It’s really coming together!
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Have you tried making some music yet? That’s a good way to steer what modules should be built next…
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I have…though my building skills are far better than my playing skills 
I actually have plenty of ideas on what to build next - just narrowing it down to one and doing it is the tricky part. With what I have currently I can have quite a bit of fun as it is. So it’s not a matter of needing any more modules at this point - it’s just a matter of enjoying the build.
Part of me want to make a few more percussive modules - I don’t need them…but it would definitely open up more options. I also want a better LFO. My simple one works…but doesn’t go as slow as I’d like and isn’t CV controllable. And the 1145 is amazing…but…more than I need for most things I want an LFO for. I have a few ideas for both drums and LFO queued up…just can’t prioritize.
I’ll probably take some time to debug the 3 troublemakers before I build anything new.
But it’s refreshing having it re-organized like this and seeing this much space. I was starting to feel like I was out of space - the second case has me feeling re-energized finally.
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I’ve been thinking deeper about @BlackDeath’s question/suggestion. And I realized the main reason I’m not using the synth more is because I keep putting off the sequencer. Wanting another synth to go with the sequencer was a prime motivating factor in me building the synth.
But the sequencer is just a pain to setup and use right now since I can’t power it off USB anymore. I need to get the sequencer in a case and a permanent power supply for it figured out. It was a bit late to actually try and build anything since my “Shop” is the counters of my outside kitchen in the backyard. Since it’s outside I can’t really make noise after 10pm. So why not review my ideas in CAD. Problem is when I worked on this last I was using OnShape and now I use Fusion360. So I had to export my work and re-import it. Fusion can read SLTPRT files that OnShape exports - but it can’t pull in any history from them. For something simple like this it’s not the end of the world. But if this were a complex parametric design - it would pretty much have to be redrawn.
With a bit of cleanup I had the design in Fusion with everything I had in OnShape which is basically what I’ve built so far only without the outer “Skin”:
The black leg/side is 3D printed, the white panel I cut on my CNC out of 3mm PVC sheet. The inner support board you can see was also cut on my CNC out of MDF, and only slightly visible between the holes in the panel is the PCB - which is what everything else is referenced off of. The PCB itself is pulled from the published design: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=wilba_mb_seq
But before I put the effort into forming the aluminum panel I realized I hadn’t mocked up the MIDI ports. Or the output to the Analog output panel. So I modeled up the MIDI ports and mounted them where I I was mentally planning them…and as I suspected - the shell can’t work as currently designed.
or edge on:
The problem is the edge of IO ports would be parallel with the top of the PCB and backing plate - but not at the same plane as the shell. So even if I extended the top “shelf” of the shell the ports wouldn’t work well as they’d be too far recessed.
I could work around it by adding a PVC or MDF plate across the top that sits flush with the PCB/plate and meets the front panel from the rear instead of the top. But it sure would sacrifice most of the look I liked about my initial design.
I could always mount the MIDI ports out the back. But I want at least some of them to be more accessible.
I considered doing a BIG Cosmo panel (probably two big panels) and just mounting it in in the modular with the analog I/O right there. But…I really want to keep the sequencer separate. And it being so much smaller and lighter it’s nice being able to move it around and mount it places.
I could try and push the IO connectors further up. It may take some kind of mounting plate to pull off though - and I worry about strength on that since midi can take some force to plug/unplug. The i/o boards do have doubled mounting holes for extra support:
I still have to figure out where I want to put the big DB-25 analog out port. I may put it next to the MIDI ports. But I don’t’ really want the big DB-25 plug going up like that. So I’m probably going to have to add some kind of bottom plate to the design and mount it facing out the rear. And if I have that big heavy cord hanging out the rear I may as well have a 110v power cord hanging out there as well so just mount the power supply inside.
Need to put some thought into this today…and hopefully figure it out in time to cut a few sheets of material before it’s too late to make noise.
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Once again a great write-up. @juggle , I do think you should consider copying your posts here to a blog or submit them to a suitable Maker website. They deserve a wider audience
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As to the DIN socket; skip it. As long as the two wires get there. Most of the Dinky boards use a Jack adapter. Use whatever you like … Bluetooth?
If you’re going the whole hog, and I truly envy/admire the approach, can I suggest the addition of a very cheap MIDI file player with an SD card.
Looking forward to the results.
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I actually have a blog…(www.nevermindthesand.com) I just never update it because 1) It’s a pain to keep wordpress up to date and not get it hacked, 2) I don’t get enough traffic to get the feedback I need to make progress on projects - so I tend to post on boards like this when working on a big project. If the project “finishes” then sometimes I’ll do a blog post or an Instructable or something else more public.
