So this is intentional?
Yes. No. Maybe. Probably. Who knows?
I always use the Aliexpress standard shipping, it’s the most reliable one.
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No, this is common. At least I’ve seen it a lot. If you buy one or maybe two it goes by the cheapest method but if you bump it up it switches to a different shipping method that costs more. Sometimes it’s cheaper to submit two orders for a single unit instead of one order for two. (I’ve done that and then had the seller send both in one package — so it’s not like it’s impossible to send multiple units the cheapest way.)
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So, just another dark pattern to make it seem cheap. I am tired of this kind of shit.
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Okay, thanks to @TimMJN I will use slider switches now! xD
I think it already looks cleaner, for gate type symbols I will probably steal from metropolis or ryk185. I might even make the whole module a bit smaller horizontally, not that it’s possible, but I need to check if it is then still easily accessible 
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remember to account for the size of the footprint of the switch itself. better to leave enough room than not enough.
It does look really cool though, and quite functional.
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After just comming across the metropolis and seeing how bad-ass it is, I’ll be following this build! Good luck
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Is this too close together? there are 2cm between the faders (center to center). I though it might be good to make this one 15cm wide (okay, it’s 16 currently) and then make the other part with the display and jacks 10 instead of 7.5, so I can fit two more outputs for a second pitch/cv and gate out…
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The bottom space of the panel could be a key for a code for each position on the switches. Then label the positions A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H or 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. It will look less close together if its a code. Big music corporations put keys to their algorithms and functions on their front panels so it’s good enough for them.
-Fumu / Esopus
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the faders on my 16n are 15mm apart and theyre fine, although its a little small if you want to put caps on the sliders.
14 sliders in 20 cm:
No problem with narrow caps.
If the 8 holes across the top are 1/4" jacks that’s a little tight but they’ll fit — how easily you’ll be able to use them might be another question, but at least there’s only one row of them so top and bottom of each plug will be accessible.
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Good to hear, then I will go forward with it. The 8 holes at the top are going to be illuminated switches (HIGHLY_PB6149L).
I will need to check if it all fits on the pcb though.
Next question: How to get from the technical drawing of the switches to the footprint? I know how to make my own footprints, but what values do you use for these kind of holes? The image from the seller is terrible, but I can see that the pins are 1.5mm on the long side and then… 0.4TEK on the short?? THK?? What is TEK/THK? that means 0.4mm? and how much “extra” do you give the holes?
Various sources say THK means thickness.
There’s some discussion here
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/pcb-holes-drill-sizes-and-clearances/
Sounds like adding maybe 0.3 mm.
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I actually have some of these at home, I can perform measurements if you’re missing any.
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I’ve been wrestling with buying switches and similar on the chinese market (without any real skill in the language) and you can usually just go by the pitch of the pins and find something with the same layout and it’ll fit. most of the ones I have dealt with have been 2mm pitch, so searching for ‘1P4T 2.0’ without any more info would find me compatable switches.
I would also add that you should avoid some of the smaller slide switches, I’ve bought some here in China (the AKEYS ones) and they were horribly flimsy and unresponsive, although they were about 5c each so there is that…
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