the filter cutoff wiggle it look and see if the solder movses on the other side, this signifies a cold joint this would be the problem.
wiggle q1 and q2 do the same look on the back and see if any of the joints wiggle. if they dot hats the problem!!
R30 and R15 double check those too like above.

check the same with C8 and R18.

make sure pin 12 of tl074 is a good joint

thats everything between the filter cutoff pot and the lm13700

if its still doesn’t work make sure the right transistors are in the holes and are also the right way round.

if still no joy double check R18 is a 470k resistor.

if still no joy swap the transistors with new ones

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Howdy, I just finished assembling my 1113 and unfortunately I’m not getting any audio out of it. The LEDs react when I turn the Resonance and Cut-off pots but that’s about all I can get it to do. I’ve tried all 3 inputs with the switch set to high and low. I’ve refloated every joint multiple times, making sure to use a higher temperature and longer contact time with points that connect to the ground plane. I’ve replaced the ICs, transistors and most of the components on the board. I’ve confirmed there’s voltage on pins 1 & 16 of the LM13700 in case it was something similar to morpheus’ issue above. Does anyone know any more steps I can try at this point? Thank you.

Edit: Sorted, see resolution below.

Need an oscilloscope really and see what’s going into/out the OPAMP.

One of the only modules I believe without the actual schematic on the site.

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https://www.schmitzbits.de/ms20.html

There’s a Kicad file on Patreon, I don’t know if it’s posted elsewhere.

I can’t couldn’t find it for a while. Patreon’s a horrible place to archive stuff.

In the Dropbox folder via the zine zone, under PCB projects or something like that?

So I figured this one out. It was the jacks, I hooked up the wrong legs.


Instead of doing the smart thing and having a good look at the contacts inside it I looked at one and said ā€œwhich two legs do you hook up? Probably the two that are different, they even have little holes in them perfect for running a wire through. Those other legs must just be to hold it in placeā€.
Nope. Not even close…
So I’m thrilled this filter is now working, it sounds awesome.
I spent way more time trying to figure this out than I’d like to admit, I’ll leave this post here on the off chance anyone else ever comes along who needs help identifying this dumb, dumb mistake. I am a plonker! :rofl:

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Huh, weird. I’ve never seen a jack like that before. All mine have all five terminals the same (with holes). I can see how you’d make that assumption, though even with that assumption you’d have to make a further guess as to which way around to make the connection.

Anyway, the terminal on the beveled corner is sleeve, and from there clockwise: Ring switch, ring, tip, tip switch. Normally sleeve connects to ground, tip connects to signal, tip switch to nothing unless some normalization is needed, and ring and ring switch to nothing unless it’s for a stereo signal.

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thats a really interesting version of that jack lol

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Cheers, that’s actually really cool to know, there’s a lot more to these things than I thought.

The jacks are REAN NYS232’s that I got off Mouser. Other than this mishap they’ve worked great in all the modules I’ve built so far.

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Thanks @lookmumnocomputer and all you other awesome nerds :heart_eyes:

I’ll also leave this here as a ā€žsolutionā€œ for my problem in the case someone else runs in to the same misery :stuck_out_tongue:

So I Followed all the steps Sam suggested and measured the voltages. And as he suspected there was no voltage at All on the lm13700… tested all the components which seemed fine.
So off I went ordering some spare Bs558. Now I desoldered everything and had a look at the socket for the 13700 which looked a little messed up after reheating the pads probably 10 times until now… what I found out finally was that I damaged two pads so the copper trace of the pcb wasn’t connected any more…

So i carefully scratched off the protection film over the broken copper trace and carefully soldered a little bridge to the leg of the socket.
After an hour of feeling like a heart surgeon I was finally able to enjoy the sweet sweet madness of the ms20 filter :heart:

One little final question remains:
I didn’t quite understand the resonance preset trimmer… in which direction is it at maximum in which at minimum…? Hahaha I turned and turned but it didn’t seem to make much of a difference….

However thanks all you awesome people

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may i ask when the v2 is coming out, its been out of stock for a little while…i moved my original one to my other box to use with the gameboys so there is an empty hole in my bass line ready to be filled once more :)))

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