You mean the DB-25? It’s pretty important since that’s what connects the sequencer to it’s CV outputs. Or the MIDI Jacks? The 8 across the top are the MIDI In/Out jacks and area also pretty vital 
I don’t really want to go with non-standard connections since all my other MIDI gear uses standard MIDI connections.
The sequencer can function as a MIDI player - and does have a SD card. Though the SD card isn’t easily accessible the way it’s currently built. I have a separate SD card socket to add that can be mounted so it’s externally accessible…but I haven’t got it working right yet. It ties in with the Ethernet jack for OSC which I really want to get working since then I could use an iOS app to emulate a 16x16 Button/Light Matrix until I get crazy enough to build the actual hardware matrix someday. MIDIbox SEQ V4 User Manual --- 16x16+X Button/LED Matrix
Well, did some redesign today and think I have something I can live with for now:
I’m not 100% happy with it…it’s not as sleek at the original design and is quite a bit deeper:
The “case” is made up of 5 pieces of 6mm MDF or 3mm ply. The bottom shelf is 6mm MDF and it along with the two short bottom sections of the case are held in place by slots in the 3D printed edge pieces. The big flat top and back pieces are held in place with 4 M3 screws each…the 3D printed sides have holes sized to accept brass threaded inserts for those. The front panel mounts the way it does currently - just a friction fit on the 4 rack slots. That has fit well enough to keep the legs on for almost 3 years with no case so should do just fine with a case as well. I still have to fill the holes in the sides and mount the power - and eventually the Ethernet and external SD card hopefully. But this should be something I can bang out fairly quickly tomorrow and will give me enough case that I can add the power supply and have this thing ready to use a bit easier.
The final problem…with 2 wall warts and a plug for the sequencer I’m going to have a problem plugging everything in at once in my back room. The only “outlet” I have available to plug projects into is an extension cord that runs behind my desk to the one unused outlet in the room. (and this room has more outlets than any other room in my house since it’s newer construction!)
Oh well…I’ll deal with that later.
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Wow 
I want one! Those 3D renders are super realistic nowadays
Yeah, it amazes me what the built in renderer can do. Even the real time display blows me away. I’m still trying to get a handle on assemblies of multiple parts and how to animate them. With this coming in from OnShape it’s even less organized than most of my designs and those are far from being well organized
The mini drill press I was able to do more animation on since I redrew it entirely in Fusion:
But…I didn’t get to the part I most need to learn which is the gears and the axle and how to define them so I can test them virtually. I know how to draw gears…just haven’t figured out how to setup the components and linkages to make them work right in animations/simulations.
When I get frustrated enough with the drill press I redesign the things I don’t like I’ll look into that. Unless another project comes along that gives me an excuse. I did just find a tutorial on making bevel gears which is something I’ve been struggling with to automate my blinds. With the detail of the SLA printer I should be able to do the gears to interface one of those tiny cheap steppers to open/close the blinds.
The sequencer itself is also well worth building. The cost of the build adds up quick though. And the new 4+ version from midiphy is a nice update: midiphy SEQ v4+, MIDIbox shop, MIDI DIY, Hardware MIDI Step Sequencer, PCBs & parts, MBSEQ v4+, LoopA, Eurorack Modules that I would strongly consider if I started building one now. It’s still almost the same somewhat cramped layout of the v4 - but the buttons are re-arranged re-mapped there are a few more. It also has the track position display added (which I still want to add to mine but can’t decide where to put it.)
The original v4 was built on perfboard - so it CAN be done without a PCB. But the PCB for the v4 layout is available from modular addict and not THAT expensive for how big it is. (It still makes the mega drone seem like the steal it is for sq/in of board per dollar.)
The software is really flexible and was originally designed around building MIDI control surfaces before being expanded into a sequencer (and a couple of synths and various other projects) so adding/modifying control and I/O structures is fairly easy to do.
Oh - and while I complain that it’s cramped…it’s also NOT small - though it can be thin and light. Here it is sitting on top of my first case of Kosmo:
The reason it’s cramped is the 8 columns under each display match sections of the display - so you really need them to line up to make sense. There’s only so much room without more/larger displays. It would almost be fun to try and see if one could be built with separate OLED 1" displays for each location. Not sure if the code could even be expanded to do that to be honest - or what the limit is on controlling that many OLED’s. The biggest problem with that is a lot of things display “full screen” as well so the gaps between the 1" OLED’s night not work very well.
For a lot of things you can use the knobs as selectors (they’re clickable) or sometimes the buttons beneath them. Then you can use the big jog shuttle to adjust your value or work your way though a menu. It’s hard to explain but it’s a really powerful and flexible interface when it clicks in your head.
The control surface itself - Panel/PCB/Backer Board is about 32mm deep. You also have the STM32 Discovery board and the midibox STM32 board that it mounts to but that’s really all you need if you don’t mind doing MIDI over USB. USB will gladly power it too.
My current stand was undersized and the backer board sticks out:
You can also see the panel bending. This 3mm PVC is cheap and easy to machine…but pretty soft, Eventually I plan to replace it with something else - I keep debating between metal or wood. The panel is mounted to the PCB with standoffs…assembling the panel/pcb/backer is quite a puzzle even though (because?) the backer is my own design
All the spacers are 3D printed. That was a serious pain to pull off on my old printer, spacers are cheap but it was quicker to print than order and there are a lot of spacers:
I really like how minimal and light it is right now. But adding some MIDI cords and the RS-232 for the CV outs it’s going to need to be a big bulkier and heavier to keep from being pulled off the shelf.
New side panels won’t be done until I go to bed. Had a broken filament at the beginning and didn’t notice it had stalled for 2 hours.
Anyway…here’s a rough view of the existing controller from roughly the same angle / distance as the front rendering:
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Ok, new legs came off the printer and look pretty good. The don’t “snap fit” to the panel quite as well as the old ones…mostly because the old ones were done on my old 3D printer and weren’t quite as accurate, these being more accurate fit perfect instead of being just a hair tight. Unfortunately in this case that’s not quite what I was hoping for. But with the two pieces being a nearly 6 hour print I’m not in a big rush to redo them with slightly oversized mounting bosses.
Honestly I don’t think it really matters. The panel stays in place pretty well anyway. And this isn’t being tossed around a lot. And when the rest of the case is together it should all hold well.
After I finish my Sunday chores I’ll go cut up some wood and hopefully get this assembled.
Oh - one other thing I did yesterday. Had to hit harbor freight for some zip ties to hand christmas lights…while I was there I noticed that as usual the parts bins were on sale so I picked up two sizes to try getting some of my components a bit more organized:
This had all lived in a 5" deep 10"x7" box. It took me forever to find what I was looking for since I’d have to tear everything out of the box to find a particular value of pot - then put it all back. Now I can see it all at once. I don’t think it’s as efficient for space…but it’s MUCH easier to find parts now. I may pick up a few more and get some of my passives sorted over the next few weeks. Though…I’m not sure it seals well enough for that. These are all big chunky parts that can’t slip between the lid and the sides of the bins when it’s closed (well, except for the one big in the small case that’s spare nuts/washers.) If I started sorting small things like passives into these bins I’m worried that picking them up and carrying them could undo all of my sorting.
But I still have enough big bits to justify at least another of the small cases. And my current organization method is getting way out of hand and I desperately need something a bit more organized so I’ll probably give it a try.
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Made some progress today…not as much as I’d have liked…but had more yard work to do than I anticipated. And I can still make some progress here inside tonight.
I ran into an issue trying to generate drawings from Fusion to work from. Due to how this was imported and assembled I can’t find a way to get projections of the faces. I’m sure there’s something simple I’m missing…but it kept wanting to tilt the piece before projecting it.
Not a big deal, these are basically rectangles - just with some angled cuts on a few of them.
I started with the base plate since that’s where a lot of stuff will mount and I wanted to see how well it fits into the 3D printed sides. It’s also a simple rectangle:
Not bad at all! I had to sand it down a little in one corner because this piece of MDF had a tiny bit of water damage and had swollen up a bit.
I also added the heat set inserts - very glad I did this with how many times I’ve had it together and apart already!
The bottom holds together just fine with no fasteners since the MDF is such a snug fit:
Already the whole thing feels much more substantial…but the top piece will really put it together (or spread it apart…either way it holds it at the correct width!) So next I cut the top piece - I haven’t mounted the MIDI ports yet so no openings for them just yet. I still have time to decide exactly where I want to mount them.
With the top piece cut and roughly sanded I came inside and started figuring where I wanted all the parts to mount. I did the F4Disco board and Analog extender first:
You can’t really tell from the photo…but I marked out their positions…drilled them…then added threaded brass inserts. I still need to print standoffs to to under the circuit boards.
With the boards mounted and the top piece installed it’s starting to get VERY substantial and beefy feeling:
I’m really thinking a wood front with laser etched labels may be the way to go now:
I also mounted the power supply…but need a back panel to mount it’s power jack and switch. But I’m thinking about using a 3D printed insert for that…so…need to think a bit. Also still debating where I want the Midi Jacks. Centered? or off to one side?
Keep in mind…that’s only half of them…there’s another board of jacks to be installed still. So I’ll play with those tonight. The power socket is my big focus though…once that’s finished This should be easier to connect up and actually start using regularly 
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Dude that thing is going to look super pro! You are making it very hard to not get a printer
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This thing is amazing and inspirational.
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Glad you guys like it. The 3D printer is so incredibly useful I honestly couldn’t do a large portion of the projects I take on without it. Admittedly - the first year and a half I spent with a printer just improving the printer took a large portion of my time. Thankfully they’ve gotten much better since then and you get a much better machine for your money now (Plus I have a much more expensive but worth it machine as well.)
So I got the power wired up. But I can’t really use it since the power switch is still free floating. This is about where I want it:
And I don’t really want it parallel with the plane of the back panel, I want it vertical. I don’t want to do a lot of complex woodworking either. I’m still trying to think up a way to get out of cutting those angles and having it look good.
I did decide the two thin strips at the bottom of my design aren’t going to happen…not yet at least. I think I want the bottom open for airflow and those strips would be too delicate to work well I think:
These two pieces:
If I was making this out of sheet metal…I’d probably keep them in. But I don’t think they add enough to be worth the hassle of making.
This is my temporary solution for supporting the power switch:
It’s printing now. I actually made a few improvements in the rendered version after I started the print so I’ll have to do it again. I have to anyway because if it works I think I’ll add a ledge on the right side where the back can attach and this will stay in place to make it harder to get your fingers near the 110v when the back is open.
It’s a tricky design to print. Needs supports in any position. I’m printing it standing up and there’s not much support…with the changes I’ve made to the design since starting the print…there’s even less need for support:
Of course…there are still big gaping fingerholes on the sides. I’m debating re-printing those with a skin…or adding some kind block on them. Maybe just some mesh so you can see inside. I do like the way the front sides feel like a grip, makes it easy to grab in a way that makes sure the panel and PCB can’t fall out even though they’re just held in place with friction.
But I’ve got it wired up and confirmed it still works:
So just waiting for the printed switch older to print.
Started planning the MIDI ports…and ran into a bit of a show stopper. My second Midi I/O board is missing. I thought I had it in the chain not too long ago…but it’s not with the sequencer and it’s parts.
I checked my box of midibox/ucapps projects…and couldn’t find it in there:
(That midibox box has been recently re-organized. It has an unfinished midbox FM synth, a finished but not no longer functional dual SID Synth and part of a control panel for it, a couple of midbox core modules, and a bunch of unassembled I/O modules of various types in boxes/packages beneath the visible stuff.)
Most of the stuff in that box is unassembled…the MIDI board I’m almost certain I had assembled and wired in just a month or two ago.
It could be on my desk…I think it was for quite awhile. But I don’t see it here now:
I really hope it didn’t wind up on the “project bench” it could be months before I find it if that’s the case:
I really want to visualize both of them together before I decide on the location. But…if I don’t find the other midi board in a day or two I’ll just mount this one and get on with it.
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Amazing progress, drama and now a MIDI version of Where’s Waldo!
Keep going!
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There is a possiblity I am mistaken. I may NOT have built the seond MIDI board. Looking through my photos from the past few months I don’t see any with both boards. But I do see myself soldering a MIDI I/O board in Early march when I got my neutron, and then a few photos later the two linked together.
So - I have to assume I built up a MIDI board then because I couldn’t find the other…or hadn’t built the other yet. (I Know I bought two PCB’s.)
I dug back far enough to find a photo of the PCB’s when I got them almost 3 years ago:
Good times (Jan 2018)…that was before I bought the laser and still had access to my dining room table for projects:
But I can’t find any photos of MIDI boards connected up until I got the Neutron. So maybe did only solder up one. I’ll have to give the midibox box a good digging through tomorrow.
But…the power jack holder printed up pretty nice:
The top isn’t perfect…I just bridged it and it had a few strands of filament sagging just a bit. But overall the fit is exactly what I wanted.
I may incorporate it right into the leg…I have to reprint this leg anyway…had an accident with the sander when triming up the top plate.
I like the position…it’s easy to find with my fingers. It does not however block the PS as well as I had hoped it would:
But I still need to widen it so the back panel can mount to it. I also added some screw holes in the bottom so I can be bolted to the bottom plate to keep it straight and sturdy. The wider face with an indent for the wood panel to attach to will help block the power supply - and I can always extend it out a bit more if I decide I want more reason not to get my fingers near there.
Overall I’m calling this a success. The sequencer is together enough I can use it more easily with the modular…even if it isn’t even remotely within spitting distances of being UL/CE approved or really in any way safe yet.
Almost have a new version ready to print overnight…but it’s bedtime and I’m not happy with it yet…so will have to wait another day:
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Why did you not mount the socket/switch horizontally ?
The switch would be in the more natural vertical position.
It would protrude less at the top.
And would “naturally” widen it to cover more of the PSU.
I did consider that. But, I don’t much care for these power sockets being sideways - just feels wrong to me. And I like the way it bumps out since it gives me something big and obvious I can feel without looking at what I’m doing.
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thats a pretty slick looking case . but how you going to stack a dozen
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“Thankfully” I have neither the space or the budget for more than one 
I could probably be convinced to build one for someone else if the price was right, and will gladly share any files I have with anyone who wants to build their own (I’m not organized enough to share as I go…Will bundle it all up when I’m “done”) I’d definitely be willing to print the printed parts and if someone asked really nicely I’d probably be willing to cut the backing plate out of MDF for them.
I would not be willing to cut a panel for anyone right now. My CNC isn’t THAT reliable, Sometimes it has some hiccups and I get some slight miscuts:
(I think this was actually a CAD error - which I then “corrected” by freehanding against the milling bit to “compensate”)
This mistake was entirely my fault. IIRC I didn’t actually think the machine would cut correctly so just tossed some scrap material that wasn’t even big enough up on the table to test cut:
But not only does the panel have to be cut cleanly - it also needs to match the switches/LED’s/keycaps you choose to use. And my panel is designed specifically to accommodate being cut with a 3mm endmill - but at the expense of requiring custom keycaps.
My current caps were printed in ABS on my old printer and then vapor smoothed with acetone. I’m not happy with them. They feel terrible on my fingers and look like half chewed gumdrops:
I’ve done some tests with the resin printer and I can get almost injection molded quality keycaps…but as I mentioned way back near the start of this thread - it takes a good bit of experimentation to find the best way to print them. Once the case is done though I’ll be looking into printing newer nicer buttons.
I’ve also been debating adding a way to support the backplate/PCB without the panel. Right now they just hang off the panel…and with this soft flexible PVC panel that’s really not great since the backplate is where all the strength really comes from.
Oh - and those holes on the back of the backplate:
I don’t actually use all of them. They’re just possible mounting points that exist on the PCB. I went ahead and drilled and countersunk spots for all of them. But I used as few as possible because I didn’t like the screw heads showing on the control panel. Most of them do have standoffs installed on them though to keep the front panel from being pushed in. Eventually on a final front panel I’ll probably bond the standoffs to the front panel once I’m happy with everything.
Right now I’m making most parts by hand other than the 3D printed parts…Which is mostly because it’s quicker and easier than trying to get my CNC machine up and going because of how much stuff is stored on top of it right now. Now that the weather is nice I can get out there and clean out my shop - with the new stairs I installed in April I can also get up to the 2nd floor and clear a lot of stuff out (the stairs broke about 9 or 10 years ago. Since then things have gone up into the attic…but very very few have come back down. It’s WAY overdue for a purge. Hopefully by the time I’m really happy with this case I’ll have the CNC cleaned off enough I can get out there and use it again. (I need to upgrade it as well…but that’s an even bigger project.)
The front panel is the only part that I wouldn’t try to cut by hand. I mean…it’s possible. But I wouldn’t want to do it. If you plan out which holes to use on the backer board it’s not that bad to drill even without a drill press. But the CNC cut backplate is nice.
Despite a lot of parts the build is actually pretty easy. The hardest part is figuring out the cables between the boards Electrically it’s really simple…just big. Mechanically…there are some other case options, a few commercial, most DXF’s designed for laser cutting from acrylic. But I can’t cut acrylic that big with either of my lasers…yet. If you’re not as cheap as me and willing to pay for for a generic box then there are quite a few options you can get cut easily. Time/material/mistakes I’m probably spending more but my final product would cost less to reproduce if I decided to do another.
It’s definitely not a beginner project. But for everything it can do it’s really not that hard of a build. I started it almost 15 years ago before I even moved into this house. Though - it’s current form has very little in common with what I started building back then
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